Husband calls and says truck won't start - blows fuses (he says the big ones, 30 amp) and (AND!) he can't get key out of ignition..... I'm thinking maybe the ignition switch is busted and causing a dead short - though this could be just an anomaly (ignition switch is worn and was really hokey with the old key - newly cut "larger" keys work pretty good) and maybe a starter relay or???

Anybody out there have any good thoughts? Truck is stranded at jobsite for right now. Local dealer is abysmal.... not to mention very high priced. He brought home a fistful of green 40 amp fuses that were popped, says they are in the slot marked "ignition". He also brought home a dead pink 30 amp....

I need to have some ideas - tomorrow I have to get off work, pick up kitty from the vet (she's been spayed), then run for home and grab toolbox and ??? to get out there 40 miles to the truck and try to get her going again - oh, and I DO have the new battery cable set that just showed up! That's going with me.

I do not own a code reader - multi-meter is about as techie as I've ever been.

 

I have a 93 so mine is totally different and I don't know much about the 96 but maybe he can try to disconnect the heater grid from the solenoid. Maybe a bad solenoid or grid would blow the fuse...??????? I'm not sure if the heater grid has it's own fuse or uses the ignition fuse.

 

I would look for wires pulled from their connectors under the steering column cover.
If you want to replace the key switch it is available from Napa for around $30

 

I'm going out there this afternoon with tools and stuff, and hoping it's quit raining by then. Plan was to pull all the shrouds and covers etc in the cab and take a look-see, then try anther fuse - and pray.

I DID get my FSM on CD from Geno's last night and was up pretty late reading & printing off pages that my be helpful - but most of the FSM seems to be oriented toward dealer techs with latex gloves and high-tech diagnostic instrumentation, not some old shade tree part time wrencher like me The most helpful part was order of things to look at for "possible causes for a no-start condition". Currently waiting for parts store to open to see if those big relays are available through them.

 

Just for grins, if this looks like more work than I want to do 40 miles from home - how can I jump wire around what to get her started and get home to our shop? Jump to starter, fuel shutoff?? I won't have more than about an hour and a half before it gets DARK....

 

Tie the shutdown solenoid in the up position with baling wire, etc.
Key on, make sure it's in N and jump from the small terminal to the large terminal on the starter motor. It will start, depending on what's wrong some of your gauges may not work nor will the batteries charge.

 

Halfpint, how is the truck doing? Did you get it up and running, or at least get it home?

 

Thanks for asking, Davey,

We opted to have the truck hauled home (over 40 miles on narrow 2-lane, no shoulders and high percentage of STUPID drivers on the route) so I could pick at it in my "free time". HAH!

I pulled shrouds around the column and the lower panels, and really looked at wiring - all appears to be undistrubed bone stock - a LOT of dirt and dust but no messy business. Brake controller was put in with very heavy wiring but is all cut in under the hood - not into the factory harness taps. Pulled the ignition switch, removed and inspected the lock cylinder. It's got a lot of wear, but is intact and still fully functional and the resistance tests are normal on it. All wired into the switch plugs are good. So, buttoned it back up.

I took the opportunity (batteries disconnected) to replace all the battery cables - they were pretty badly damaged by previous owner - the yingyang apparently had no clue that batteries have to be GOOD on these trucks, and he beat, pried, whacked and jump-started the lead connectors into a busted up mess. Got a great deal from ebay on a full set of very good cables (seller is "partsitout" and he is a good guy!) and figured now was the time.

I note there are two oddball wires from drivers side positive battery lug to a pair of little solenoid looking things - I think they are for the intake air heater grid - these wires had a Chrysler part number label, 56019 405, with 16238R under that - and they sure do look like fusible links...... and they are FUNKY, all lumpy and trashed looking......

From here, with freshly charged up batteries, I'm going to try starting in neutral - if it starts ok there but pops the ($3 !!) fuse in park, I figure it's the neutral safety switch. If it pops in either transmission setting, I'll disconnect those air heater wires and try it again. If that's not it, I guess I'm down to the starter contacts.
Please God, let it not be the starter...... I don't think I can lift that bugger to put it back in! I could BARELY reach up in there to put the positive cable on! with the dadburn front diff in my chest and arms threaded between steering linkage.

