Coaldigger

01 Dodge Ram 2500 Quad Cab 4WD 6sp Cummins HO, Laramie. AC Compressor engages, no cold air.

Okay, so the common mentality is that doing something an easy way rather than a hard way is often going to end up causing more trouble down the road than it's worth. However, the laziness in me still begs the question....

Has anyone tried the AC Leak Fix R-134A recharges you can purchase to fix a faulty evaporator core? Had any problems if you did? What are some sound reasons not to go this route?

My original plan calls for evacuating the system, recharging it, and also adding some of the UV Leak Detect charge to make absolutely sure my problem lies with the evaporator and nowhere else. I'm hoping the problem is somewhere else, but I doubt it.

Also, is there something you can do to prevent the evaporator core from corroding? Is there a better aftermarket replacement?

Has anyone considered doing a class action lawsuit against Dodge since it seems to be such a problem?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Coaldigger

Busboy

There are VERY good electronic leak detectors that can pin point your leak, mine needs just a whiff to set it off. You don't always need to fully charge the system and an A/C shop should be able to do it cheaply.

Coaldigger

Thanks for the tip Busboy. I remember the old Freon sniffers but never thought about ones for the new R-134a. I'll check that out. What do you allow about R-134a leak fix in a can?

Busboy

I'm not a fan of miracle cures in a can, besides if it rotted through in one place the spot right next to it is soon to leak. The bottoms of the evaporator are prone to corroding out. I replaced my evaporator last year it was $400 from the dealer. I read on here yesterday that someone paid $165 for one in the US. At that price replacement is the only way to go.

nelly

How hard are they to replace??

Busboy

They are not at all "difficult" they just require a little work. After doing them a few times it is possible to do one "extremely" quickly. There are many threads on here that cover the subject some with excellent pictures. Don't be intimidated but ensure that all the doors in the plenum move freely after reassembly as it's possible to mis-locate a door hinge, which would mean taking it all apart again.

redpoint5

Is the most common AC problem the evap core?

I've run cans of the stop leak with UV detector and they neither stopped the leak or allowed UV detection of the leak.

I'm in the same boat as you now.

Busboy

NO, the most common on any vehicle is the compressor front seal, then on our trucks it's the evaporator core. It's strange how some vehicles evaporators can last 30 years yet ours are good for about 6-7. One thing to ensure is that the charge/fill connections have their dust caps installed as they act as a secondary seal for the valves.

Diesel Dave2

Our trucks use the same evaporator as the jeep...Did a search on the web on jeep evaporator problems..The guys all seem to be complaining how quick these evaporators go....Yet on my 1978 Merc....The AC works perfect and thats a 31 year old car...

1-2-3

When i changed my evap on my 99, I was surprised as to how much gunk was caked onto the surface of it. I don't know how any air was passing over it all all. I would say at least 80% of the surface was fully blocked. It looked like it was just collecting dirt from the small amount of oil that was seeping out with the r134. I would recomend avoiding the can of goop and go ahead and change the evap, heater core, and acumulator. Also, add an ounce of oil for the evap and another ounce if you change the acumulator. Just pour it into either of the components. it's will find it's place in the system.

Diesel Dave2

Hmmm....Good point 123 about the shape of the evaporator on the outside.....Mine was the samething all with grass and dust.....Plus some oily garbage...

Redliner

DONT USE THE LEAK FIXER IN CAN PLEASE!!!! There is no way to detect it for service on the ac unless you tell the shop you used it. If a shop reclaims your system the leak fix WILL stop up there machine unless they have a filter that will catch it (which is like $750) so it dont mess up the machine. If this happens Ive seen shops charge for the machine service to get there machine rebuilt....BIG MONEY!!!!

JasonblkZ06

What about the carbon cab filters that go over the cowl inlets? When I replaced my original evap core there were bugs, feathers, leaves, dirt, and all kinds of crap inside there. Would this help?

There was a lip where the thin white gasket was that collected all of the junk. I modified this gasket and removed that lip so that it would not collect there. It still sits flush with the HVAC box, so it will protect the evap core and seal it well. I would not go with an aftermarket Evap core. The first one I got wouldn't even seal right in the box so I returned it. The second one I got looked ok, but I replaced it 1 year later with a OEM one. I had to keep replacing the freon even after the evap was changed and just knew it wasn't the evap since it was brand new. I looked and looked for leaks with the sniffer and decided to stick it inside the evap drain and it went nuts. Then I went nuts and cussed at the Chinese for manufacturing such crappy things. Our land fills are full with consumer goods that last on average 1-3 years.