question on gooseneck
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Joined: Aug 2002
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From: Kerrville eastern new mexico, west texas
yea their all made like that unless homemade and the hitch adjustment was what i was talking about. and uless his trailer is 10 ft long raising it 6 inches at the hitch wont make like a wedge trailer. all most all the trailers that haul loads down here are gn
I would see if someone could build an adjustable neck for it. my dad had a couple new goosenecks and you could adjust the hitch it self up and down. I dont think you would have to cut the whole neck off your trailer to make it work but it is pretty low I looked at the pics also. before I would cut it all up I would get another trailer or get you an old flatbed truck thats my .02 cents
If the trailer in question is the orange flat-bed I saw in your gallery, there are really only TWO solutions :
1. cut the entire neck assembly off the trailer and build a proper high neck that "necks over".
2. ditch your sheetmetal bed in favor of a steel flat; you will thank me later.
Trailers designed as that one were never meant to be hooked to trucks with high bed-sides.
Sooner or later, you will forget and cut across a swag, or drop over a steep driveway, and then the whole side of your bed will look like a big beech-tree fell across it.

It doesn't show up well in the picture; but, you can see what I mean by "neck-over".
I built that trailer from scratch and it is high enough to clear any standard bed.
One other bad mistake many make when building a trailer, and the store-bought ones are just as bad as any, is to not allow enough distance from ball-center to front of trailer structure; I have hooked to several that either would "kiss" the corners of my flat, or that would come against it hard and not allow a turn to be made.
Stuff like that needs to be checked out before moving a new-to-you truck/trailer combination; a crash at the end of the drive-way is a little late to be inspecting.
1. cut the entire neck assembly off the trailer and build a proper high neck that "necks over".
2. ditch your sheetmetal bed in favor of a steel flat; you will thank me later.
Trailers designed as that one were never meant to be hooked to trucks with high bed-sides.
Sooner or later, you will forget and cut across a swag, or drop over a steep driveway, and then the whole side of your bed will look like a big beech-tree fell across it.

It doesn't show up well in the picture; but, you can see what I mean by "neck-over".
I built that trailer from scratch and it is high enough to clear any standard bed.
One other bad mistake many make when building a trailer, and the store-bought ones are just as bad as any, is to not allow enough distance from ball-center to front of trailer structure; I have hooked to several that either would "kiss" the corners of my flat, or that would come against it hard and not allow a turn to be made.
Stuff like that needs to be checked out before moving a new-to-you truck/trailer combination; a crash at the end of the drive-way is a little late to be inspecting.

Some one didn't lower the neck it had a flat deck on top of it. I cut it off becouse it was going to get into the cab.
The ball is not back that far I just back under and lowered til it touch the bed. The ball is over the axle. I have a turn over brand. I got on the web site and found they make a ball that moves it back 4" I am going to buy so i can put my cross bed tool box back in.
I talk to a metal fab person around me. showed him what i got he said to move cross braces up (has 6" c channel for cross braces) and he said to cut and get flat metal and rebuild I beam. And he said not to box the I beam he would put flat metal inside to make it thicker. I beam is 1/4 thick and the flat steel I got is 3/16 thick. I would make the center part almost 1/2" thick. He said it would hold the weight and not bend he said probly make it stronger by putting the extra flat metal in between the center.
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MrBilly
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Oct 21, 2002 09:37 PM




