Are you kidding me? How much power is this gonna pick me up? I think while I'm at it I'll try the Washer GSK mod for the 50 cents or less it'll cost me.

So to beef up the tranny, would I be OK with just an ATS Valve Body? ATS VB and Billet TC? Or is there something else I need, because $4K isn't feasible for a while. Keep in mind this tranny has probably <60K miles on the rebuild, but over 240K on the whole thing.

 

Around 275 hp or as Bill said "If you have a stock tranny I give it a month"
If you add a governor washer you will probably take out the lock-up clutch in much less than a month. A stock converter will only hold around 240 hp before you blow through the stall. Engine rpm at 2,800 rpm and transmission rpm at 1,800 is really really tough on the lock-up clutch.
Don't know anything about ATS. I went with Goerend and still smiling 45k later.

 

Thats why I like the lockup switch; switch it in once the TC has caught up with the engine... Problem is my lockup is smoked already anyways. If I'm pulling a hill in town at say 35 or so and I flick OUT the lock up it will gain speed with minimal rpm change..... But once I get up to speed and flick in the OD the lockup doesn't slip anymore

I'm on a very tight budget as a disabled and unemployed former infantry Marine. I'm still fighting for my benefits and I have very little $$$ I was just wondering if a Goerend Single lockup and a trans go VB would hold 100# plate slid ahead, star wheel tuned (not all the way ahead but moved), bigger injectors, possibly DVs, 3k GSK, 16* and a bigger turbo; Schwitzer 3LM-299 off of a DT466(slightly larger non-wastegated exhaust housing 14 maybe 16cm and a 16 fin BW compressor side).

I need to go through the clutch packs and the brake bands too, so does anyone know any good performance sets? I have rebuilt old school 727 transmissions to stock OEM with Transmart parts (we get jobber pricing). I'm sure that Transmart has access to aftermarket HO rebuild kits, but the shop is 40 miles away and most of the time I can't hardly stand up on my own two feet to work on my truck. So, that means I haven't had time to look through our parts books for a 14mm Bosch/Nippendenso 7 hole injector nozzles or anything.

 

i'm looking for everything you said, except 75% of it, haha, just plate and starwheel

 

We're drifting off the original topic, but Needy started it.

A lock up switch will NOT fix a roasted lock-up clutch.
A lock up switch will NOT stop your engine reving to 3,000 rpm and the clutch locking (or trying) because the tranny (PCM) thinks it it at 2,000 rpm.
A lock up DISABLE switch will save the converter clutch from early death.

Sonnax is a great source.

Call Dave 563.778.2719

 

Need:

I had no trouble knocking that screw loose without moving anything around or removing anything on my '97. Trying to get down on top of it is a tight squeeze through the lines, but going in from the side was easy as pie.

 

it can be done with the lines on but if you are having a hard time its easyer to pull them all than to pull them apart and you dont even have to bleed the lines most of the time it will tun a little ruff for a second and then smooth out. If you do take the lines apart put the clamps back on, they are to help with vibrations that can crack them. Know a guy that had to replace 4 becous of it. also get a trans temp guage.

 

So what do you have to do if you remove the lines? You can just start it and you'll be fine? If you do have to bleed them, what's the process for that?

 

I have a trans temp gauge, and if it wasn't in the single digits here I'd have ground the plate and threw some washers in the Gov Springs. I can't wait to jack this pump up!