Discovered the equalizer shackles on our 5er badly worn with really elongated holes... So time to replace them. I plan to replace the equalizers, shackles, spring bushings, and all the corresponding bolts. I'm having trouble measuring the shackle size and equalizer size so I thought I would take one side apart to make sure I get the right size replacement parts (for example - I can't tell if I have 2 5/8 or 2 9/16 shackles). So two questions:

How important is it to match the measurements exactly to the old parts as long as all the new parts match? I.e. 2 5/8 vs 2 9/16?

What's the best way to access all the parts? Here's what I was thinking and would appreciate feedback as to safety, effectiveness, etc...

Doing one side at a time,

Jack the axles up enough to remove the tires as if changing a flat...

Place two jack stands under the frame in front of the axle and two more under the frame aft of the axle...

Remove the tires...

Let the pressure off the axle jacks to relieve tension on the suspension - assuming it won't relieve enough to touch the ground...

Change out the equalizer, shackles, and bolts...

Then change out the fore and aft spring eye bolts and bushings...

Then jack the axles back up enough to reinstall the wheels and remove the jack stands...

Then do the other side.

I presume if I keep at least one point of attachment at each spring nothing will "spring" out of place on me.

So, fire away... Am I on the right track with this plan or should I drag the whole thing up to the RV place and pay them to do it??

 

Here is a very good write up on replacing axles and shackles for a 5er and how to do it. You may need to buy a temporary membership to this site for $2.95, but it would be worth it for the write up and pictures.
http://www.turbodieselregister.com/f...lacements.html
Jim W.

 

If you have Lippert axles you should research them before doing this. Lippert axles have thinner tube walls and don't allow jacking on them as it crushes the tube and causes axle failure. I didn't believe it myself until I did the research, so I plan to change out the axles on my new 2012 5ver, just waiting for the weather to improve.

 

I've changed out my axles and springs,etc.. Heck I've built many trailers from scratch.You're on the right track. There is really no preset tensions on them except when loaded by the trailer weight. Just go with your plan and you 'll be fine. When you jack up one side put the jack under the equalizer and there will be no undue stress on the axles. Then use jack stands to hold the trailer weight while you let off the tension and unzip the bolts. It ain't rocket science, just common sense. The best thing though is jack both sides to avoid any push from the opposite side while lining up the new stuff. Going to 2 5/8 won't hurt a thing but you might need to ream a hole or two.

 

I just did mine twice. Had the wrong shackles the first time.

With the trailer parked on a reasonably flat spot, you can chock the wheels on one side, then put a jack under the frame just behind the rear axle on the other side and pick it up just till the tires have no weight on them. I use a little bottle jack for that. Leave the load on the jack, but put a frame stand behind it just in case the jack fails just at the wrong time.

Then you can pull the pins one at a time. Replace the nylon bushings and bolts, and the shackles, rockers, and bolts in the middle. You can slightly raise and lower the side with the jack on the frame to line up the bolts. You shouldn't have to put any pressure of any kind on the axle tubes.

Be sure the bolts are tightened properly. They should not bind.

It's about a 15 minute job if you have an air wrench.

This method twists the frame a bit. If you can hook the trailer up to the tow vehicle, and set the brakes on that vehicle, you have a 3 point no twist situation, and it's actually safer than chocking the other wheels.

hope it helps

 

Most of the things you want to replace come with the Dexter Equa-Flex suspension upgrade, and you get wet bolts to replace the regular ones in it now. Also the kit has brass bushings instead of the plastic ones most RV manufactures use stock. Check Dexter's website for the replacement parts.

 

Thanks for all the great ideas and advice. Trying to gather parts then I'll give it a shot.

 

I saw that, now that I've put all the plastic crap and dry bolts in. Next time, though, it'll be different.

 

There is a system out there made by More Ride heaver shackles and brass with cerks to greese the hole set up is plug and play one side at a time sure wish I had known before I changed out My cedar creek Next time lol I am new here so hellow all ...John

 

Thanks again everyone. I had to put this off because of knee problem, but finally got around to it today. I ended up going with the Dexter kit - it was about twice the price of the dry parts one at a time but as was pointed out - is greasable and came with everything I needed. Test drive afterwards seemed much smoother and definitely quieter - no more squeaks at every corner and pot hole. My old stuff was a time bomb, so I'm glad I noticed it. Could have been bad if that one shackle had finally come all the way apart at highway speeds. So I feel stupid, lucky and now smarter... all at the same time. Here's a couple pictures of what I had...