Rerfrigerator Not Working
Rerfrigerator Not Working
Hi everyone. The last time we took our fifth wheel out we noticed that the refrigerator was not cooling anymore. I was wondering if anyone could point out a good starting point to diagnosing the problem. I am a pretty good shade tree mechanic, but have never worked on something like this and have no idea where to get started and where to go from there. Any help would be appreciated. By the way, the fridge can run on either gas, or electric, and it's in a 99 Springdale by keystone. Thanks!
John
John
Let me suggest that you drop into the discussion forums over at iRV2.com and post your questions in the RV Systems and Appliances section (signup is free). There are some excellent RV techs over there who can walk you through the troubleshooting process and/or point you to some good resource material. They will want to know the make of your refrigerator, though (probably either a Norcold or Dometic), so you might want to have this available.
Good luck!!
Rusty
Good luck!!
Rusty
I don't know much..but the typical first step is: Is the heater box getting hot? If it's getting hot and the fridge ain't getting cold....it's toast and needs a new cooling unit. Try with all various power (LPG, 110v, 12v if applicable).
Re: Rerfrigerator Not Working
Originally posted by jbevly
Hi everyone. The last time we took our fifth wheel out we noticed that the refrigerator was not cooling anymore. I was wondering if anyone could point out a good starting point to diagnosing the problem. I am a pretty good shade tree mechanic, but have never worked on something like this and have no idea where to get started and where to go from there. Any help would be appreciated. By the way, the fridge can run on either gas, or electric, and it's in a 99 Springdale by keystone. Thanks!
John
Hi everyone. The last time we took our fifth wheel out we noticed that the refrigerator was not cooling anymore. I was wondering if anyone could point out a good starting point to diagnosing the problem. I am a pretty good shade tree mechanic, but have never worked on something like this and have no idea where to get started and where to go from there. Any help would be appreciated. By the way, the fridge can run on either gas, or electric, and it's in a 99 Springdale by keystone. Thanks!
John
The thing that really ticked me was I work for a power generation plant and one of my good friends? who I gave some pipe to in the past, he worked at the local office and he has experince on the the darn things did not have time to check it out and he might look at it if I would pull it out. I hope he wonts some thing in the future and a few others like him.... Jim
Does it work on 110v and not on LP? If so, you likely need to clean the burner, oraface (sp?) tube, and perhaps the flue. Does the burner produce a nice, deep blue surrounded by pale blue flame but the unit doesn't cool? Then you may be due for a cooling unit (not cheap).
Running an absorption refrigerator a bit out of level for an hour or so can ruin the cooling unit. Burner/flue problems seem to crop up after storage- dust, insect nest, or whatever.
That link posted above is a good resource, and you can download diagnostic/repair info on your specific brand. I got an education on these things recently to help a friend with a Norcold.
Running an absorption refrigerator a bit out of level for an hour or so can ruin the cooling unit. Burner/flue problems seem to crop up after storage- dust, insect nest, or whatever.
That link posted above is a good resource, and you can download diagnostic/repair info on your specific brand. I got an education on these things recently to help a friend with a Norcold.
If it's a Dometic fridge, chances are it's the control board failed. Common problem, and NOT worth putting in another Dometic card, as they are all junk.
Most people replace the board with one from this outfit; http://www.dinosaurelectronics.com/
these replacement boards work better, and work much longer than the factory boards. Kinda like BOMBing your fridge!
Most people replace the board with one from this outfit; http://www.dinosaurelectronics.com/
these replacement boards work better, and work much longer than the factory boards. Kinda like BOMBing your fridge!
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I saw your thread on IRV2... Those guys are right, the powdery stuff does indicate a leaking cooling unit. If the rest of the unit is in good shape, a new or rebuilt cooling unit will be cheaper than replacing the whole thing.
I've replaced the cooling unit on my Norcold Fridge.... a couple of thoughts....
1 - leaking coolant usually can be smelled... it amonia (sp) based and you can smell it when the thing rusts out.... They have amonia, hydrogen, and water in them..... and run at about 350 psi.... They start to self destruct when they are put into service as they rust from the inside out....
This change out is about 80% of the back of the fridge.. the front and inside looked great so we decided to go for the fix....
2 - after I replaced the cooling system..... got it wholesale from a nice company in IA I think, I had problem with the wire connecting from the switches to the control box... a simple 6 conductor cable like a phone cable with a plug on both ends... one plug was damaged in the "take apart put back together" phase... sorted that out and it works great...
I'd do it again.... now that I've done it.... I had the thing apart last winter when we don't use it..... too much snow to pull it around....
Hope this helps...
1 - leaking coolant usually can be smelled... it amonia (sp) based and you can smell it when the thing rusts out.... They have amonia, hydrogen, and water in them..... and run at about 350 psi.... They start to self destruct when they are put into service as they rust from the inside out....
This change out is about 80% of the back of the fridge.. the front and inside looked great so we decided to go for the fix....
2 - after I replaced the cooling system..... got it wholesale from a nice company in IA I think, I had problem with the wire connecting from the switches to the control box... a simple 6 conductor cable like a phone cable with a plug on both ends... one plug was damaged in the "take apart put back together" phase... sorted that out and it works great...
I'd do it again.... now that I've done it.... I had the thing apart last winter when we don't use it..... too much snow to pull it around....
Hope this helps...
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