NHDiesel

I just corrected that. I should have caught it, but I was paying attention to the other transmission in the pic. I read the comparison in size between the 4500 and 3053, and assumed that was a pic of the 4500. Even so, the 465 isn't all that large of a transmission (just extremely rugged), and the spicer isn't THAT much larger. Keep in mind that besides the length of the 4500, our 4x4s use a fairly long adapter housing in between the transmission and t-case. And since I have an auto, its even longer than a 4500, giving me more room, since I want to keep my t-case in the stock location.

Jim

NHDiesel

I'm trying to keep the t-case completely stock, so i want to come up with an adapter or coupler to go from the 10 spline of the Spicer to a male shaft with 29 splines to fit into our t-cases.

Jim

robert chilton

Jim I saw a guy make one of those muncie 465's out of a 2 wd and convert it to 4x4 trans. He removed the yoke then cut off the section that held the bolt so only the splines were left. I bet you could do the same. After that remove the rear bearing assembly cover and use that space to bolt up an adapter just like the factory. The muncie adapter was nothing but a hollow tube with a seal in it to keep the trans and xfercase fluids seperate. Inside a tube road on the tranny output splines to the xfer case input splines. 2 chunks of plate and some thickwall tubing would probably hook it all together for ya if the Xfercase isnt a female shaft.

G1625S

How much bigger is the flywheel? I'm curious if it will alter the comparatively quick revving nature of the b5.9?

NHDiesel

Robert, thats about what I'm planning. The physical support of the case should be fairly simple. I'm thinking of making the plate that bolts to the trans, weld on the tubing, then weld on the rough cut ring for the transfer case. Once its all welded and a couple webs welded in for strength, I'll mount the transmission side to a rotary table on a milling machine and finish mill the ring for the transfer case and the bolt holes. That will ensure that everything stays square and concentric after welding. I want to make sure the t-case is located well within .005" to the centerline of the transmission output shaft for good bearing life, and that would be difficult to hold by machining everything then welding it up after.

I have a few different ideas for the shaft coupling. One is to make the adapter large enough for the transmission output flange to fit inside of, and use a similar flange to mount a 29 spline shaft to. Then just bolt them together and bolt on the transfer case. If I get the parts I need, that should be fairly easy to do.

Another thought is to pay a machine shop with more high tech equipment (that can cut internal and external splines) to make up a custom coupler that has 1 1/2" 10-spline on the inside of one end, and 1 1/2" 29 external splines on a shaft on the other end. That would be much more expensive, and take much longer if i ever needed a replacement.

G1629S,

The flywheel I'll be using takes a 14" clutch. I don't know just how much it will weigh, but its the same one thats used on larger Fords and the 5.9s in the smaller Freightliners. I'm not worried about killer acceleration, reliability is my main concern, and getting rid of this piece of crap Dodge auto will ensure that.

Jim

NHDiesel

O.K., back to one of my original questions...does anyone know how an off the shelf 14" clutch for a 5.9 medium duty would hold up for a slightly bombed 5.9 in a Ram? I don't do any competitions, such as pulling, although I might take it to the 1/4 mile a couple times just to see what it can do. I am a little hesitant just because the 14" off the shelf clutches are only rated for 500 lbs. peak torque for some reason. Are they being very conservative, or is that really all they will take? One of the benefits of this trans swap that I was hoping for was a more affordable heavy duty clutch than buying a $1000 aftermarket unit.

Jim

wannadiesel

That's 500 ft. lbs. against a normal (for a class 7 truck) load. Unless you decide to go pulling with this thing I don't see a standard 14" clutch having any trouble.

NHDiesel

Well my SAE flywheel housing arrived this week, and I took some rough measurements. I thought the flywheel housing might hit my 4" downpipe, but after some rough measurements, it looks like I'll have around 1.5" between the housing and the downpipe, and 2" between the housing and the upper front of the transmission tunnel/firewall area. I think those are the two tightest clearances, so I should be all set without having to grind anything off the flywheel housing.

I also received my master cylinder. I bought a used one off ebay from a Ram 2500 with a manual trans. I looked it over, and I'm going to machine an adapter at work to go into the master cylinder, and accept a pipe thread so the 1/8" pipe thread/#4an fitting adapter I have will thread into it. The master cylinder is plastic, so machining it is out of the question. I have a braided SS line to run from the MC to the slave cylinder. I'm going to use a universal push-type slave cylinder. I'll probably order that next week.

I also have a line on a flywheel from a Freightliner FL70. If the seller gets back to me with a reasonable price, I'll have him ship it out. That still leaves the clutch, which I'll probably pick up from my local Napa.

I have a few assorted transmission putput shafts on the way to use to make a transfer case adapter. I can't proceed with that until I have the transmission in my hand. Unfortunately, the government has to do a thorough check of me to make sure I'm not going to use this high-tech piece of technology against them. I'm sure the security of our country hinges on whether our enemies can get their hands on a 30 year old 2.5 ton transmission. I may have to wait up to 45 days to be cleared for purchase of the transmission.

Jim

frostie

The con-o clutch from south bend is about $600 and is good to 700 LB Ft. Mine started slipping on the dyno at 948 Lb Ft.
I like my 6 speed converstion, looks like you are opening a big can of worms, but good luck, Im sure it will be nice when its done.

NHDiesel

By the time I was done, a Dodge tranny swap would cost me several times what I will have invested in this. And I won't invest that much money in a 10 year old truck with 250K on it. $800-$1000 for an NV4500, $2000+ for an NV5600, or $76 for a Spicer. Its a no brainer for me, and many of the things I'll be spending money on for this conversion would need to be addressed for any manual trans conversion.

Starter: My old one needs to be replaced anyway.
Flywheel: I would need one no matter which manual trans I went with.
Clutch: I can buy a replacement for my conversion for $250 (reman) to $400 (new). Thats still a little less than a SB.
Flywheel housing: I wouldn't have had to spend $120 (shipped), so i could have saved that.
Hydraulic system: $15 for the master cyl., $15 for the SS line, and $55 for the slave, so $85 vs. $300 for a Dodge factory replacement.

I know it won't be an easy conversion, but I'll have the satisfaction of knowing i did it myself, I have rugged, reliable parts, and I'll save a bundle over a much lighter duty Dodge tranny swap.

Jim

Haulin_in_Dixie

Jim, I don't have anything to add at this point, but am interested in how it works out. Do check the bolts that go in the block, mine used longer bolts with the same housing.

One brought up the roadranger trans being so heavy. Not if you use the 600 or 6600 series. Either a five speed or a ten speed is compact, the more gears get heavy.

Channing

Mr NH Diesel How is you 3053A Swap going I picked the 3053 as the transmission for my BBC mud truck. I am having to go with a 12" flywheel becouse of high RPM'S that the cast iron flywheel can't handle. I have questions for you about the pilot bearing Thanks Channing