April at The Ranch
It the lazy mans perventative maintenance system that seems to work well.
Many who plan on flushing @ 2-3 yrs, never seem to get around to it until temps start climbing.

Robert-If it's the factory T-stat @ 150,000 miles (and because it's a 10 min job on a CTD) I would change it while the Rad is drained. Cummins only!! Some T-stats go much longer but many seem to act up between 100-200,000.
Lack of crude build-up on housing, and the T-Stat you remove, will prove the value of this PM practice. Has for me.
I agree with Justin on the water pump.
QUESTION FOR THE DAY! - If that's my 2 cents, but it's a penny for your thoughts ...........
Where does the other penny go??
RJ
What I meant to say was "If you're just draining and refilling the rad, I wouldn't bother with changing out the thermostat unless you're see abnormal temps. If you were flushing the whole system and pulling the thermostat off in the process, then you might as well drop a new one in since you're already there".
Didn't mean to imply that a drain and refill of the rad was a bad process...
Yes, I just drain and refill. I usually do it every 20K...but skipped last time so this go round has been 40K. Starting with this maintenance interval, I plan to lengthen this to 25K....on all fluids/filters.....except motor oil. Temps have been normal....195ish normally and maybe 205-210 towing in the hills or on hard exceleration.
Robert my weep hole starting weeping on my WP around ~185K that is when I changed it. Very easy to do. My T-stat is still chugging along at 213K. I would recommend looking over your upper rad hose very well, mine got a hole rubbed in it from the top pulley. That made for a fun day...
That's what I do.... every spring! It's what keeps the temps normal! By replacing 50% of the coolant @ yr, it, so far, has not needed a flush.
It the lazy mans perventative maintenance system that seems to work well.
Many who plan on flushing @ 2-3 yrs, never seem to get around to it until temps start climbing.
Robert-If it's the factory T-stat @ 150,000 miles (and because it's a 10 min job on a CTD) I would change it while the Rad is drained. Cummins only!! Some T-stats go much longer but many seem to act up between 100-200,000.
Lack of crude build-up on housing, and the T-Stat you remove, will prove the value of this PM practice. Has for me.
I agree with Justin on the water pump.
...............
RJ
It the lazy mans perventative maintenance system that seems to work well.
Many who plan on flushing @ 2-3 yrs, never seem to get around to it until temps start climbing.

Robert-If it's the factory T-stat @ 150,000 miles (and because it's a 10 min job on a CTD) I would change it while the Rad is drained. Cummins only!! Some T-stats go much longer but many seem to act up between 100-200,000.
Lack of crude build-up on housing, and the T-Stat you remove, will prove the value of this PM practice. Has for me.
I agree with Justin on the water pump.
...............
RJ
Yep RJ...you and Charlie taught me that.........so I started doing it regularly too. My radiator has never been "flushed"..........just drained and refilled a bunch of times.......distilled water/Zerex G05. I guess I should go ahead and get a new Tstat and change it out now....for good measure.
Thanks for everybody's input. I'll leave the WP alone for now but start watching it closer.

..
Be Safe Daniel!!
FINALLY..... Got my CTD back!
-Don't like the Road Armor as much as the UTE, but it's growing on me!
-70 lbs heavier is a negative but the powder coating is nicest I've ever seen!
-RAM Logo plate (bgt 7 yrs ago) to cover winch hole. Opinions?
-New right headlight Lens makes my original left lens look like the antique that it is!
Had no idea how faded and dingy these got till new one was installed.
Anyone have a good restoring method for old lenses?
RJ
FINALLY..... Got my CTD back!
-Don't like the Road Armor as much as the UTE, but it's growing on me!
-70 lbs heavier is a negative but the powder coating is nicest I've ever seen!
-RAM Logo plate (bgt 7 yrs ago) to cover winch hole. Opinions?
-New right headlight Lens makes my original left lens look like the antique that it is!
Had no idea how faded and dingy these got till new one was installed.
Anyone have a good restoring method for old lenses?
RJ
Looks great RJ!!
there are all sorts of how to videos on youtube to shine up the lenses with toothpaste! also, the auto parts stores carry the kits and I think a lot of auto detail shops charge 20-40 to shine em up.
there are all sorts of how to videos on youtube to shine up the lenses with toothpaste! also, the auto parts stores carry the kits and I think a lot of auto detail shops charge 20-40 to shine em up.
Wasn't my truck... it's been in the body shop for 6 weeks.
They are 315/75/16's, Pro Comp, A/T, EXTREMES.
RJ
They are 315/75/16's, Pro Comp, A/T, EXTREMES.
RJ
-I'm at 30,000 miles and I'd say at least another 10,000 is still there.
-The traction is excellent.... I suspect it's the directional tread (just a calculated guess).
-They would not do for heavy towing but for my hauling drums (never much more than 1000 lbs over gross wt.) they have worked well.
-They are very quiet on the hwy!
Opps - my mistake... they are 315/75/17's (I corrected above).
RJ
It fits! Woo-Hoo
After dealing with various injuries and steroid injections... I FINALLY got around to getting the NAV unit installed. Now I can finish up the prep and paint work. Also got my Lazersmith triple pillar pod on.




