2nd gen 12 valve in 1st gen
#3
Registered User
Needs the 1st gen engine brackets and motor mounts and IIR the 2nd gen throttle cable. I think the square hole in the fire wall for the throttle cable needs to be made round.
#4
While the engine is a simple drop-in deal, the additional 24v electronics are definitely an issue if you desire a fully functional instrument cluster and a maintenance data link. My swap came near the end of life for the 1st gen so I just threw in a 2nd gen cluster that doesn't fit (for which you need a 24v body computer. depending on how compatible you want to get) , I was fortunate to obtain the body computer (PCM) from the same manual transmission donor vehicle.
You might find these wiring diagrams helpful interfacing the 24v electrical to a first gen. or at least evaluating the options.
http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/ECM/figures/ecm1.jpg
http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/ECM/figures/ecm.gif
The 24v engine will run without any necessary external inputs other than switched and unswitched 12 volt battery power. I actually test ran mine on an engine stand before installation. Give it the proper power wires and you could take a drive as soon as you get it bolted up.
.
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#5
#6
Registered User
Is it intercooled?
Here is the start of a list of what needs changed on an intercooled truck, IF YOU ARE USING FACTORY COOLERS AND MOUNTING PARTS:
Motor mounts and brackets.
Block/Trans. adaptor plate.
Starter.
Fan & hub assembly. (if going into an intercooled 1stgen)
Radiator.
Intercooler. (if equipped)
If you have a '92 or '93 Dodge, the hole for the accelerator cable is already square, same as the P-7100 cable, so no mods needed there, just R&R the cable.
Additionally, when you hook up the P-7100 injection pump solenoid, the plug on it has 3 wires.
One is for ground, another is for start, the 3rd is for hold (run).
The start position is hot only when the starter is cranking.
As far as sensor wiring, I can fill you in on most of that once I find out your model year on the truck and the engine you want to put in it.
Mark.
#7
....................................Radiator.
...................................Intercooler. (if equipped)
......................If you have a '92 or '93 Dodge, the hole for the accelerator cable is already square, same as the P-7100 cable, so no mods needed there, just R&R the cable.
I made a couple simple adapters to connect to the intercooler until subsequently installing a Ford Super Duty intercooler.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...t283060p2.html
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#8
Registered User
You might want to re-read the WHOLE posting, not pick out what you wish to see.
I advised that he use whatever comes stock with the 1st gen truck.
When you don't know for sure, always err on the part of STOCK for that model year.
Mark.
I advised that he use whatever comes stock with the 1st gen truck.
When you don't know for sure, always err on the part of STOCK for that model year.
Mark.
#9
Registered User
I just did this exact swap into my 91 Non I/C 2wd with a 727 and used a 9612v.
Throttle: I had to make a bracket that bolted on to the Ip to hold my stock throttle linkage plate. I just made a bracket that bolted on with the shutdown solenoid that would bolt up to my factory bracket using the factory holes.
Electrical: I just swapped all the sensors and wiring harness over to my new engine. For the shutdown solenoid wiring I put a 3 post, 70amp starter solenoid on my fender. One wire directly to the battery, the trigger wire (which I ran from the small post on the starter to the small post on the 70amp solenoid), from the other side of the solenoid to the white wire (pull), then from the keyed and relayed 12v distribution block I installed under hood for accessories I ran a wire to the Red (hold) on the solenoid. I have the hold on a 25amp fuse. For the ground I just ran a wire straight from the solenoid ground (black) to a ring terminal which I then installed on one of the bolts that holds the plenum on.
Transmission: You’re going to need to reinstall your factory adapter plate and flex plate.
Cooling system: I had to reuse both of my factory water necks. (Upper and lower). To prevent air locking my cooling system again I drilled and taped the factory upper water neck and installed the small bypass hose that connects the block to the other side of the thermostat. I was able to get all of the parts I needed to do this right off the 2nd gen engine (Ill try and post pictures this weekend.)
Engine mounts: I just unbolted my factory engine mounting plates and installed them. Just dropped right in.
Hope this helps, Dave.
Throttle: I had to make a bracket that bolted on to the Ip to hold my stock throttle linkage plate. I just made a bracket that bolted on with the shutdown solenoid that would bolt up to my factory bracket using the factory holes.
Electrical: I just swapped all the sensors and wiring harness over to my new engine. For the shutdown solenoid wiring I put a 3 post, 70amp starter solenoid on my fender. One wire directly to the battery, the trigger wire (which I ran from the small post on the starter to the small post on the 70amp solenoid), from the other side of the solenoid to the white wire (pull), then from the keyed and relayed 12v distribution block I installed under hood for accessories I ran a wire to the Red (hold) on the solenoid. I have the hold on a 25amp fuse. For the ground I just ran a wire straight from the solenoid ground (black) to a ring terminal which I then installed on one of the bolts that holds the plenum on.
Transmission: You’re going to need to reinstall your factory adapter plate and flex plate.
Cooling system: I had to reuse both of my factory water necks. (Upper and lower). To prevent air locking my cooling system again I drilled and taped the factory upper water neck and installed the small bypass hose that connects the block to the other side of the thermostat. I was able to get all of the parts I needed to do this right off the 2nd gen engine (Ill try and post pictures this weekend.)
Engine mounts: I just unbolted my factory engine mounting plates and installed them. Just dropped right in.
Hope this helps, Dave.
#13
Registered User
No.
The VE uses a hex had that sits into the throttle lever retainer nut.
The P-7100 uses an hour glass-shaped hole on the TPS (kinda' looks like this: "><" )for a blade to ride into.
Both utilize a similar resistance range.
Mark.
The VE uses a hex had that sits into the throttle lever retainer nut.
The P-7100 uses an hour glass-shaped hole on the TPS (kinda' looks like this: "><" )for a blade to ride into.
Both utilize a similar resistance range.
Mark.
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