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Slide in Camper in my future...any concerns

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Old Oct 24, 2005 | 10:40 AM
  #16  
Jeff in TD's Avatar
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From: Oregon
Also, regarding using it off the truck... From what I understand there are some makes that recommend that the floor be supported if the tanks are full...
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Old Oct 25, 2005 | 09:18 PM
  #17  
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From: Albuquerque, NM
Another question

If I'm going to tow a boat while camper is loaded, are the style that have the drop down in the back not going to work? I suppose with models without a drop down, I will have to use some extended hitch to get past the portion of the camper that hangs out of the bed.

Comments please.

Ron
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Old Oct 25, 2005 | 10:11 PM
  #18  
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From: Calgary, Alberta, CANADA
The the problem with tying your camper to the box of the truck is that its sheet metal and not designed to have the kind of forces exerted on it by a camper being held down at 60mph over bumps/railway tracks etc. Mounting to the frame gives a much more secure mounting point and saves the stress on the body. My .02.
On the other topic of an extended hitch, look to tork lift again, they have a double receiver set up to handle 10000lbs., fairly pricey (and heavy), but effective.
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Old Oct 25, 2005 | 10:56 PM
  #19  
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From: Northwest, Minnesota USA
Originally Posted by RickCJ
Most states don't allow riding in the camper, it's not safe!!!
Not trying to start an arguement over safety of riding in a camper, but I checked some RV sites that summarize state highway rules and only found 4 states that outright ban it.
Pennsylvania allows it.

-John
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Old Oct 25, 2005 | 11:09 PM
  #20  
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From: Northwest, Minnesota USA
Originally Posted by tweeter
I also have an Arctic Fox and couldn't be happier. My only suggestion is DO NOT cheap out on the tie downs. Spend the money on tork lifts and forget about it. If someone suggests anchoring the camper to box of your truck with some type of bracket, run away, same with hooks into the side of your rear bumper for the rear tie downs. Set it up properly and you'll get years of trouble free use out of the camper, and have less headaches at the same time. Good luck with your search.
I wanted to go with a Torklift setup, but my 2wd and fiberglass running boards would have put the bars less than 6" off the ground. I would hook them every trip.
I went with the Happijac system that bolt THROUGH the truck bed to an internal frame that bolts to the bed mounts. The bumper mount system is kinda springy, but a 1" wall square tube between bolt & frame stiffened it right up.

-John
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Old Oct 25, 2005 | 11:29 PM
  #21  
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From: Northwest, Minnesota USA
Originally Posted by siotwo
If I'm going to tow a boat while camper is loaded, are the style that have the drop down in the back not going to work? I suppose with models without a drop down, I will have to use some extended hitch to get past the portion of the camper that hangs out of the bed.

Comments please.

Ron
My wife & I went through the same questions you have posted on convenience, portability, and towability.
We found a 1989 model 8½' Cascade (company out of business) camper for a very fair price. It is fully self contained, in excellent condition (no water leaks), and all the appliances function. A bit of a squeeze with 4 of us at times, but we handle it well. It hauls very nicely plus I don't have any problem towing a trailer.
Airbags were a must as I don't have factory overloads.

I think you mentioned short bed. The couple that sold us the camper had a short bed Ford and towed a boat & trailer without any problem.

Good luck

-John
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Old Oct 25, 2005 | 11:52 PM
  #22  
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From: Albuquerque, NM
Talking

Momma's got another bun in the oven

We took ept and it says "here comes #2"

Won't change the camper, if I hurry that is!!!!
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