Scotty

I am trying to help a buddy with some surgery on his 2000 ram.
We did the injectors and the Fass and last night attempted to get the dead VP off the truck. All the nuts are off the studs, bolts removed from the bracket, injector lines removed, electrical unplugged.
Made sure the notch is at top dead center position and tried to press it off.
No go. I stopped as I think something is not quite right. The pump is loose...wobbly but will not pull off.
Is there something about the key way on the pump? Does that need to be lined up with the notch at TDC? Its been at least 8 yrs since I pulled a pump and my gut is telling me I am missing something. Maybe did not press it enough?
Do not want to overlook something and damage so we stopped.

Any help is appreciated.

Scotty

Shovelhead

Assuming that the nut on the timing gear has also been removed......

Tighten the gear puller/press then tap it a couple of times with a small hammer, then tighten a little more.

That usually loosens things up.

Scotty

Yes the nut and lock washer are removed. As you know...this little guy can break stuff...my spidey senses said stop and ask before I wrench on it more.

ado2b1

I used a steering wheel puller to separate the pump from the gear, worked great. Something else that you might look at is the insulation on the engine side of the pump. I had mine completely loose from the gear, was attempting to pull out and it kept stopping at the same point. I went with a big bar and pried on it until I figured out it was an edge of the insulation. Snapped it off then no problem. Something as simple as that if all else is already loose?

Scotty

Yeah its all loose, just being awkward. Will be back at it this afternoon.
There is space on the back side and I can get a pry bar in there but still tight.
Pumps moves around...its gotta be hung up or not quite out.

Thanks

pind

The keyway needs to be at 12. that is the only stipulation.

When you tap the puller, you will see things fall slack, as the gear comes off the shaft. if the puller hasn't fallen sleck, then your gear is still on the taper shaft, and you need to be slightly more aggressive with it.

the pump should come out no problem, once the gear is free of the shaft, then just lift the pump out, coat the o ring on the new pump with engine oil, slide it into place and start bolting it together.

I have done a few of these, to the point where I did my last one in a hotel parking lot in barely over an hour. Getting too used to it.

Scotty

Thanks! Great description. the pump is slack but not off the taper. Maybe I got the wording mixed up...the key way is the notch on that face where I bolt up my puller correct? Its the rectangle cut out adjacent to the shaft?
It thats it, I have it at 12 o'clock as described. For some reason I think I got key way and slot/notch in my head as something different...yes? no?

Tate

Just for clarification, the notch is the keyway in the gear. The slot in the pump shaft is the key seat. The key is obviously the little piece of metal that is in there.

I forgot about the insulation on the tappet cover. It never hindered me with my VP, but hooked me up when I was test fitting the p-pump. If it stuck out far enough, it could grab one of the ears on the VP flange face. It does sound like your gear is still stuck on there. If you feel like you are reefing too hard on the puller, get a hammer and give it a good smack (it might be a light tap for you from what I've heard), it will usually knock them loose. Works great on the 12v's.

Scotty

ok, that is what I cannot see...I cannot see the little piece of metal...the key is not there no matter where I clock this thing. I have cranked the motor around and watch real close for the key to align with the key way...no key. I am using a mirror to watch and nothing changes inside the key way...dark. Plus I have been using plenty of light to watch for the key. nothing

ado2b1

I hope its in the pump shaft when you get it out, if not... PITA time. However, if you've pulled the pump even mostly out, then it might be a little difficult to see it even with the light back there. Just make sure the slot where the key should be is in 12 o'clock, and quit turning. After getting the junk insulation out of the way, and having worked the pump quite a bit to get it out, my key had almost jumped out of the keyway...

I think you could probably do a little prying between the pump flange and the mounting surface. Just to see if a little pressure won't free it. {caution: this may be a bad idea, but I had lost patients when I tried, nothing bad happened though}

Tate, yep my insulation grabbed the "hidden" ear of the flange by a fraction of an inch. It was stout enough that when pulling straight back on the VP it felt like I had a partially loosened bolt still in.

Tate

If the keyway was at TDC before you popped the gear from the shaft, then it will still be aligned now. Find out what you're hanging up on and yank it out. You'll have to turn the pump shaft on the new one so the key will line up with the keyway in the gear.

Shovelhead

This is what you should see in the mirror.

Indexing the key at 12:00 helps to keep it from dropping into the timing gear case when the pump slides free, or when installing the new one.

Shovelhead

Didja get it loose?

Scotty

Yep it just needed a more persuasive tap. I got it out, got the injectors, Fass, cam sensor and pump in. Its was late when it was all buttoned up. Tried to start it but ran out of time and battery. Had to work all day today. Going to try and purge, crank purge tomorrow.

Thanks!

Scotty

Scotty

Cracked open three injector lines, let the new fass run its cycle after bumping starter...did that three times. Then cranked the motor for 15-20 seconds with lines open...3 times. Closed the lines, cranked for 15-20 second..3 times it smoked, knocked and blew white smoke but no start. Tried this again, the entire sequence two more times. No start. Charged the batteries and let the starter cool between attempts.

Its like its right on the edge of starting but will not catch...any ideas or suggestions? Last one I did about 8 yrs ago only took a few attempts and it fired up fine. I would remember this if it was this difficult before.

Another question...Is the TPS/APPS the same for a manual and an auto? Buddy has one from a manual for a good price.

Scotty