I was just wondering about "full billet" transmissions. Does this tranny really have all billet parts inside or is it just the input, main, and output shaft? Are there any other weak points of this transmission that need to be replaced? I want to push around 500 hp when im done with engine mods and would like to build my tranny as economically as possible, i am a college student. I am replacing the flex plate and converter when i do my tranny and i have a friend that can put the shafts in for a good price. Any educated reccomendations on what to do are appreciated.

 

Sounds like you are referring to a add/brand , give all details of what your asking to get the best answer ?
There are a number of billet parts available , which ones you need depend on what you want to do with your truck , daily driver , tow , competition , and more info .
There are about 4-5 builder names out there that are mentioned most , I favor Goerends , check out his site for more info .

http://www.goerend.com/

 

well a better question i could ask is... would the 3 billet shafts and a valve body handle 500+ hp and the torque to go with it? my truck is mainly a daily driver and i tow on occation up to 10k through mountains but its all on interstate. im mainly tired of slipping converters but i dont want to break stuff when i get a good converter and put more power down. the guy that did my tranny is used to building trannys for gas motors and he said the converter he put in would handle 900hp but im guessing that would be unlocked in a 1/4 mile run, he called it a "race" converter. when its locked even without a trailer it will slip and it really makes me mad especially after doing a gsk and i cant put it all to the ground!!!! can anyone with 500+ hp let me know what tranny they are running and about how much it costs? or should i just go with goerend and have them do the shafts and ship it to me? they look like a reputable company.

 

If I didn't already work at a transmission shop, I'd ordered one from Dave.

I opted to build mine here because I'm not going to be floggin' it with massive HP.

You can't beat their warranty.

 

I think the strong parts you would need would be a good converter/valve body, clutches, and maybe an input shaft. the all billet refers to most places as a billet input, intermediate and output shaft. I think a few companies have a few more billet pieces they run than others. a built transmission makes a huge difference of holding the power or not.

 

make sure you pay close attention to the planetary gearsets as well!

mine had an aluminum set which I promptly replaced with steel, in the most # of pinions that was available (4 in rear, 5 in the front IIRC)


EDIT!

Be SURE to remove the checkball in the cooler line! From there on out, you'll have to let the engine idle for a minute to charge the converter if you take it out, but if the thing sticks shut....bye-bye tranny...

I don't have to let the converter charge in mine unless I leave it sitting for 2-3 days. A little wait in the morning is cheap insurance.

 

You need to have a sit down with the shop that built your trans , if what you say in your post is what it sounds like , he built a gaser trans with a gasser TQ , the high HP is not the problem , but the TQ , diesels have much more TQ for the HP than gassers , then did he sell you a converter with gasser stall insead of what the diesels should have , lower stall ?
Maybe you can save both of you some grief & get him to install one of Goerends TQ & you pay the difference .
May