94-95 2500s VS 96-97?
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94-95 2500s VS 96-97?
Hi folks,
Looking into a used 2500 4X4....I have learned few things to avoid or look for but there are still few unknown..somebody could tell me?
I believe the 94-95 are rated at 175 HP vs 215 for the 96-97 and 98 12V is this right?
And the difference in power would be explained by different fuel pumps ? The 1996-97-98 (12V) are V7100s and they are the best in terms of durability and reliability compared to the 94-95s wich are referred to as 160s?
How "bad" is the 160 pumps? Are they as bad as the 24V ones?
To check the state of the pumps is it only a matter of hooking up a pressure guage on them and see what's the pressure?
I like bone stock cars and trucks cause reliability and durability issues..but if I end up with a 94-95 ,since I aim towing,I might want to increase the power...how easy (self done) and costly this would be?
BTW are they other important differences between the two groups I am considering out the power?
thanks,
Ron.
Looking into a used 2500 4X4....I have learned few things to avoid or look for but there are still few unknown..somebody could tell me?
I believe the 94-95 are rated at 175 HP vs 215 for the 96-97 and 98 12V is this right?
And the difference in power would be explained by different fuel pumps ? The 1996-97-98 (12V) are V7100s and they are the best in terms of durability and reliability compared to the 94-95s wich are referred to as 160s?
How "bad" is the 160 pumps? Are they as bad as the 24V ones?
To check the state of the pumps is it only a matter of hooking up a pressure guage on them and see what's the pressure?
I like bone stock cars and trucks cause reliability and durability issues..but if I end up with a 94-95 ,since I aim towing,I might want to increase the power...how easy (self done) and costly this would be?
BTW are they other important differences between the two groups I am considering out the power?
thanks,
Ron.
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From: Jeffersonville, Ohio
Ok, you've got some of your info confused...but we'll fix that.
97-98 models have Hydroboost brakes, not Vacuum Boosters. Also some of the 97-up trucks could have the 53 block...which has been know to crack! My 98 has it
94-95 Auto trucks are 160, Manuals are 175.
96-98 Auto's are 180, Manuals are 215
The 160, 175, and 180's pumps are mostly the same...with some differences. The 215 pumps are the big boys of stock pumps, and can get you to 500hp fairly easily...at least easier than the other pumps.
They are ALL P7100 version pumps, equal in reliablity and durability!
The 160's aren't bad, but can take some work for big power...if you want stock or close to it, no problems. They aren't anywhere near as bad as the 24v VP44 style pumps!
Turning up the power to say, 250-275hp is simple and relativly cheap.
Gauges $250-$350 Depending on who's gauges and what you need (auto vs. Manual)
Fuel Plate - $125 Controls the fueling
Governor Spring Kit - $100 Give you extra RPM to get those loads moving
That will get you near 250hp...which is plenty to pull almost anything you'll hook to!
Hope this helps!
Chris
I believe the 94-95 are rated at 175 HP vs 215 for the 96-97 and 98 12V is this right?
And the difference in power would be explained by different fuel pumps ? The 1996-97-98 (12V) are V7100s and they are the best in terms of durability and reliability compared to the 94-95s wich are referred to as 160s?
And the difference in power would be explained by different fuel pumps ? The 1996-97-98 (12V) are V7100s and they are the best in terms of durability and reliability compared to the 94-95s wich are referred to as 160s?
96-98 Auto's are 180, Manuals are 215
The 160, 175, and 180's pumps are mostly the same...with some differences. The 215 pumps are the big boys of stock pumps, and can get you to 500hp fairly easily...at least easier than the other pumps.
They are ALL P7100 version pumps, equal in reliablity and durability!
I like bone stock cars and trucks cause reliability and durability issues..but if I end up with a 94-95 ,since I aim towing,I might want to increase the power...how easy (self done) and costly this would be?
BTW are they other important differences between the two groups I am considering out the power?
thanks,
Ron.
BTW are they other important differences between the two groups I am considering out the power?
thanks,
Ron.
Gauges $250-$350 Depending on who's gauges and what you need (auto vs. Manual)
Fuel Plate - $125 Controls the fueling
Governor Spring Kit - $100 Give you extra RPM to get those loads moving
That will get you near 250hp...which is plenty to pull almost anything you'll hook to!
Hope this helps!
Chris
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Chris,
Yes this clears up few things.The 1996 year sounds like the one to get..no 53s possibility and a bit of extra power.The hydroboost vs vacuum was unknown to me till your infos..was this an improvement at braking efficiency level?Or any other advantage over the older vacuum system?
Ron.
Yes this clears up few things.The 1996 year sounds like the one to get..no 53s possibility and a bit of extra power.The hydroboost vs vacuum was unknown to me till your infos..was this an improvement at braking efficiency level?Or any other advantage over the older vacuum system?
Ron.
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From: Laredo
Add what i have in my sig...
then try the modded guys again
PS theres more to come...Anyways, u cannot go wrong with a 12 valve! thats something we all know in this part of the forum..
