Tx #8 June Meet
Happy Birthday Justin!
I usually align trucks with maximum +caster (a little cross caster with mud lugs to keep off the curb) which is +4.5-5.0*.
The wear spec on the ball joints is so large that I don't consider camber changes from caster adjustment to be significant. The top ball joint is just a floating king pin anyway - all the weight is on the lower BJ.
I set toe to absolute minimum to lighten the steering & improve response, but you have to back off a little on older trucks with worn BJs - they'll push out the amount of slop while cruising due to rolling resistance.
I also adjust the drag link differently depending on whether the truck is auto or manual.
Additionally, on trucks that tow or haul both caster & camber will decrease.
Otherwise, the best thing for solid front axles is running tires at max inflation and rotating them often enough to wear off the cupping.
I wish I could get 40K out of the 37" Toyos.
Glad you're coming back to visit, Max!
I usually align trucks with maximum +caster (a little cross caster with mud lugs to keep off the curb) which is +4.5-5.0*.
The wear spec on the ball joints is so large that I don't consider camber changes from caster adjustment to be significant. The top ball joint is just a floating king pin anyway - all the weight is on the lower BJ.
I set toe to absolute minimum to lighten the steering & improve response, but you have to back off a little on older trucks with worn BJs - they'll push out the amount of slop while cruising due to rolling resistance.
I also adjust the drag link differently depending on whether the truck is auto or manual.
Additionally, on trucks that tow or haul both caster & camber will decrease.
Otherwise, the best thing for solid front axles is running tires at max inflation and rotating them often enough to wear off the cupping.
I wish I could get 40K out of the 37" Toyos.

Glad you're coming back to visit, Max!
I MADE IT, got to Saginaw about nine and mostly unloaded by ten. . .
what is with this heat, I am ROASTING. . . dry heat =
this humid heat = 
BUTT, glad to be home for about 50 days.
what is with this heat, I am ROASTING. . . dry heat =
this humid heat = 
BUTT, glad to be home for about 50 days.
Wasn't me. I don't get on 35 much....but I burn Central Expressway (75) up between McKinney and Dallas.
Guilty as charged! You did get me to start thinking about going to a little bit smaller tire after reading your comments on the 265s a while back. But I wasn't willing to go that small. Your truck just didn't look the same going back to those.
These new tires have a number of great benefits. I was cruising tonight at 70mph and the truck just purred. It was so quiet in the cab. My water temp was a cool 195 degrees, EGT sat exactly on 600, Boost was running about 4lbs on flat level ground, turning about 1800 rpms.......and I could hear myself think with a lack of road noise.
I'd also be curious how it would do in a drag race. The truck FEELS quicker and lighter and more nimble.
Now, I am also going to be curious about my mileage. I reset my overhead thingy and ran the truck today.......and it said around 25 mpg. Now normally it says 22ish which of course is way high. My actual mileage with the old BFG Muds usually hovered around 15.5 to 16 when I hand calculate, mixed city/highway. So im curious if the new tires really helped my mileage by 3 mpg or even 2. I just filled up tonight (15.5 mpg) on the last tank.........and im headed out to Mississippi empty (no towing) so I should get a nice baseline with the new Nittos. I'd be thrilled with an actual 19 on the road!!
..
Guilty as charged! You did get me to start thinking about going to a little bit smaller tire after reading your comments on the 265s a while back. But I wasn't willing to go that small. Your truck just didn't look the same going back to those.
These new tires have a number of great benefits. I was cruising tonight at 70mph and the truck just purred. It was so quiet in the cab. My water temp was a cool 195 degrees, EGT sat exactly on 600, Boost was running about 4lbs on flat level ground, turning about 1800 rpms.......and I could hear myself think with a lack of road noise.
I'd also be curious how it would do in a drag race. The truck FEELS quicker and lighter and more nimble.
Now, I am also going to be curious about my mileage. I reset my overhead thingy and ran the truck today.......and it said around 25 mpg. Now normally it says 22ish which of course is way high. My actual mileage with the old BFG Muds usually hovered around 15.5 to 16 when I hand calculate, mixed city/highway. So im curious if the new tires really helped my mileage by 3 mpg or even 2. I just filled up tonight (15.5 mpg) on the last tank.........and im headed out to Mississippi empty (no towing) so I should get a nice baseline with the new Nittos. I'd be thrilled with an actual 19 on the road!!
..
Happy Birthday Justin!
I usually align trucks with maximum +caster (a little cross caster with mud lugs to keep off the curb) which is +4.5-5.0*.
The wear spec on the ball joints is so large that I don't consider camber changes from caster adjustment to be significant. The top ball joint is just a floating king pin anyway - all the weight is on the lower BJ.
I set toe to absolute minimum to lighten the steering & improve response, but you have to back off a little on older trucks with worn BJs - they'll push out the amount of slop while cruising due to rolling resistance.
I also adjust the drag link differently depending on whether the truck is auto or manual.
Additionally, on trucks that tow or haul both caster & camber will decrease.
Otherwise, the best thing for solid front axles is running tires at max inflation and rotating them often enough to wear off the cupping.
I wish I could get 40K out of the 37" Toyos.
Glad you're coming back to visit, Max!
I usually align trucks with maximum +caster (a little cross caster with mud lugs to keep off the curb) which is +4.5-5.0*.
The wear spec on the ball joints is so large that I don't consider camber changes from caster adjustment to be significant. The top ball joint is just a floating king pin anyway - all the weight is on the lower BJ.
I set toe to absolute minimum to lighten the steering & improve response, but you have to back off a little on older trucks with worn BJs - they'll push out the amount of slop while cruising due to rolling resistance.
I also adjust the drag link differently depending on whether the truck is auto or manual.
Additionally, on trucks that tow or haul both caster & camber will decrease.
Otherwise, the best thing for solid front axles is running tires at max inflation and rotating them often enough to wear off the cupping.
I wish I could get 40K out of the 37" Toyos.

Glad you're coming back to visit, Max!
I may try the Lazarsmith eyeball Alignment special instead of the dealer...
Seems to work to me.Next set of tires switch to the Toyo Open Country All Terrains...maybe you can get closer to 40K miles.

..
Welcome home Max!!!
If I ever get to retire (who knows anymore with BO in office and our country going to ______LL)...........I will have spent my last summer in North Texas! I am sick of this heat already and July just started.

..
And Robert... It is absolutely amazing how a small drop in tire size can increase drivability and especially towing performance!!!
Specs that I saved, from a very technical, 2nd Gen thread on TDR, with general concensus from all guru's that comtributed, are.........
- 3.2*L, 3.5*R caster, .3 cross caster....
- 0-.1* toe,
- 0* +/- .1 camber
Pretty close to what you said Mike!
RJ
I'm asking all of this because part of my mileage attempt will include changing my drive ratios, however it looks like the best thing to do is have a custom 2 speed thrown in, everything I calculate out will benefit the most from having a 0.80 gear reduction for my current rear end or go to a 1.20 gear induction (however you want to say that) after throwing 3.42s in the pumpkin. Or I just say enough and get a Gear Vendors (.714).



