TXDTR #8 New Thread for February
Justin, Mine was done back when everyone said you needed braided stainless. Works great but a real pain.
Everything I've read in last few yrs says regular fuel line but some type of sleeve over it at firewall.
Closed, one way system, so closing the needle valve down 98% works well and avoids gauge rattle and pressure leaks.
Where are you mounting it?
RJ
Everything I've read in last few yrs says regular fuel line but some type of sleeve over it at firewall.
Closed, one way system, so closing the needle valve down 98% works well and avoids gauge rattle and pressure leaks.
Where are you mounting it?
RJ

Nylon tubing with compression fittings good enough? With a sleeve where it passes through anything tight.
BTW, just a friendly warning for any of you that have done the power window mod where you swap power between the power seat and power window breakers so you have power windows all the time. The little lights on the switches stay on full time when you do that and they draw around 110mA. The normal key-off draw is usually around 7mA
I've always noticed that if the truck sat for a while (a week or two while traveling) that the batteries would be a little slow. I guess that explains it. Not sure if that contributed to the death of one of my Optima Redtops, but I did get a free warranty replacement yesterday at AZ.
I've always noticed that if the truck sat for a while (a week or two while traveling) that the batteries would be a little slow. I guess that explains it. Not sure if that contributed to the death of one of my Optima Redtops, but I did get a free warranty replacement yesterday at AZ.
I have had the window mod for 3 or 4 years and have never had the batteries run down because of it. The longest it set was about 7 or 8 days. Lately, two or three days without a problem. I think it depends a lot on how good your batteries are. Speaking of which, have you checked yours lately?
Yeah, checked them out on Tuesday. That is why I got one replaced yesterday. My passenger side battery was pulling down to 4-5V under load. The drivers side was still OK, it would only go down to 10-11 under load. I put a charger on the passenger side and it would take a charge and would hold up under load for about 7-8 seconds, then it would drop like a rock.
Might be more of an issue for me since my truck routinely sits for 3-4 days without being started up. The constant slow discharge, then rapid recharge while running might not be a good for those Redtops. Plus the topper might have been in December when it sat for 10 days in the cold, since it was almost completely dead when I tried to start it (the grids completed drained the batts when I hit the key).
BTW...does your last century truck have the ID lights on the door switches??
Might be more of an issue for me since my truck routinely sits for 3-4 days without being started up. The constant slow discharge, then rapid recharge while running might not be a good for those Redtops. Plus the topper might have been in December when it sat for 10 days in the cold, since it was almost completely dead when I tried to start it (the grids completed drained the batts when I hit the key).
BTW...does your last century truck have the ID lights on the door switches??
I'm replacing the wasted 3G Group 65 batteries in the Cheap Hooker with a pair of Group 31s... that thing has eaten batteries since it was new - and the power window mod only drains them faster.
Didn't get the first flakes up here until 8ish - it's already a winter wonderland outside!
Didn't get the first flakes up here until 8ish - it's already a winter wonderland outside!







Yes.......Ole' Red has the ID lights.