Has anyone wired the a/c compressor on it's own individual circuit? Instead of it going through that factory fusible link I would love to relay it and hook it to a HD rocker switch up under the message center,

I have no idea where to start though, do i need a 5 prong relay or 4 prong relay? I know on a 4 prong relay, terminal 85 is ground, and 87 is 12v from battery but that's about it. Not sure which terminal i'd hook the rocker switch or which terminal goes to the a/c comp.

I know coming out of the A/C compressor there is 2 wires and if i hook 12v to one and ground to the other the a/c compressor will kick in.

Any help appreciated, someones done this before, i know it.

I have Ice Cold A/C that blows very hard but the A/c Comp. trips the main fuse which just happens to control everything in the truck including the shutoff solenoid which stops it from running.

 

just run power to the switch on its on circuit from battery or put a relay in.

post a wiring diagram pic and ill show you what i mean.almost all a/c's are run in series.
batt power to switch on/off to thermostat to binary(low/high pressure switch) then the ac compressor clutch

 

relay is 30 from batt power 87 is whatever you want switched then 85 or 86 as ground and either of those you didnt use is the "switched" power

 

Are you certain it is the A/C clutch that is knocking out the power and not the blower ??

On the wife's truck, I found the blower circuit had all but melted itself out of the fuse-block, along with the power-window circuit.

I cut those wires out of the fuse-block and ran entirely separate fused BIGGER wires from 12-Volt Positive and spliced directly to those two "cold side" feeds.

All I did was bypass the fuse-block, key-switch, and any up-stream wiring, for those two functions, power-windows and blower.

Thus, as it currently stands, the power-windows and the fan-blower both will operate with the key OFF.


This took a huge current load away from the rest of the factory system, especially the under-engineered fuse-block and over-taxed key-switch.


The windows shoot up and down as if on steroids and the blower is at least 50% stronger than before.



If it is indeed your A/C clutch that is knocking power out, there must be something going haywire with the clutch mechanism, as they are usually a low amperage draw.

 

It's not the blower because the blower doesn't run off that circuit, when the fuse under the hood pops (which used to be the fusible link) the blower is about the only thing in the cab that still works, along with the power windows and locks/mirrors.

 

Thanks Lucas. I will try that, So between 86 and 87, One of them i just put to a good ground source.

And the other I run to a Fused Rocker Switch with 12v to it?

If i'm running that wire to a rocker switch with power, than what is the point of even having the Relay?

Idealy I want the A/C compressor to be impossible to engage when the key is off, so I should get the power for the rocker switch from a KEY ON power supply in the fuse box somewhere.

 

Instead of using a rocker switch to power your relay you could use the factory wiring to pull in the relay. So instead of the factory wiring powering the clutch it just powers the relay and the relay sends power to the clutch. That way its completely automatic the way it was before but you effectively put the clutch on its own circuit.

 

That's the best idea i"ve heard,

so the wiring going to the A/C comp....One of those is going to be my power on when i push the button in the dash, which will trip the relay and power will be sucked straight from the battery instead of through the PCM etc.

 

got it guys. Thanks for the help.

A/C was blowing ice cubes out on the way to work today, i relayed the Compressor last night so now i can run it and it doesn't put a load on that fuse that kept popping. very easy install, the 4 prong relay came with a Re-tard explanation of what each post does, so easy a kid can do it.