95 cummins
95 cummins
I have a 95 cummins 2500 extended cab auto trans 4x4. The truck has a 4.5" lift and 35's. I have 4.10 gears so I don't think its the drivetrain thats draining the performance it just needs something more. I really want to get some more horsepower and torque from the engine but on a budget. I would like to be at around 300 to 400 HP. I know the trans is gonna be the weak link. Any suggestions on what I can do to get a noticeable HP gain without having to go thru carrier bearings and u-joints all the time?
first thing is get you some gauges . then put a bhaf on there (big honken air filter ) then staight pipe the exhaust . then start playing with the pump ie a few turns to the star wheel in the afc housing and slide the plate foreward. these are things that all can be done really cheap . and if you know some one with the tools to time it have them time it to about 16 degrees . this is what i have gathered from all the 12 vavler guys they will have a better knowagle on what order and the proper timing of these . but dont go to big until you atleast do a vavle body and tc that is if you have good line pressures if the pressures are down then just bite the bullet and have it rebuilt or do it yourself.
Are your stacks really loud in the cab? I have been thinking about doing that but was concerned about the noise in the cab. I have the truck straight piped already but its with the stock 3.5" pipe. What brand of air filter would you suggest putting on it and where can you get those pyro gauges from?
actually i ran a 4 inch straight pipe for about 2 weeks while gathering all the stuff for the stacks...i had it pointed down right around where whe bed starts and THAT was annoying....the drone in the cab was disgusting...when i put the stacks up (i have em 1 inch above the cab" i found it to be fine when the windows are closed...when u open the back window its a wicked roar...im into that sorta thing ...its an addictive sound.
i did the square tubing method took 54 inches or 2"x6" steel tubing...mig welded lil stubs on the ends for the stacks to slide into..and a 4inch diamter stub to go throuhg the bed and then some flex pipe.....looks clean and sounds awesome takes up very little space in the box...just 2" vertically
square tubing 30$
flex 20$
stacks (hacked them myself) 20$ each at the big rig wreckers
then i spent lots of time on it
i did the square tubing method took 54 inches or 2"x6" steel tubing...mig welded lil stubs on the ends for the stacks to slide into..and a 4inch diamter stub to go throuhg the bed and then some flex pipe.....looks clean and sounds awesome takes up very little space in the box...just 2" vertically
square tubing 30$
flex 20$
stacks (hacked them myself) 20$ each at the big rig wreckers
then i spent lots of time on it
u can get gauges on here or go to the links section and find a vendor close to u or just visit ur local performance shop and ask...u need a thermocouple that can take over 1600degrees Fand then a gauge to read it thats all...drilling and installign instructions can be found here and on www.dodgeram.org(everyones fav tech resource)
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i dunno what the MPG is ive never done the math but i get more than the other truck i drive thats alil reg cab chev with a 4.3...last summer i did 1200kms in one tank all highway id say thats not bad at all...my sweet spot is 1800-1900rpm in 4th gear..im not the fastest guy out there by any means i go in the slow lane..but thats how i save...as soon as i go over 2000rpm i feel it likes to drink
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