HELP!!!

My IP is leaking, and I think, failing internally (posted problems in another thread). I found a pump and injectors from a '90 non-IC to put in my truck ('93 IC'd). Will this work???

I've heard the injectors have a different size (9mm vs 7mm) is that where they plug into the head or the fuel lines themselves. If I can get the pump to injector lines, will it all work?? Can I use just the pump or am I wasting money??? If this pump won't work what years can I use??

I'm still learning the Cummins idiocrancies, I've had mine for about 6 years, put 74k miles on it with nothing more than a clutch, 2 trans rebuilds (1 full, 1 re-shim/tuneup), and a blown pinion gear, at least until now when the IP died. I need to get it back on the road, while I track down the guy who did the pump mod's originally.

 

The injectors will not fit your head.

Swap pumps, that will work OK. The KSB works backwards, but that's no big deal. Just tie the KSB solenoid straight to the shutoff solenoid instead of running it through the temp switch in the manifold.

 

Cool on the pump, but you lost me on the KSB... That's the cold fuel enrichment, right? By tieing it to the shut off soleniod it will be powered all the time rather than waiting until the engine warms up??

I'm trying to learn as I go now...

My current pump was modded by the original Dr Performance, and my understanding is raised fuel pressure and mods to the injectors (direction and pattern). Will my injectors still work if the pump pressure isn't as high as my modded pump??

 

Yes that is the way the Non IC KSB's work they have 12v when warm unlike the IC versions which have 12v when cold.

 

The injectors control the pressure, the pump will make enough pressure to pop them open. If the guy who set the truck up really did raise the pop pressure on the injectors, that's a bad idea long-term. It works the pump a lot harder and will tear up the cam plate and rollers fast.

 

So with the ULSD and high pressure that could explain the dramatic change in my performance and milage before the pump started leaking... ...

On the KSB, could I get a temp switch for the earlier truck and keep it functional, or is it even needed?

Oh, and just in case I forget to say it later:

"Thanks for all the help!!!'

 

How cold does it get in the winter in your area? If it doesn't get much colder than 20 degrees you won't even notice. As long as you don't mind a little white smoke when the truck is cold, you don't need it anyway.

The early trucks ran it off an air temp sensor via a brain box. An NO temp switch that opens around 90 degrees would work OK to run it.

 

I could probably get by without it, if it's below 30* I plug the truck in anyway...

So the Early KSB is rich depowered and lean when powered? Could I use the current temp sensor and a relay to reverse the signal to the KSB. Use the lead that goes to the KSB to signal the relay, but use a dual contact relay powered off a keyed circuit. When the temp switch opens it would release the relay, which would then send power to the KSB???

That way I haven't hacked my wiring and can go back to stock when (IF) I get my original pump rebuilt.

 

Just swap the KSB from your old pump and it will work fine. I have a spare pump from an 89 and I just swapped the KSB and the delivery valves from the 92 pump over to it.

 

Now that's thinkin'! Yes, you could use it that way.

KSB doesn't have anything to do with rich or lean, it advances the timing at low RPM on a cold engine to reduce white smoke.

 

AHHH< see I'm learning things!!! So could it be wired up to provide advance on demand?? kind of a "tow & go" switch?

 

It doesn't work that way. It brings in the advance at low RPM, but will not increase the total amount of the advance.

You can hot-wire the KSB for drag racing, pulling, or a dyno run, it's a good crutch for a truck that needs a better fuel supply system. This is because it restricts the amount of fuel flowing out the return line, which helps keep the pump case pressure up.

 

So hotwiring it wouldn't be a good thing for emissions testing if I'm already failing.... Opacity is almost double the limit. I also saw the thread about bumping the timing, would that help clean it up a little for emissions?

Again thanks for the education...

 

Only if you're having white smoke issues. Advanced timing actually increases black smoke.

 

darn, already too much black smoke. On the good side, I have a stock ;90 pump coming from back east to throw on mine until I can get the modded pump redone. Should be back on the road by next weekend, hopefully.
The stock pump SHOULD help my emissions problem too....