If I get stymied I guess I have to have her taken in to local shop - NOT dealer - that the wrecker driver recommends as being good guys. I can figure out most things mechanical, and do all of our own facility electrical and trailer wiring etc, but am NOT an electronics person. Don't have time to mess with it anyhow, I have too many hats to wear.

At this point, If I win the Lotto, I'll get hubby a little freightliner for his work truck and I'll keep this Dodge for myself - and get it all fixed up by somebody younger and stronger! Oh, to be 30 again..... (visions of pregnant woman under 51 Chevy one ton doing brakes) Naaahhhhhhh!

 

The park/neutral switch doesn't have power going thru it, so it can't blow your fuse. It is a ground circuit for the starter relay and also for the ecm. I would look more into what else is on that 30 amp fuse circuit.

 

Maybe a stuck relay on the heater grid? I called it a solenoid on my first post.... not enough coffee yet that day.

 

The "fuse" that's blowing is the green 40 amp "fusible link" (plastic box, not wire) in the main box (Power Distribution Center) under the hood. Circuit is labeled as Ign Run 3. There's also an Ign Run/Acc 2 but that's not the one that's blowing.

At $3 a pop, I am not keen on just trying stuff *****-nilly - already bought all of them from two parts stores

Is the stuck relay you mention one of a pair of identical things? FSM has them mounted on battery tray - in this truck they are on the inner fender below the battery, drivers side. The wires coming from Battery positive are 6 or 8 gauge, and go into a much heavier sleeve, wherein resides "bumps", hence my suspicion they are some sort of fusible link wire. One goes to each relay or solenoid or whatever the heck these critters are, then out to the main harness. I'd have to pull air intake to run continuity and see if those wires go to the heat grid.

Hopefully getting closer to the truth of the matter! Thanks, guys.

 

Are you talking about fuse # F2 or # F3?

 

If it is the F2 fuse, that also feeds the ign switch. COuld be a problem in there. I've see more than my share of the melted steering cover! LOL Have you had the recall done for the ignition switch/ blower relay?

 

See, if it is the 40A fuse that I'm betting it is, it actually feeds several other fuses! It feeds the blower motor, power windows and daytime running light module, and park brake switch. I'll still bet money on the wiring at the ignition switch. Here's the recall info on that. If you want , PM me the vin and I'll check and see if it has been done.


Subject


The ignition switch and/or steering column wiring on about 710,000 of the above vehicles may overheat when the blower motor is operated at high speed for an extended period of time. This can cause stalling, loss of blower motor or power window operation, ABS or airbag lamp illumination or a steering column/instrument panel fire.

Repair


A blower motor relay and overlay harness must be installed to remove the blower motor circuit from the ignition switch. In addition, the ignition switch and electrical connector must be inspected for damage and replaced if necessary.

Parts Information


Ignition Switch Wiring Package

Part Number
Description

CBXR8750
Ignition Switch Wiring Package


Each package contains the following components:

Quantity
Description

1
Blower Motor Relay and Overlay Harness

1
Ignition Switch Wiring Pigtail

1
Key Cylinder Retaining Bracket

1
Retaining Bracket Screw

1
Ignition Switch Screw

1
Washer

1
Wiring Clip

3
Push Clips

8
Heat Shrink Tubing

10
Tie Straps


Each dealer to whom vehicles in the recall were invoiced (or the current dealer at the same street address) will receive enough Ignition Switch Wiring Packages to service about 10% of those vehicles.

Ignition Switch Assembly
Part Number
Description

04326622
Ignition Switch Assembly


Each dealer to whom vehicles in the recall were invoiced (or the current dealer at the same street address) will receive two (2) ignition switch assemblies.

Additional ignition switches should be ordered only after inspection determines that replacement is required. Very few vehicles are expected to require ignition switch replacement.

 

No clue! We've only had this truck a couple months - our first diesel. I found ZERO evidence of hot wires in the column bundle, though. I will get home and make double sure which one hubby took out and get back with you - oh, and you have a PM with the VIN.
thanks very much,
Kate