I want to set up full manual 4X4 on my 97 2500. What I mean by full manual is I want to have a rocker switch in the truck that controls the front axle disconnect rather than using the vacuum switches on the transfer case. What this woudl get me is 4X4 low but more importantly I could control the engagement of my front axle. My friend Ted brought this up to me. There have been situations where I have shifted into 4 hi and the front axle was slow to engage or the wheels were turned and it engaged with a bang because of speed diffrentail between the two front wheels. If I could engage to front axle before I needed 4X4 I could shift into 4 hi seamlessly.

This article started this line of thinking: http://oldsite.vtlink.net/users/joespond/media/miker2x4lo.htm. Rather than controlling the vacuum that goes to the transfer case if I had the right switch I could apply vacuum directly to the front axle and bypass the transfer case switch altogether.

I need a switch that has one vacuum source inlet that would control two outlets. One of the outlets would need to be open to the vacuum and the other closed to the vacuum with the electrical switch open. When the electrical switch is closed the vacuum would need to be closed to the first outlet and switched open to the second outlet. This way I woudl have the axle disconnected until I flip the switch then I woudl have the axle connected.

Anyone know of a switch like this? Yes, I have seen the Posi-Lock that is offered here: http://www.drivetrain.com/4x4PosiLock.html Ted and I are worried about the cable work hardening and failing over time. Besides, I should be able to find a vacuum switch for less than $231.58.

Bob

 

You should be able to get the posi-lock cheaper. I think I priced it on other sites recently for $180 or less.

I have another option for you...eliminate the cad completely, and you don't have to even get the one piece axle shaft to do it. The cad on my truck didn't work when I bought it, so I just turned the cover with the engagement fork over, so it holds the collar in the engaged position all the time now.

 

Mountain off-road enterprises in Rifle Colorado makes a manual front axel disconnect for several applications. My son has one on his Jeep with a front locker so he can disconnect the drive and still have the transfer case in low range to help him steer better.
Good Luck

 

I have the posi'lock on my 12v. they only thing i dont like is the cable rubs my oil pan a bit. so i had to ziptie it to the axle tube. thus far no problems and easy to use. plus 2wd L is nice when driving in rough pasture

 

Posi-Lok is the only way to go.
I leave my axle locked when it starts to snow and take it out when it starts to warm up.
The 2 low is perfect for backing my 30' camper into tight spots, especially with a 5sp. manual.
I got mine on ebay for $150.00 and it took less than an hour to install.

 

I'm using a setup just like you're talking about in my 2nd gen. I got the vacuum solenoid from Grainger and wired it up to a lighted and covered racing switch from RadioShack. Do a search for me and CAD on the 2nd gen for part numbers. Pretty easy and cheap and works flawlessly....

 

sheriffav8r, I PMed you for info.
Floyd

 

Here's the link to my install:

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=198399

The heart is www.grainger.com part 6jj43 for $41.
Tee off of your main vacuum line (I used drip sprinkler connectors) and run a vacuum line down to the axle. I mounted my solenoid in a plastic box just above the axle to keep grime out of the components. A lighted red covered spst switch is mounted on the transfer lever cover. The vacuum is run to the normally open side of the solenoid and continues to the open side of the CAD (right). Once power is applied to the solenoid it transfers vacuum to the closed side of the CAD (left) to engage 4WD. So far this has been pretty bulletproof and I am happy with the ability to have 2WD LO and engage 4WD whenever I want to.

 

Here's a picture of where I put the solenoid. It is mounted on the right framerail above the CAD in a plastic box.



This is a picture of the covered lighted switch on the transfer case shift lever cover.



You could mount the solenoid up higher in the engine bay but I was concerned with the time lag between activating the solenoid and having it engage. Probably not a big difference, though. I've priced out the whole shebang at about $80 at the most. Also remember to block off the two vacuum lines going to the transmission switch. I just used a single piece of rubber hose pinched in the middle to attach to both ends.

 

I am more oncerne with the valve geeting damaged or shorting with water than the lag due to distance. My truck's stock setup has lines going back to the xfer case and forward again so if my valve is up high in the engine bay it shoudl work fine.

Bob

 

Let me know how it works out....

Jim

 

here is how i did mine. the future plan is to go with a dynatrack free spin kit with lock out hubs and serviceable bearings like they should have done to start with.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ual+low&page=2