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1st Gen. Ram - All TopicsDiscussion for all Dodge Rams prior to 1994. This includes engine, drivetrain and non-drivetrain discussions. Anything prior to 1994 should go in here.
My OD failed to function a few months back, so with the help of Mr. Angry Johnny (AJ for short), I was able to figure out that the issue is the solenoid (or so I hope) that has failed, as I followed his procedure and it no workey....
Here's what he said for me to do: Under the truck. Pull the 2 pin connector off the trans, turn the key on. Do you get power to the Blue wire ?
If yes, then there's an issue with the solenoid, or the ECM isn't sending the ground to the orange wire partnered next to the blue wire.
Cut the orange wire. Run an extension to it, up into the cab. Go under your hood, hook another wire to the negative side of the battery, or a really good ground. Run the second wire up the hood, through your superfly window, and into the cab. Go out for a ride.
Once you get up to 40+ MPH, connect the negative wire from the hood, to the orange wire you spliced to the connector on the transmission. If the trans shifts, there's something going on with the orange wire from the ECM, or the temp sensor isn't working telling the ECM to send ground to the solenoid in the trans.
Well, my luck, it can't be easy. Nope. The solenoid is not functioning, and I'm forced to replace the unit in the trans. Luckily, You DON'T have to remove the trans in this case. You can change it in the truck, and since I have a spare transmission, I wanted to do a run through before I did it on my back under the beast. So here's how it all goes.
First thing... per Mark our ADMIN says " is to chock wheels, safety first, glasses, respirator, a six pack of beer, and you're all ready to go !"
Turn the truck on it's side, so you can stand and work easily, as I am today.
Drain fluid. Find sensor connector at trans side, and disconnect. It's directly above the pan, driver side, 3/4 way back, and a small 2 wire connector leads to it from the wiring harness. Disconnect that harness connector by using a small flat screw driver to release the lock, and push / pull up. This is what you are looking at, minus all the red grease, once you've got the connector removed. You will WISH it was as easy as this, but if you persevere you can do it.
BTW, The solenoid assembly from DODGE was discontinued. I was given the part number, and found ONE online. There are companies who manufacture the replacement for it, but here is the Dodge number just for ha' ha's....4883714AA
The dealer I have been using for years is in Lakeland Florida. You can reach them at 800-428-0517 or http://www.wholesalemopar.com
I worked with Frank, and he was a real help with what I needed.
I'm going to suggest that you clean that connector bung on the transmission before you do anything else, as mine was full of junk. You will pull that junk into the transmission if you don't clean that surface around the plastic bung, when you remove the unit.
Next is to pull the pan off, and look at what you have. I've removed the filter to make it easier to see, and since I'm replacing my filter, it all works fine from here out.
This is the bad momba jomba spring you're about to encounter, so be aware.....
Next step is to locate the 3 screws that hold the end of the gizmo which supports the plastic bung on the outside of the transmission that you cleaned previously. I call it a gizmo, because I don't know what to call it yet, as the repair manual for this transmission hasn't gotten here yet... You can see I've marked the 3 screws.
Before you remove the 3 screws, I will suggest a Magnetic bit driver, with a T-25 torx bit on it, as that's what you'll need to remove all the screws you're taking off in this project, other than the pan bolts, which are standard 1/2" socket to get those off. Magnetic is the key here, as you don't want to lose these screws, otherwise you're SCREWED.
I've removed the far right, the one in the middle, and the one all the way to the left for last. Do it as you wish, but keep in mind there is a tension-ed spring hiding in there, ready to jump out and get lost somewhere in your yard, if you're not careful. Whatever you do, don't let that spring fly out of there, ..... or just know where it went if you do.
The fit of that plastic bung that goes up through the transmission body is TIGHT. You may have to use a small mallet, or a pry bar to get it to come down out of there, Be careful not to damage anything as you remove it, other than the plastic bung itself, as that doesn't matter, as you're replacing it with the new one.
Next, from the solenoid connector to the solenoid itself. This is the easy part.
Take your magnetic T-25 torx bit and remove the 3 screws mounting the solenoid in place. No springs, but there is a gasket on the inside. Mine just came apart, on this spare transmission, and I hope that the same occurs in my truck, while lying on my back.
Now that you have the entire assembly out, you can remove the connector from the thing a ma jig it's been bolted to this whole time (and that bolt is special, so don' t mix it up with any of the other bolts), and you can start the cleaning / replacing the unit back the opposite way you just disassembled. it...
There is a locating pin on the bottom of the yellow connector that positions it where its' supposed to be mounted. I'm going to test fit it in there, to make sure the placement aligns through the trans mission housing, remove it, then final tighten of the bolt that holds it in place. It has some availability for play, so before I put that bad momba jomba spring in place, I'm test fitting the location of the new plastic bung mount.
If I come across any other tidbits of information doing this upside down on the ground in my yard, other than how much I despise lying upside down in my yard, under my truck, I'll let you know,.
Hey T, that was done in such a safe manner, I thought that it should be stuck, so I stuck it, good job...Mark
Well, thank you, Oh Mark the wonderful...
It was that six pack of beer that threw me over the top, eh?
Here is day 1 continued. I drove the brick around and warmed up the trans. Got it safe and sound up on my ramps which are right at the safe weight limit, so I installed a helping hand jack in the middle to relieve some of the pressure on both ramps. Ramps held fine....but in your honor, I added an extra margin of safety by transferring the load to da meedle
Fluid is draining over the next few days, and once the parts are here from the dealer, Amazon, and local, ill begin my,trek into the depths of
the trans
I just pull the valve body out instead of taking the O/D accumulator assembly off. Pulling the valve body allows more fluid to drain from the converter. But your way works too and isn't quite as messy.
I just pull the valve body out instead of taking the O/D accumulator assembly off. Pulling the valve body allows more fluid to drain from the converter. But your way works too and isn't quite as messy.
With regards to removing the valve body. There are a bunch of screws which hold it in place, plus the side screws that hold it to the metal bracket on the side towards the driver. Once all those screws are removed:
1. does it just come out ?
2. Isn't there a gasket to be replaced ?
Curiosity has me wondering...
Thank you again, for all the help. I am extremely appreciative.
It's just the 7/16 head bolts that need to be removed. There is no gasket. The most difficult part is getting the park rod in and out of the pawl. I usually put it in first and remove the E clip leaving the rod in place, then reinstall it the same way. A little tricky but not bad.
back on 10/30/18 I ordered the new solenoid from Amazon. they confirmed it, created a shipping number, yada, yada, yada...
Well, today, I get an email from them telling me that they don't have the part. Go figure.
So I looked it up again, and found two replacement versions of it. One from a trans supplier, one from Standard Motor parts. Ordered both. Hopefully one of them comes on soon. I have all the parts except for the solenoid.
Purchased another solenoid, and it's made by Standard Motor products.... or packaged by, anyway.
New Old stock, as it's made in the USA. Slightly different design, but otherwise it fits.
Ordered a B&M Aluminum trans pan # 10280 from Amazon, but what a waste of time that was. The pan itself appears to be very well made. It just doesn't fit. It hits the valve body, and won't rotate into position. Bummed.
Went back to Derale pan, which I previously had. Liked it but it was beginning to rust. like the rest of the truck.
The original solenoid broke removing it, not unexpectedly. Easy to pull out, though, once it broke.
Remember to "CLEAN" around that plug. I used a scraping tool, a bunch of brake cleaner, and compressed air. Got most of it out. some of it, comes back into the trans, so make sure you clean it out before you reassemble. A little transmission fluid on the seals makes the new one slide right in.