how hard to do rotors on 06 2wd SRW? Advance or NAPA rotors?
#1
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how hard to do rotors on 06 2wd SRW? Advance or NAPA rotors?
NAPA is around $300 with tax for all four rotors.
advance is 53.97 each front, 71.48 each rear
plus tax, and a two day wait.
pulled a 7k pound boat on a "storage trailer" (read: no brakes, very cheap) through afternoon traffic, warped them.
figure will put new ones on,
get the OEM's turned and have them as ready spares.
i think i gave away a set of front rotors for my 04 to MadHat anyways...
saw on a 2nd Gen post where they had to pull the axles to change the rear rotors? that don't sound right. or easy.
advance is 53.97 each front, 71.48 each rear
plus tax, and a two day wait.
pulled a 7k pound boat on a "storage trailer" (read: no brakes, very cheap) through afternoon traffic, warped them.
figure will put new ones on,
get the OEM's turned and have them as ready spares.
i think i gave away a set of front rotors for my 04 to MadHat anyways...
saw on a 2nd Gen post where they had to pull the axles to change the rear rotors? that don't sound right. or easy.
#3
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: southern illinois
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Hey 04ctd
Check with rockauto.com. Don't go cheap regardless what ya decide. You have a quality built product keep it that way. I also beleive in NAPA products. But it don't hurt to shop around for the best bang for your buck. Gray Ram
Check with rockauto.com. Don't go cheap regardless what ya decide. You have a quality built product keep it that way. I also beleive in NAPA products. But it don't hurt to shop around for the best bang for your buck. Gray Ram
#4
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fronts are easy.
13mm for caliper slide bolts,
18mm for caliper brackets.
6 inch "C" clamp to push calipers back in.
can of brake cleaner to clean off shipping/storage oil and finger prints.
i did have to put a lugnut on the new rotors to hold them flat while i put the brackets & calipers back on.
I use a rubber mallet to tighten/loosen stuff to keep from destroying my hands.
but the 18mm were SO tight, I had to use an extra floor jack and a 6 inch block of 2x4 to get the passenger side loose.
i could hit the top bolt (driver side) hard enough (down stroke with rubber mallet) to get it loose.
and I finally used an impact to take off the driver side lower 18mm bolt.
have not got to rears yet, don't think i need to.
13mm for caliper slide bolts,
18mm for caliper brackets.
6 inch "C" clamp to push calipers back in.
can of brake cleaner to clean off shipping/storage oil and finger prints.
i did have to put a lugnut on the new rotors to hold them flat while i put the brackets & calipers back on.
I use a rubber mallet to tighten/loosen stuff to keep from destroying my hands.
but the 18mm were SO tight, I had to use an extra floor jack and a 6 inch block of 2x4 to get the passenger side loose.
i could hit the top bolt (driver side) hard enough (down stroke with rubber mallet) to get it loose.
and I finally used an impact to take off the driver side lower 18mm bolt.
have not got to rears yet, don't think i need to.
#5
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I'd have to agree with "Grey Ram". You would think that when it comes to brakes high quality would be standard. Unfortunately you get what you pay for. Cheap rotors means less material, poorer quality material, more heat, less life, less brakes etc.
#7
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One small thought...When you change your rotors (get good ones) and start the re-assembly process, make sure that your slide rods are free and well lubed. If they are not the pads will drag and cause hot / hard spots in your rotors, and you will feel the dreaded pulse in your brake pedal and in the steering wheel. This is the most overlooked item, and maybe one of the most important
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#8
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Aren't the OE rotors cryo-treated from the factory? If so, I wouldn't get anything less. Slotted/drilled rotors aren't going to help much on heavy trucks like ours. And make sure you don't get the "Lifetime" junk pads either. They can make them lifetime by making them extremely hard, which makes them grind down the rotors faster, and not stop as well.
Just my $0.01999999
Just my $0.01999999
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