dead ignition?
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
dead ignition?
OK, I posted this in the Help" forum first, but will target it here as I'd like responses from folks who have one of these trucks. I've put in a bit more info after getting him home (he borrowed his client's car) late last night.
Husband calls last night and says truck won't start - blows fuses (he says the big ones, 30 and 40 amp) and (AND!) he can't get key out of ignition..... I'm thinking maybe the ignition switch is busted and causing a dead short - though this could be just an anomaly (ignition switch is worn and was really hokey with the old key - newly cut "larger" keys work pretty good) and maybe as a separate issue a starter relay or??? He says no loose wires under the hood, and nothing else changed since he parked it at jobsite that morning.
Anybody out there have any good thoughts? Truck is stranded at jobsite for right now. Local dealer is abysmal.... not to mention very high priced. Hubby brought home a fistful of green 40 amp fuses that were popped, says they are in the slot marked "ignition". He also brought home a dead pink 30 amp.... says cab lights etc are still working.
I need to have some ideas - tomorrow I have to get off work, pick up kitty from the vet (she's been spayed), then run for home and grab toolbox and ??? to get out there 40 miles to the truck and try to get her going again - oh, and I DO have the new battery cable set that just showed up! That's going with me, in addition to new fuses and (hopefully) relays, if I can get them.
I do not own a code reader - multi-meter is about as techie as I've ever been. If anybody has had this happen and can shed some light to shorten my OAG experience, I'd sure appreciate it!
Husband calls last night and says truck won't start - blows fuses (he says the big ones, 30 and 40 amp) and (AND!) he can't get key out of ignition..... I'm thinking maybe the ignition switch is busted and causing a dead short - though this could be just an anomaly (ignition switch is worn and was really hokey with the old key - newly cut "larger" keys work pretty good) and maybe as a separate issue a starter relay or??? He says no loose wires under the hood, and nothing else changed since he parked it at jobsite that morning.
Anybody out there have any good thoughts? Truck is stranded at jobsite for right now. Local dealer is abysmal.... not to mention very high priced. Hubby brought home a fistful of green 40 amp fuses that were popped, says they are in the slot marked "ignition". He also brought home a dead pink 30 amp.... says cab lights etc are still working.
I need to have some ideas - tomorrow I have to get off work, pick up kitty from the vet (she's been spayed), then run for home and grab toolbox and ??? to get out there 40 miles to the truck and try to get her going again - oh, and I DO have the new battery cable set that just showed up! That's going with me, in addition to new fuses and (hopefully) relays, if I can get them.
I do not own a code reader - multi-meter is about as techie as I've ever been. If anybody has had this happen and can shed some light to shorten my OAG experience, I'd sure appreciate it!
#2
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Cypress. Texas 77433
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It might be a wiring problem up to the ignition. There are some starter contact issues, but I don't think that would cause your problem. A multimeter can be a great help in finding a short. Have had chaffed wires that shorted on both cars and trucks a close look see can sometimes fine the problem. Ignition lock could have fell apart and be shorting. Not sure how to jump around it. There are not many dealers that I would trust in your area. I lived in North West Seattle for 38 years, then up in Sedro for 4 years.
Good luck and hope it is an easy fix.
Good luck and hope it is an easy fix.
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Thanks Davey,
Infidel already suggested I first pull the plastic from around the column and look for bad wires, and that will be one of the first stops - I've read in various posts here that the ignition lock cylinder will break up and cause problems in the switch - and our is definitely not great. Got a quote from NAPA for the cylinder of $64.99; didn't bother to call dealer as I know they would double that or better. BUT, my local locksmith shop/gun safe dealer (great people!) are ordering in a new lock cylinder for $36 and change that will be here next week.
I still have NO clue where the starter relay is located - schematics from FSM are no help at all there and that's what I have to work with. Guess my weekend is shot down again, as we got to have this thing on the road. Just hope I don't have to do any standing on my head as my poor busted neck can't take that any more.
Wrenching might (maybe?) be more fun if you didn't HAVE to have the stinkin' thing running by Monday!
Thanks again and have a fun weekend!
Infidel already suggested I first pull the plastic from around the column and look for bad wires, and that will be one of the first stops - I've read in various posts here that the ignition lock cylinder will break up and cause problems in the switch - and our is definitely not great. Got a quote from NAPA for the cylinder of $64.99; didn't bother to call dealer as I know they would double that or better. BUT, my local locksmith shop/gun safe dealer (great people!) are ordering in a new lock cylinder for $36 and change that will be here next week.
I still have NO clue where the starter relay is located - schematics from FSM are no help at all there and that's what I have to work with. Guess my weekend is shot down again, as we got to have this thing on the road. Just hope I don't have to do any standing on my head as my poor busted neck can't take that any more.
Wrenching might (maybe?) be more fun if you didn't HAVE to have the stinkin' thing running by Monday!
Thanks again and have a fun weekend!
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