Fifth wheel height
I finally hooked up my fifth wheel and the nose is too high. I have made all the adjustments to the hitch seven inches of clearance. I also added 400 pounds of weight behind the hitch. I still need to lower the rear of the truck by about 1 to 2 inches for the trailer to be close level. Flipping the axles on the fifth wheel is not an option. I weighed the two axles on the FW the rear is 5100 pounds and the front is 4200. I took the truck to a spring shop and they said I could remove the two spacer bars and drop the back end by 1.25 inches. My question is do these bars serve any purpose or they just cosmetic to jack the rear up. I asked the dealership and they are clueless. Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks Steve

 

Lotsa guys also flip the trailer axles under the springs to gain a few inches on that end.

 

Have you tried filling the Potable water tank. If it is forward of the 5VR wheels it will add weight to you pin and help bring it down some.
Your truck should go down about 2-3" with the 5VR attached. The other option and question is what type of 5VR hitch do you have and have you adjusted the pinbox as far up as it can go?

 

Wetspirit took the spacers off the leaf springs on his 2500. Do a search for author. Looks like an easy solution and is reversible if it doesn't work properly.

 

Black spacer bars only job is add or lower ride height. Had mine in and out, real easy to do you don't even have to take tires off.

 

solved this problem in the past by going to larger wheel tire combo on the trailer..its not only the cheapest solution its the easiest to put back to original

 

Hey Steve, I pulled mine out for a more level look although it is still higher in the back than front but takes a tape to prove it.
I think they are there so the truck doesn't sag too much when loaded heavy.

 

I moved those spacers from the bottom of the spring pack to the top (above the main leaf). If I ever want to put them back, everthing is still there. Also, I didn't have to find shorter bolts.

 

I tried moving those spacers last night and ran into a problem with the bolts that go through the springs. The nuts were rusted to the bolts and I could not remove them. My impact wrench wouldn't spin the nuts. I got my breaker bar out and was barely able to get the nuts to budge, but even when they did move the round head of the bolt on the bottom of the springs twisted with the nut.

How did you guys get these nuts off? What's a good product to loosen the rust? Did you use a nut cutter to cut the nut off and use new nuts? How did you keep the bolt from spinning with the nut when the bolt has a round head?

 

Vise Grips...

Start here..... http://www.klenger.net/dodge/lowerin...d/slide01.html

Gerry Drake

 

Wow, that write up is hands down one of the best I have EVER seen. Whoever made that, hats off to you!!!!

 

Matt400 was the first, or the orginal one I know of to loose the spacers. You should notice a difference when you decide to do it. Completely reversable if you don't like it. Takes about a hour or so with right shop tools. I "likes" the more level look an especially the cheap mod price.

 

So am I the only one who had an issue with the nuts being rusty and siezed to the bolt that goes through the springs? If not, how did you break loss and remove the nut from the bolt?

 

Vise Grip on the round stud and impact hammer on the nut.

 

I had same problem with 5er
#1 Why is spring over not an option?
#2 You can get larger rims and tires for 5er to raise it up
#3 if you remove spacers in spring pack you will not be able to remove disc brake caliper when time for brake job
#4 On my 5er I went spring over on trailer and trailer sat level but only 3-3/4 to 4" clearance at rear corners of p.u. bed so I installed 2" leveling kit in front of truck and since pivot point is rear axle I now have about 5-1/2" clearance at rear corners of p.u bed and 5er is level and I no longer hit 5er with corners of p.u. bed