I may try a shorter drop first, however I'd still like to be able to get the swaying to stop. It doesn't do it at all hardly early in the morning when I am loaded down, however as the day progresses it of course gets worse. I just want to be able to hook up each morning. I cannot back straight upto the trailer they way the warehouse is laid out. I always hook up at about a 45 degree angle to the trailer. I don't think I will be able to do that with one of those WD systems.

As for what someone asked about the mount weight rating, he didn't ask. I just told him it was for an enclosed 20ft trailer, on a class IV receiver. And I did not know any better at the time. I wasn't aware you could get a class IV mount with so many different weight limits. Chunk it up to me being a newbie. But I am learning! LOL.

Another reason I thought about getting a shorter mount, not just to help level up the trailer, was to help stabilize it. My thought was the closer the frame of the trailer is to being on the same plane as the frame of the truck, the less swaying and swerving would occur. I may be wrong in that thinking, but in my head, it makes sense.

Keep the suggestions coming. I'm going to hopefully do some purchasing tomorrow.

 

Look at a Reese Straightline wd hitch set up.

I had one for my 7000Lb travel trailer before the fiver.

The shank and ball stay in your receiver, the sway bars come out when unhooking. Not really any harder to unhook than without it when you are used to it.

 

The WD hitch I have is adjustable,up or down 1" @ a time,so I usually have alot of weight in the truck & have it set so the nose is just alittle lower than the back,I hate draggin the tail.I had a WB hitch w/bars they will stop alot of sway & saggin.
I got lucky & bought the hitch on craiglist f/$35.00,another one f/$25.00(auction)
the first one @ a flea market when I needed one really bad f$125.00 w/bars & clamps f/trailer.
I have 2 flabeds & 3-different enclosed I use so they sure come in handy & since I am usually pretty heavy the standard type of drop hitches are under rated f/my loads & might be f/you too?Your trailer is around 3K & I think most of those style hitches are rated f/5K??
Bob

 

Just a thought but are you using a 2 5/16 ball? If not and the trailer is designed for one then in the morning with lots of hitch weight it might ride Ok but as the hitch weight decreases it would move/sway around.

 

I like the look of the Reese kit. I'll do some searching tomorrow and see what kind of prices I can find. That was my main worry with that type of setup, was the ease of backing up to it in the morning. But it looks like it won't be an issue at all.

And Busboy..yes. It is made for a 2 5/16 ball and yes that is what I am using. I think it just sways so much A: just the type of trailer it is, B: how far down it is from the truck frame due to the 6" drop, C: the way it is loaded. I'm hoping the WD setup will cure all my issues. Now if I can just get my MaxBrake gain set right. I lock the tires up on the trailer like crazy. It's driving me nuts.

 

Backing into a W/D hitch is no different that what you do now... Getting the W/D gear attached takes maybe 5 minutes. Back in, drop the trailer onto the ball, lock the ball in, raise the trailer, slide the W/D arms on, set the chains on both side to the desired link, drop the trailer down again. If you have a friction sway control, it just slides onto the *****, one on the trailer, one on the W/D hitch, crank it down and your done.

When you drop off the trailer, it's the same thing, in reverse.

The first time you set everything up it might take you 20~30 minutes extra. You'll have to attach the hooks for the W/D chains on the trailer (one big set-screw) and attach the ball for the friction sway control. Then you'll have to try diffferent setting on the chain (hanging links) to level your trailer and make everything ride smoothly. Too tight (too many links hanging) and you place too much weight on your front wheels and you'll really feel the trailer. Move up one link and it's amazing how everything will smooth out.

Hopes this helps.

 

Excellet Dave. That is exactly the kind of info I need. Much appreciated! And thanks again to everyone else too!

I've been shopping now for a WD setup. I've narrowed it down to the Reese (with trunion bars, correct?) with dual cams, or the equal-i-zer.

From what I've found, the equalizer is MUCH cheaper, by nearly $200. Plus the sway is integrated, not added as an afterthought with the Reese.

I've gotten my prices from reese-hitches.com (over $600) and rvwholesalers.com for the equal-i-zer ($449).

Anyone know of any other places? Google came up with a few, but they are all in that same range. I will order it tomorrow, so if anyone has any ideas, let me know!!

Thanks!

 

one more place?
http://search.ebay.com/search/search...tch&category0=

 

Ebay has the reese for under $500...

http://http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Reese-66074-Strait-Line-Weight-Distribution-1200-Lbs_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118Q2el1247 QQcategoryZ50072QQihZ007QQitemZ170218918742QQrdZ1Q QsspagenameZWD1V

 

I have read this and something does not add up. Here is my train of thought:
1) Tow package means the truck has overload springs;
2) 7,000 trailer should have tongue weight of 800 lbs or so;
3) This should not cause noticeable sag in the rear.
4) If it does sag, the tongue weight is much more than 800#, so sway should not be much of an issue; or, the reported "sway" is in fact the hunting that the truck would exhibit when the front axle is highly offloaded by the heavy tongue and lack of WD.
My truck, with 1,500# in the bed and 1,400# tongue weight of my 10,000# trailer sags about 2" to the overloads and thats it; front lifts 0.5". With WD connected, the rear gets only 1" lower than empty and the front remains the same as empty, measured from the ground to fender edge. And, I have zero sway issues even on the highway, with semis going by.
This means to me that the enclosed trailer has the axles very far back and is loaded very nose heavy, maybe 2,000# tongue weight; or the truck does not have overloads; or it has the comfort package with one less leaf in the rear springs, so that the rear end is squishy, resulting in sway.
I think to correctly resolve this you need to weigh the truck, then the whole rig and write down every axle weight. Any highway weigh station will let you do that, and here I have done it more than once for free. This will tell you what the tongue weight is. With that, you can figure out what WD hitch you need to get, and whether or not you should upgrade your receiver.

 

I have the Reese dual cam HP wd and sway It's easy to setup and it works great for our 7000lb TT. I'm surprised your finding the equalizer $200 less. Google is your friend for low prices.