12 Valve Engine and Drivetrain Talk about the 12V engine and drivetrain here. This is for 1994-1998.5 engine and drivetrain discussion only.

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Old Jan 5, 2010 | 03:54 PM
  #16  
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From: Liberty Hill, Tx
Originally Posted by Diesel Dave2
Opps...My bad....You have a standard Trans....Yes it should have the 215 pump...But to confirm..Post your CPL number loacted on the front cover of the pump..(You will see a whole bunch of specs on this cover).The 215 pumps are really good and don't require as much mods as the 160 and 175 pumps...If its a 215 pump,I'm surprised your not getting heavy smoke with those LC....LC in a 215 will sure get the EGT up there also and are not really recommended for these pumps...Maybe to be safe,you should start with just moving the plate full forward for now.But the gauges should go in at that time...Sorry for the confusion on the pump...
The CPL number is 2023 and the break away bolt on the pump is gone so there has been something done to it at one time. and the smoke is very little. my CR 04 smokes alot more than the 96.
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Old Jan 5, 2010 | 04:02 PM
  #17  
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Congrats...By my check that is the 215 pump everyone wants...If the AFC break away is gone,then someone was in there...Before doing everything you have to remove the AFC and see if it already has a aftermarket plate or stock.Maybe the plate is pulled back all the way to run the LC...LC could run very hot on this pump unless everything was adjusted very tight on the AFC.How is the power????Does it really kick when the tubo lights??
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Old Jan 5, 2010 | 04:13 PM
  #18  
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From: Liberty Hill, Tx
Originally Posted by Diesel Dave2
Congrats...By my check that is the 215 pump everyone wants...If the AFC break away is gone,then someone was in there...Before doing everything you have to remove the AFC and see if it already has a aftermarket plate or stock.Maybe the plate is pulled back all the way to run the LC...LC could run very hot on this pump unless everything was adjusted very tight on the AFC.How is the power????Does it really kick when the tubo lights??
well its nothing like my 04 but it seems to be kinda fast. it just doesn't smoke much which is why i didn't think anything had been done. also it has the stock intake and filter so i need to get a BHAF but cash is tight right now. how would i be able to tell if it has plat work done? i have never seen a stock plate much less an after market
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Old Jan 5, 2010 | 04:43 PM
  #19  
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Wink

Here you go...This should help you out...Here are all the aftermarket plates plus the look of a stock one.
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Old Jan 5, 2010 | 05:15 PM
  #20  
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From: Liberty Hill, Tx
Originally Posted by Diesel Dave2
Here you go...This should help you out...Here are all the aftermarket plates plus the look of a stock one.
ok so what do i need to watch out for when taking and putting back on the AFC never done it. i have seen where people wear latex gloves, is that a good idea? and what about gaskets? level 1 to 10 how hard is it and how long should i take. i have a bit of mechanical skill just always worried about doing things i have never done before.

Thanks,
Eric
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Old Jan 5, 2010 | 06:48 PM
  #21  
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From: Montana
Read this http://dieseldatabase.com/read.php?id=58
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Old Jan 6, 2010 | 03:52 PM
  #22  
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Thanks Bill...I was looking for that link.

Also Eric.....When your pulling your plate...Be very careful "not" to drop any of the two screws holding the plate, into your pump...
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Old Jan 6, 2010 | 05:00 PM
  #23  
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From: Liberty Hill, Tx
Originally Posted by Diesel Dave2
Thanks Bill...I was looking for that link.

Also Eric.....When your pulling your plate...Be very careful "not" to drop any of the two screws holding the plate, into your pump...
ok i think i am going to work on it tomorrow when i get off work. now do i need to wear latex gloves? and is it possible to turn the start wheel too far one way or the other? on the link you out on here what do they do and should i mess with them....the timming pin, governor, high RPM stop, idle stop, idle adjustment lock nut. or should i just do the star wheel and the plate. I don't have an after market plate but i am going to move the plate full forward. also if the break away bolt is gone does there need to be one put in its place?

does anyone run an adjustable plate like this one http://www.parleysdieselperformance....uct/DDP-FPLATE

seems like it would be the best plate for me to run cause i want to add horse and i also want to be able to turn it down and haul.

Thanks,
Eric
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Old Jan 6, 2010 | 06:31 PM
  #24  
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From: Montana
They all are adjustable as much as the parley plate is just by sliding forward and back.

Turn the top of the starwheel towards the engine and it may smoke too much upon acceleration for your liking. Turn it too far the other way and the truck will be a dog on acceleration.

Don't mess with the high rpm stop.
If you slide the plate forward you have to check/adjust the gov arm.
Instructions> http://www.pdrdiesel.com/oldsite/TechLeverAdj.htm

Make sure to slide the AFC cover all the way forward before you tighten it down. I would use four new allan head screws, makes it easier the next time you need to get in.

You will need at least a pyrometer unless you can afford to replace melted pistons. Just sliding the stock plate is enough to raise exhaust temps into the danger zone.

And lastly remember the stock auto tranny and manual clutch are barely good enough for stock horse power. You will be replacing them if you add additional hp.
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Old Jan 6, 2010 | 11:29 PM
  #25  
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From: Liberty Hill, Tx
Originally Posted by infidel
They all are adjustable as much as the parley plate is just by sliding forward and back.

Turn the top of the starwheel towards the engine and it may smoke too much upon acceleration for your liking. Turn it too far the other way and the truck will be a dog on acceleration.

Don't mess with the high rpm stop.
If you slide the plate forward you have to check/adjust the gov arm.
Instructions> http://www.pdrdiesel.com/oldsite/TechLeverAdj.htm

Make sure to slide the AFC cover all the way forward before you tighten it down. I would use four new allan head screws, makes it easier the next time you need to get in.

You will need at least a pyrometer unless you can afford to replace melted pistons. Just sliding the stock plate is enough to raise exhaust temps into the danger zone.

And lastly remember the stock auto tranny and manual clutch are barely good enough for stock horse power. You will be replacing them if you add additional hp.
played with the star wheel tonight at work. will see what it does in the morning. i turned it 15 clicks. not sure if thats alot or not much but i'll see. will do the plate work when i have all my tools to use. the Fire truck is lacking on tools and all mine are in my 04.
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