Tongue weight question
Tongue weight question
Currently I am towing with the factory hitch rated at 1000/10000 with a weight distribution hitch. I also have airbags in the back. My W.D. Hitch is rated at 1000/10000 T.W. and trailer weight. I am looking at a travel trailer that weighs in at 7400 empty and 9500 gvwr,so it falls within the hitch ratings, but the tongue weight is 1065lbs. Am I ok with my current set-up or do I need to upgrade my hitch and receiver assemblies?
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Currently I am towing with the factory hitch rated at 1000/10000 with a weight distribution hitch. I also have airbags in the back. My W.D. Hitch is rated at 1000/10000 T.W. and trailer weight. I am looking at a travel trailer that weighs in at 7400 empty and 9500 gvwr,so it falls within the hitch ratings, but the tongue weight is 1065lbs. Am I ok with my current set-up or do I need to upgrade my hitch and receiver assemblies?
That is from the label. It could be lighter than that, or it could be heavier with the propane bottles, but I think in reality it is going to be off a 100 or so lbs. I figure either I am good to go or not. If it was 1200lbs or more I would worry, but is another 65lbs or so really a big deal? I figure the manufacturers are conservative in their ratings and the hitches/receivers should handle the weight fine. I just want to get some opinions on those that might know better than me. Thanks!!
Assuming that the OEMs are conservative in their ratings, I would also assume that the trailer maker is shaving pounds off their weights as well.
Your best bet is to weigh the rig on a CAT scale then drop the trailer and reweigh just the truck. That will tell the tale.
Your best bet is to weigh the rig on a CAT scale then drop the trailer and reweigh just the truck. That will tell the tale.
Are you sure the ratings are 1000/10,000?? I thought the oem hitch was 1200/12,000 on 3rd gens.
I upgraded mine to a Putnam XDR class V because my tongue weight is heavier...(like 1700lbs). But im pretty sure the OEM hitch is 1200.
And even before I switched out the hitch, I had towed my trailer with the oem and it did fine. I just changed it for insurance. I wouldn't worry at all about the weights you are referring to.
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I upgraded mine to a Putnam XDR class V because my tongue weight is heavier...(like 1700lbs). But im pretty sure the OEM hitch is 1200.
And even before I switched out the hitch, I had towed my trailer with the oem and it did fine. I just changed it for insurance. I wouldn't worry at all about the weights you are referring to.
..
To be honest I am not sure what the factory hitch is rated for...I assumed it was the same as my '02. I'll check tomorrow. Thanks for all the opinions everyone, It makes me feel a little more at ease.
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10k lbs is with the WDH properly set up (impossible without certified scale readings). My trailer weighed about the same as yours. The key is how heavy the truck is when loaded for travel as that determines the trailer weight allowable which is a function of Tongue Weight versus remaining payload capacity.
Your trailer may be marginal if truck payload is high and trailer is near GVWR in re proper towing dynamics.
Your DODGE Owners Manual overrides any labelling on any hitch.
It wouldn't hurt to have a more HD hitch receiver -- there is always the question that some lightly-built receivers may flex with a tight bar setting on a heavy trailer -- but if you are within limits as derived from scale numbers then it ought to be allright.
Your trailer may be marginal if truck payload is high and trailer is near GVWR in re proper towing dynamics.
Your DODGE Owners Manual overrides any labelling on any hitch.
It wouldn't hurt to have a more HD hitch receiver -- there is always the question that some lightly-built receivers may flex with a tight bar setting on a heavy trailer -- but if you are within limits as derived from scale numbers then it ought to be allright.
I am towing my toy hauler with the factory hitch and the trailer is rite at the limits. The trailer is rated at 1200 pounds toung wt but I garontee its more like 16-1800 pounds. Empty the trailer is suposed to be around 7500# but its actaulay much more than that and then when loaded with my ATVs and 100 gallons of watter it gets real heavy real fast. I have a Equalizer brand WD hitch rated at 1200 pounds and even with that set extra tite it sets my 3500 on the overloads. The hitch has 2 3/4" bolts that hold it together and this summer I sheared one off. I dont like messing with the WD hitch any more so I am seriously looking into trading for a 5th wheel. You will be fine with the factory hitch but it does get old messing with the WD setup.
You will be fine with the factory hitch but it does get old messing with the WD setup.
Why a certified scale is needed:
1] Weigh truck
2] Deduct trailer size from payload deduction
3] Eliminate some trailers from consideration thereby
A 5'er puts 22% of trailer weight on the truck. A conventional loads 75% of TW (13-15% trailer weight) onto truck. Trailer weight is the problem, NOT hitch type.
Trailer size/weight determines tow vehicle . . . NOT the other way around, if you want a better rule of thumb to work with. The recommendation is to choose the trailer first, and the tow vehicle based on that.
A scale is the only way to find out. Period.
.
Why a certified scale is needed:
1] Weigh truck
2] Deduct trailer size from payload deduction
3] Eliminate some trailers from consideration thereby
A 5'er puts 22% of trailer weight on the truck. A conventional loads 75% of TW (13-15% trailer weight) onto truck. Trailer weight is the problem, NOT hitch type.
Trailer size/weight determines tow vehicle . . . NOT the other way around, if you want a better rule of thumb to work with. The recommendation is to choose the trailer first, and the tow vehicle based on that.
A scale is the only way to find out. Period.
.
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