Rick
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Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Garrard county, Kentucky
Id say the 160 pumps can make a little power. However, the 160, and 175 pumps are not really good at turning higher rpm's(3k, plus) if you are going to mod that far. Id put a 4k in mine, but it just kinda runs out of umph at 3k. Now, the 180's will pull to 4k, and the 215's are the best. Any of them can very easily be made to tow great. Mine pulls great with no EGT problems. All the 94-98 12 valves were equally reliable.
Eric
Eric
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From: St Augustine, Florida
If you are going to tow and you want a low maintenance rig any of the models cited will work well with minor mods. I have a #5 plate that is a little more aggressive than most but I got it free so the price was right. See sig, all I need now is a 3K spring kit and some exhaust work. Towed 12K to Oregon and back the long way this summer and only had any temp problems on the Grapevine north of LA because I could not keep it rolling due to road work. Blew off a boot twice but will fix that with new boots from Geno"s this next month. The 160 pump works fine and is reliable, as are the others. I guess it depends on which one you can get for a good price, then start making your changes the way you want it set up. A lot of it is a matter of preference and economy versus power for race.
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From: Austin, TX, Toronto, ON
who in the world told u there's something wrong with the 160 pumps?...all of the p7100 pumps are reliable...the internals on the pumps(springs etc) may be a hair different ...so u have more "potential" for high HP with a stock 215pump...but there's a couple of guys here running 450hp on a 160 pump daily
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From: Jeffersonville, Ohio
Chris,
Yes this clears up few things.The 1996 year sounds like the one to get..no 53s possibility and a bit of extra power.The hydroboost vs vacuum was unknown to me till your infos..was this an improvement at braking efficiency level?Or any other advantage over the older vacuum system?
Ron.
Yes this clears up few things.The 1996 year sounds like the one to get..no 53s possibility and a bit of extra power.The hydroboost vs vacuum was unknown to me till your infos..was this an improvement at braking efficiency level?Or any other advantage over the older vacuum system?
Ron.
Chris
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From: Snohomish, WA
These are hydraulic units that work off your power steering pump. It's like using a hydraulic ram to operate your master cylinder. The idea is very simple. They put out enough pressure and volume to make any current brake system stop the vehicle you're driving.
Vacuum boosters put out between 1,000-1,600 lbs of pressure to your brake system. The hydroboost puts out between 2,400-3000 lbs of pressure to your brake system. This is basically giving you the power to stop the vehicle. It's the actual clamping pressure your calipers or wheel cylinders have to clinch onto the rotor/drum.
Hydroboost have a shaft in them that directly operates the master cylinder. So when you are applying the hydroboost you only move the brake pedal 1/16 of an inch before you're applying the master cylinder. We also incorporate a much bigger master cylinder then a stock master on most vehicles. The combination of these two things severely shortens the stroke it takes to make the vehicle stop. The entire full stroke of a hydroboost is only 2.5 inches. You actually come to a full stop in your vehicle within 1 inch of brake stroke. If the booster should fail you get one power brake application. After that it reverts to true manual brakes. Since the shaft directly operates the master cylinder a failed hydroboost is twice as easy to stop then a failed vacuum booster. It will be a hard pedal, but foot pressure will work.
Even though they put out all this pressure they are not sensitive. The pedal feel will be firm, with the more pressure you apply the greater braking force you get. It is something you want to get used too. If you've never driven a vehicle with a Hydroboost, it gives you braking pressure you've never had before.
Vacuum boosters put out between 1,000-1,600 lbs of pressure to your brake system. The hydroboost puts out between 2,400-3000 lbs of pressure to your brake system. This is basically giving you the power to stop the vehicle. It's the actual clamping pressure your calipers or wheel cylinders have to clinch onto the rotor/drum.
Hydroboost have a shaft in them that directly operates the master cylinder. So when you are applying the hydroboost you only move the brake pedal 1/16 of an inch before you're applying the master cylinder. We also incorporate a much bigger master cylinder then a stock master on most vehicles. The combination of these two things severely shortens the stroke it takes to make the vehicle stop. The entire full stroke of a hydroboost is only 2.5 inches. You actually come to a full stop in your vehicle within 1 inch of brake stroke. If the booster should fail you get one power brake application. After that it reverts to true manual brakes. Since the shaft directly operates the master cylinder a failed hydroboost is twice as easy to stop then a failed vacuum booster. It will be a hard pedal, but foot pressure will work.
Even though they put out all this pressure they are not sensitive. The pedal feel will be firm, with the more pressure you apply the greater braking force you get. It is something you want to get used too. If you've never driven a vehicle with a Hydroboost, it gives you braking pressure you've never had before.
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From: Vancouver, BC, CANADA
Might be the case but a vacuum system is sure a lot easier to work on. Adding 1 ton cylinders to the rear brakes makes a marked increase in stopping power as well.
A smaller pumped truck will take a bit more work (money) to make higher HP with but are still more than capable of making respectable power without to much work.
A smaller pumped truck will take a bit more work (money) to make higher HP with but are still more than capable of making respectable power without to much work.
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From: Jeffersonville, Ohio
Chris
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