Not true, here is a pic with no blocks and the caliper removed:

 

iginally posted by DAYTRIPPER63 [/i]
[B]I had same problem with 5er


#3 if you remove spacers in spring pack you will not be able to remove disc brake caliper when time for brake job


What? What do the spacers have to do with the calipers?

Wetspirit

 

Nothing...some thought that with the spacers removed you couldn't remove the top rear caliper bolt.

It's true that it won't come all the way out of the caliper but it does come all the way out of the threads for caliper removal.

 

Springs moved to the top of the axle will raise the center of gravity on the trailer and alter the towing characteristics. On a smaller trailer, perhaps, but not for me on our 35' 5'er. Straight and level roads, maybe, but not in the mountains or on the coast. Too tippy. Higher to climb into when parked also

Larger wheels ??.... the space between the tires on a multi axle trailer will be diminished accordingly, perhaps even interfering, and in our case, we already have 16" wheels/tires.

As Matt explained, the brake removal is a non-issue.

Removal of the spacers is to me a slam dunk decision. Just my opinion, of course.

 

Someone asked what the spacers were for. Same axle, etc on the 2500 (HO & 600) & 3500. As best I remember, the 3500s don't have the spacers. Instead it's a full spring pack.

 

the 3500's have them also, they just add overloads on top of main pack. I am the opposite, I need mine taller, can I move the spacer that is between the main and overload pack to under the axle? I think it will lift my truck slightly and give me more travel before the overloads come into action.

 

Axle flip is $250. I just paid $400 for set of RV tires. I would have to ditch those, buy new ones plus the larger wheels to go with them (probably $700 by the time I'd be thru). I don't see how that's cheaper. Besides, how much height would it gain - two, maybe three inches? The axle flip gives me 5-6" and at $250, it seems like the best bang for the buck as well.

Neil

 

Well, last night I attempted it again. Was prepared with a higher torque impact wrench, Liquid wrench and my crescent wrench to hold the botton of the round bolt while removing the nut from the top. Started on the drivers side. It worked great on one of the bolts. The other nut is stuck to the bolt so bad that it sheared the teeth off of my crescent wrench while the nut and bolt spun together. I don't usually swear, but I was getting really close.

I believe someone mentioned cutting an edge into the round bottom of the bolts to aid in gripping with the crescent wrench. What would you use to do this? A recipricating saw? Has anyone tried cutting an edge into the bottom of the bolt?

 

Geeze! I hate it when things don't go as planned. How about cutting off one end with a torch, or if no torch you should be able to cut the bottom head with a new hack saw blade.

Might be time for a few words....sometimes helps.

Remember to do ONE and replace it before doing the second so that the stack stays together.

 

Get a torch and heat the nut. It'll come right off. You might have to heat it several times while loosening.

Other option, like you mentioned earlier, is to use a nut-splitter.

 

Thanks for the suggestions. I'm gonna wait for awhile until I have several hours available and the weather is cooler so I can shut my garage door (the mosquitos are horrible around where I live). Having a sweat/deet mixture dripping in your eyes while fighting a stubborn bolt and trying to keep mosquitos from sucking your blood dry makes for unpleasant working conditions.

 

Why don't you just block the trailer axles and move on? My GN Horse trailer had this clearance problem. The manufacturer added 16" wheels/tires and a 1" block for about $300.00 and I now have 7" of clearance. THe trailer pulls fine and when I sell it, removing the blocks is an inexpensive job. Now if you are looking for a project .....

Just my opinion

 

you say its to tall i say it not tall enough