That fuel filter is tough to get to for one, but what is the best way to get the sensor unscrewed off the bottom of the filter? It is on there super tight and cant find a way to get something on it to get it off. Is there some secret to it?

 

I use Channellock pliers for leverage and don't squeeze too tight. Put some grease on the O ring when you put it back together and it will come apart easier next time.

 

Second question, do you change it from the top or get under the truck and go at it from the bottom? I might try the bottom but dont want to smell of #2 the rest of the day

 

I do mine from the top - but it's a lot more accessible on a 1st gen.

I would try very hard to avoid doing it from underneath.

 

It is sooooo easy when you know the trick on '96 and older with vacuum assisted brakes.
Just remove the two nuts that hold the brake master cylinder to the brake booster. Even though it doesn't look like it the whole unit will easily swing towards the driver's side giving you a ton of room to work from above.
Using this trick I find the hardest part is unplugging the WIF sensor.

 

The first time I changed the fuel filter on my 96' wasn't alot of fun. In addition to being tight I also had dryrot fuel lines that caused issues when trying to prime.

I used heater hose to temporarily extend the fuel line to a drain pan. Open the WIF and drain as much as possible. Remove the factory clear line. Disconnect the WIF. Cover the WIF and filter with large freezer or other plastic bag. Unscrew filter and remove the WIF. I never tried unbolting the brakes. Probably would've worked great. I also didn't have ABS and most work was done from above.

 

This is so true.. I did that till i discovered what a fuel filter wrench was

But its not hard to do. First undo the WIF sensor plug, next Remember to turn the fuel filter towards the front of the engine to get it loose tho. What i do, is i get on top of the engine and what not, and in the gap between the air intake hat and that area i shove in a filter wrench. Being careful not the break the water in fuel sensor, i get the wrench under there and just twist it off. Granted my sleeves are 36" long on my shirts and im thin, But with the right tool (filter wrench) i can change fuel filters in no more than 5 minutes...

Rick

 

What kind of filter wrench did you use. I can't get mine behind the filter because its butted up against something. The filter wrench band wouldnt get in between them. Do you have the channel lock type filter wrench or band?

 

I just changed mine 2 weeks ago and I used a band style wrench with a swivel handle that allows it to be used at 90*. I just unplugged the wif sensor and slid it over. To take off the wif sensor I used a large adjustable wrench. I took it out from the top an fished it out under the intercooler line and straight up with no problems.

 

it wasnt too big a deal...i left the WIF line attached to the cannister and just unplugged it at the harness...

my question is though is there any visible indicator that the filter needs to be changed??? i wasnt certain the last time this truck was done...so i did it anyway...the filter that was in there...was black...but that may be normal once it has been used a while...do any of you know how to tell if it IS in need of changing?? thx..vs

 

In my case there were no visible signs it needed to be changed it was a preventative maintanence. I just think its easier on the IP and LP if fuel is flowing freely through filter. I managed to get the band on the filter wrench on the filter finally. There wa s fuel line zip tied to the dipstick tube behind the filter. There was no clearance until I clipped the zip tie. I also disconnected the master cylinder from the booster.....man that gave me all kinds of room to get two hands down there.

 

Here is a link with instructions:
http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/filter/...uel_filter.htm

Best visual indicator that the fuel filter needs to be changed is a fuel pressure gauge. When you see the pressure drop below normal, time to change the filter. Good reason to have a fuel pressure gauge on a 12-valve.