autocrash

Hey Guys,

I've been looking for a part time tow vehicle for some fairly heavy stuff (sailboats - 10,000 lbs plus trailer ) as well as use as a daily driver. I'm looking for a diesel, 4wd, probably 94 - 99-ish, and a decent manual transmission. Being that I currently drive a 94 Chevy C1500, I started looking at the bigger chevy trucks first, but nothing had a towing capacity greater than 10,000 lbs (according to autos.msn.com anyway).
For some reason, the two big dodges have towing capacity of 13,000 lbs (give or take), so what is the big difference between the 2500 and the 3500 (other than obviously DRW, which would make daily driver use difficult)? What is it I'm missing here?

Any thoughts appreciated!

Matt

JohnX

If this is more a daily driver than a tow rig, definetely go with the 2500. The 3500 would be nice, but I hate dually truck for running around town.

I have a short bed 2500 and I have upgraded tires, airbags, etc to increase load capability. I fell completely comfortable towing 10k. Not sure how much higher I would go, but 10k happens to be what I pull. Handles nice and I don't feel like I need more truck.

If you stick with a 94-98 12 valve cummins, they are beasts and the upgrades are pretty cheap.

You might try the classifieds on here, may find one thats already upgraded and save yourself the trouble.

Pirate

Your question has been asked many times and I have always read the reply to be the 3500 has an extra leaf spring or 2. The 3500 is available in single rear wheel as well as dual rear wheels. I towed more than 10K with my old '99 2500 with out problems. I did add airbags to help though.

Good luck with your search.

ellerman

For the model years 94-99 you couldn't get a single rear wheel 3500. If you are only going to tow in the 10-12,000lb range a 2500 is more than sufficient. I tow 16,000 with my 2500 4x4 manual trans. but I do have quite a few upgrades to make the truck more stable and help slow the package down.

RobG

In the 2nd gens, the 2500 and 3500 are mechanically identical except for the dual rear wheels. The 3500 might have the extra leaf spring but that'd be it. Even the rear axles are the same.

Rob

RowJ

Matt, Welcome to the DTR!

If you're under 15,000# total and daily driving it also....do the 2500. Just add Air Bags.
If it still feels a bit unstable when towing ... add traction bars. They make a surprising difference for anti sway in corners and for stable handling.

You say looking at 94-99's? Another decision you need to make is 12v vs 24v. 94-98's are 12v, and mechanical.
85.5-02 are 24v and the electronic models. 98.5 was the changeover and the yr they went to 4 wheel disk brakes (earlier yrs can be converted).

RJ

FunFinder5

What's your price range and what area are you in?

Also, don't the 3500's have lower rear gear ratios most of the time compared to the 2500's? It's not very common to see a 3500 with 3:54 rear end ratio like some 2500's have is it? It does seem to be more common around here to see Gen1 2500's with the overload leafs like the 3500's have, though.

Here's a nice one I found in auto trader that seems to have pretty much everything you want:
http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.js...standard=false

AggieJustin

Actually, '01.5 was the switch to 4 wheel disc brakes. '98.5-'01 still had front discs and rear drums.

CTD NUT

Not quite.

2nd gen 2500's have a D70 or a D80 with a stick. All 3500's have a wider D80 with larger brakes and contact overload springs. The actual main leafs appear to be visually the same.

CTD NUT

Nope. On 2nd gens, 3.54 is the standard ratio for 2500 and 3500's. 4.10 is the option for both.

RowJ

Thanks for the factual correction.
I knew that. Just not in the am ..... before coffee!

RJ

autocrash

Thanks for all the help guys!

I'm surprised at how similar the 2500 and 3500 models are... I'm just looking at this point (waiting on the right deal... that autotrader truck posted by FunFinder5 looks pretty good.. but I'm a bit too broke for that right now) My planned price is ~$5000.00, but it all depends on how much I can get for my existing truck...

Also, I'm in Canada, so a truck in texas might be pushing it a little... I'd consider it though... lol... I do hate rust!

Thanks again,

Matt

cLAYH

Not sure where in Canada you are but you'll have a tough time in alberta finding a decent 2nd gen for $5000 unless you can settle for a standard cab, 2wd.

I've been looking for a 4wd for a while for a friend and haven't had much success.

boostjunkie1

TEXAS.... I would fly there and get a truck that has NO Rust Waaaaayyyyy before I would buy a rusted out piece of junk......... Look out for a 53 block, and go with a 5spd with the 5th gear nut upgrade done. There are allot of used trucks in Texas and the deep south that should work for you. Get the 2500 and add air bags + anti sway bars. Upgrade the brakes to all disks and run a load range E tire on a 17" Rim. You will be good to go!!!!!

beech

Matt,

The difference is how much weight you can put in the bed as related to a 5th wheel or gooseneck hitch. Study the Dodge specifications to see the difference. Look for payload, towing weight will be the same. I only buy the 3500 trucks, single rear wheel is available. While studying specs. you can see the difference in payload weight between SRW & DRW as well as the 2500 vs. 3500. It is not what everyone thinks or their opinion, it is what the specifications say.