possible to replace VE seal on the truck?
possible to replace VE seal on the truck?
It looks like my ve is leaking fuel from the o ring between the pump head and case. Is it possible just to remove all the injector lines, the back of the pump, swap out the o ring and not mess up anything, like the timing?
thanks for any help given
thanks for any help given
was this done with the stock bolts or do i need longer ones? Or do you just take the bolts all the way out and hold the head up close to the case?
also, it looks like the input shaft underneath the head comes out pretty far, will the head come back far enough for the o ring to go by it?
also, it looks like the input shaft underneath the head comes out pretty far, will the head come back far enough for the o ring to go by it?
If you have never had a VE completely apart, and are not familiar with all the parts that are under spring pressure just inside that head, I recommend you not try to replace that O-ring without pulling the pump.
From what I read, there is about a 50% success rate on replacing that seal without pulling the pump, and about one of five will get something haywire and destroy the pump.
Those that are successful are intimately familiar with the inside workings of the VE.
To do this on the engine, you must first replace the bolts, one by one, with longer ones.
You remove the lines and do not mess with anything else.
Only loosen the bolts just barely enough to remove/replace the O-ring, without allowing the springs to slip out of their bores, not let the plunger washer fall out from between the plunger and roller-cam, and not let any cam-rollers relocate.
Oh, also without allowing the governor to dis-locate.
If you have the lines off the head, it is a simple matter to just go ahead and pull the pump.
From what I read, there is about a 50% success rate on replacing that seal without pulling the pump, and about one of five will get something haywire and destroy the pump.
Those that are successful are intimately familiar with the inside workings of the VE.
To do this on the engine, you must first replace the bolts, one by one, with longer ones.
You remove the lines and do not mess with anything else.
Only loosen the bolts just barely enough to remove/replace the O-ring, without allowing the springs to slip out of their bores, not let the plunger washer fall out from between the plunger and roller-cam, and not let any cam-rollers relocate.
Oh, also without allowing the governor to dis-locate.
If you have the lines off the head, it is a simple matter to just go ahead and pull the pump.
You must STRETCH the O-ring completely over the head; for this reason, I would have a few spares, because you will probably tear a couple before you get one stretched over without damaging it.
DON'T DO IT! By the time you get the head far enough off to access the o-ring, there is nothing holding the cam plate springs in their place. The shim that goes between the rotor and the cam plate can fall out (happened to me) and you are having a world of stress. Do your self a favor and just remove the pump. Not to say that ordeal went any better for me...
There are lots of little pieces in there and if the pump is on its side, they can fall out. Sometimes I think guys on here that are more familiar with certain things make stuff out be easier and less complicated than it is. The injection pump is the most complicated part on the truck. I wouldn't try and half-a$$ anything about it.
Just my .02
Jason
There are lots of little pieces in there and if the pump is on its side, they can fall out. Sometimes I think guys on here that are more familiar with certain things make stuff out be easier and less complicated than it is. The injection pump is the most complicated part on the truck. I wouldn't try and half-a$$ anything about it.
Just my .02
Jason
If i do take the pump off, does it goes as follows.
Get the keyway at 12:00, pull the gear, scribe a timing line from pump to case and pull the pump. THen it just goes back on in reverse order and I line the pump back up with the scribe lines i made? I have replaced a vp44 before, and from what i can read it is pretty much the same except i have to line the pump up with the case exactly for timing?
Get the keyway at 12:00, pull the gear, scribe a timing line from pump to case and pull the pump. THen it just goes back on in reverse order and I line the pump back up with the scribe lines i made? I have replaced a vp44 before, and from what i can read it is pretty much the same except i have to line the pump up with the case exactly for timing?
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