Just started noticing that my 6 prong trailer plug is loose in my female end in the bed of my truck. My cleareance lights weren't working so i wiggled the plug, if i push it up and hold it, they will work. There is a lot of play in there, more than what i would say is normal. Is there any tricks out there or am i stuck on replacing it? I am wanting to avoid re doing everything but i think i may have to.
thanks for the help
Eric

 

They get loose and corroded. I like to replace them every couple of years. There's probably a fair amount of voltage drop across those terminals by now.

 

I hate to say it but I would get a new set from a Big Rig. They are much higher quality
and will last forever.

my .02

 

That's true. I don't know why nobody makes a 7-pin RV-style connector in a nice cast aluminum body instead of crappy plastic or cheesy tin.

 

There is nothing wrong with quality plastic plugs thermally sealed, large truck plugs are used regularily and while most pickups plugs are not. Electrolytic grease for electrical terminals is available any where they sell lighting/wiring products- use it regularily and you too wiil fine a decrease in plug maintenance as it helps seal out road spray and mud. Bulldog products are made in Calgary and sell a line of good quality plastic thermally sealed plugs including RV style with coil cords just like big trucks. Problem is most RVers enjoy paying for $5 plugs and wont spend the money on Bulldog products. After owning large trucks for oilfield, logging and highway cheap junk is directly relative to how many roadside repairs you will be doing. RVers are not subject to DOT tickets for non-compliance of lighting on a regular basis, so quick cheap fixes are "good enough". Noncompliance tickets in big trucks are costly and time wasting, one soon learns spend the extra on the materials and not the tickets and then still have to do the repair again and again. When RVing my time is spent playing, I fixed the lights at home properly the first time with quality materials and I am sure the rest of us on the highway appreciate if others would do this too. RV suppliers do sell a lot of over priced junk that unsuspecting clients pay for without knowledge of better methods of repairing things, but there are those who will not go the extra to prevent problems tomorrow they just need it today. PK

 

Thanks for the help fellas. Any one got a site where i can find a good quality "big rig" plug??

 

PKennedy- I hadn't heard of Bulldog products, where can you find them? I usually use Pollack connectors, but if there's a better option out there I'd like to see it. As for dielectric grease, I've found its use here to be a big help.

 

I am not sure which truck parts dealer has them in Calgary but check with Traction Heavy Truck parts or Greggs Distributors if you can't access them from there I will get my supplier out here in hicksville (Partco) to give me a direct number for you guys and maybe set up a mail order system with them. The coil cord with molded 7 pin RV plug cost me $68.00 but it is made with Arctic-Flex industrial cable and stretches to 12' from 2' in -30 weather. I mount junction boxes (industrial trailer with color code on terminal strip) on all my trailers, I usually re-wire most of my trailers with Arctic-Flex and 2 more junction boxes. The 2nd box goes just above the trailer brake connections and 3rd is just before all my rear tail light connections this provides a direct ground to everything and an easy trouble shooting point at the terminal box studs. The direct ground goes to the truck directly and eliminates all the corrosion/ impedence problems in frame grounding systems. The problem I found with big rig plugs is you will have to carry an adapter to move other people's trailers or rentals, electrolytic grease is cheaper. Possibly I can post some pictures for you guy's. PK