notw

New to this forum and have searched through the archives, but still unsure of what to do with my transmission. To start with it still works, it is #4 in this pickup and it has about 80,000 miles on it. It is a stock new trans from Dodge.
Problem:
I used to pull a 4500# 24' 5th wheel camper and was able to get away with babying the trans to get it work. This fall I bought a 28' 9000# 5th wheel and the trans doesn't like it at all. It is very easy to make the tc or something slip and shutter. I don't want to put alot of $ into this pickup but I would like to improve this situation. This is a daily driver and has enough power with the 30hp fuel plate to do what I want it to. I just need to get it to the ground. I am mechanically inclined, but definitely in the dark on at's. Thanks for any suggestions.

CarlJensen

Call Goerend Bros transmission. You can just put in a TC and valve body as I did and pull pretty well with it. Four years and no trouble at all towing a 5ver at about 13K. The tranny must be in good condition to begin with.

http://www.goerend.com/

John_P

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I would suggest a new aftermarket torque converter and valve body at least.
Carl has given you one company here that alot of our Members deal with, namely, Goerend Transmission. But there are others too. Some of them are:
Suncoast, ATS, and DTT to name a few. You can do a web search on them and see what fits best for you.

Good luck.

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John_P

Lil Dog

The problem with the new tranny may be as simple as the TPS not being adjusted properly. That would cause some of the problems you speak of. I have a hard time thinking you would have a problem with a fresh tranny out of the box.

patdaly

I didn't think the RH used a TPS signal, am I mistaken?

Lil Dog

It does for lockup..I just went through this with my Father-in-laws 95.. The TPS made a huge difference, but eventually after 300,000km (187500mi) it would slip in every gear.

infidel

It sure does.
Adjustment/testing instructions http://dodgeram.org/tech/transmissio...TPS_adjust.htm

notw

Thanks for the help guys. The trany was a new one from Dodge 80,000 miles ago. I just posted that info so it was known that it hadn't been rebuilt or changed in anyway. Yes it does have a TPS and I have set it to lockup at 48mph. The trans acts the same as it always has without a heavy load.
So hopefully I can get away with upgrading the TC and the valve body? Do these units come with good instructions or should I take it to a tranny shop? Thanks again.

Troutstrannysvc

If you where to pull the transmission to put a TC in it I would highly recommend getting it gone through and see how the clutches are and make sure someone cleans out the govener. You are not looking at a high cost to put new clutches/steels... Its just my opinion but I would highly suggest it.. It wouldn't be pricey unless hard parts need replacing..
I would also invest in a good tranny cooler & gauge these are key to survival.
And yes, a TC and a VB will help you for what you're doing!

1workinman

This is the #4 transmission and has 80k miles on it. The problem as I see it is oil pressure and T/C fluid coupling efficiency. If you start off with low throttle and let the transmission auto shift, what you end up with is a huge drop in rpms when the converter lockup happens in forth gear. The only way that I know of with a stock transmission is to lock out the overdrive, manual shift and let off the throttle each time. Bring up the rpms each time to land the shift close to the 750 rpms that you will have in the next gear. With 3.54 or whatever it is makes is harder on the automatic than 4.1. If your seals are in good shape then a shift kit or valve body will help with the needed oil pressure to hold the clutches. When you add injectors or a bigger fuel plate you use less throttle to make the torque you did with the stock parts. Less throttle pressure. Keep up the rpm and use the lower gears when towing. Use 4 low when backing up the heavy trailer for any long distance. Reverse is a higher gear than 1 gear is.
The stock converter is a poor choice, but is does wash out torque, easer on drive line parts, makes the turbo spool easer. Less torque on the clutches in fluid coupling. What you end up with is a lot of heat.. going no where fast. The guys have recommended a converter and valve body is a great suggestion. Add a temp gage, check the cooling lines and remove the check valve in the cooling lines.

CarlJensen

When I am towing my 5ver I start out with it selected in 2nd then shift to 3rd at at least 1600rpm. I keep OD off until up to speed then engage it, if needed. Just ease up on the throttle during shifts. Going into OD at 48mph has got to be pretty rough on the OD clutch pack and that is what I try to avoid. I also have a TC lock up switch that I use a lot in the hills. If I recall right max clutch pressure is reached at about 1800rpm.

1workinman

Starting off in second and shifting to 3 is what I have done many times. I generally shift around 2500 or so as to have the rpms up when the next gear drop happens. To land the shift in the 1700 or so. There is a different pcm I think that can give you a lockup at 54 miles an hour. Much better or I would think so. I had rather use a little more fuel and tow at 62 or so in drive and overdrive lock out. I would not use overdrive unless it was flat ground and the rpms were 1750 or better.

Troutstrannysvc

Like I said, cant stress this enough boys... a GOOD TRANSMISSION COOLER and TEMP GAUGE!

notw

Do you have a specific cooler in mind?
What temps should I look for?
Thanks.

infidel

Several of the diesel tranny builders have told me the stock Dodge trans cooling system is excellent in the 2nd gen trucks and need no improvements.

Make sure to install aftermarket temp sender in the hot line, pan temps aren't representative.