I just pulled the 5 speed out of my 95 3500 4x4. I need to replace the clutch. What i noticed is the motor in tilted down as far as it will go and the shift tower is up againt the floor pan. I bent the floor pan shifter opening lip up slightly to get the tranny out. It seems like it is going to hit pretty hard on the way back in. I dont want to hurt a new clutch. Whats the best way to get the tranny back in? Cut the floor pan? Some tricks? Any help would be great.

As far as the clutch replacement goes is the centerforce dual friction any good?

 

[QUOTE=nitrousn

As far as the clutch replacement goes is the centerforce dual friction any good?[/QUOTE]

NO NO NO!!

Im sorry to go off like that, but i had a dual friction in my truck before, ur better off with the stocker than that POS for a clutch, they are not rated for high TQ applications like our cummins produce and do not hold up well pulling. I know cause i lost mine while towing an EMPTY trailer after only 15K miles, and a professional installation. There have been some other posts, but seriously centerforce IS NOT the way to go

call Peter at Southbend instead

or if your budget is tighter, put a stocker back in there, it will last longer than that centerforce..

Here is some more readin

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ht=centerforce

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ht=centerforce

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ht=centerforce

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ht=centerforce

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ht=centerforce

Sorry but im trying to stop u from makin a huge mistake...



Tx

 

Ok the centerforce is out the door. Now what about the tranny going in and out as i mentioned above? thanks for the heads up.

 

Make sure its in nutrial , then take the top cover off, I haven't done one of those so this is just generic sugjestion, put a shop rag over the opening to keep the nasties out.

 

Not on this style. I can remove the shift lever so the top of the shift tower is flush but thats it. In order to remove the cover the tranny has to come out or a huge hole cut in the floor pan.

 

I just started the input shaft through the pressure plate on mine & then gradually went up & in, it's a tight squeeze, but if you have a couple of extra sets of hands & eyes it's not all that bad, be careful though I had my clutch disk slip out of place on me twice had to loosen the pressure plate bolts & stick the alignment tool back in, as far as a clutch goes I've had great luck out of my LUK pro-gold, having to switch over to a south bend now that I'm goin to a 6 spd., but the LUK held everything in my sig. even loaded heavily, for the $ I don't see how you can go wrong with the LUK, Dusty

 

How did the disc slip out of place? were you depressing the clutch when trying to get the transmission in? Thats means you have to pull the bellhousing each time to reposition the disc.

 

I guess the input shaft started into the hub on the clutch & then when we moved it around trying to get it to slide on in it must have been balancing some of the weight of the tranny on the end of the input shaft, & caused the disk to slide down just a hair????, still had the bellhousing bolted up to the tranny, just had to lower the transmission & then loosen the pressure plate bolts, it was a pain in the a**, but it finally went in, hope u have better luck, Dusty

 

So you leave the bell on the tranny? I removed my tranny first and then the bell. Maybe thats why i had to go back so far and was up into the floor so hard. I will go to my dealer and take a look in the service manual to see if there is a prefered way to remove it.