.....this is for all the haters who say it can't or shouldn't be done....

Well technically, it's a single articulating trailer.







I used a Rubicon Joint to make the coupler so everything would be "Bolted" together to make one articulating trailer. This way I won't have to upgrade to a class A license. I wanted the tongue a little longer, so after I installed the 2" receiver in the front of the ski trailer, I added a foot to the stinger that holds the 2" ball mount that I use to tow with my pickup.



Measures out 67ft long. I was hoping for 65ft, but that pesky BuckStop winch bumper sticks out almost a foot more than stock so I gave up on trying to shorten things up a bit since 65 wasn't going to happen.

I took it out on a ride tonight after I put it all together with lights and stuff and it tows pretty good. I will likely add a cheapo sway controls to cut down on the wiggle on the bumpy roads. Things may balance out once I put my wife's ski back on there too. I also want to attach the safety chains in one more spot near the center of the coupler in case of a failure, nothing will move far.

I'm also technically 500 lbs. over on my allowable 10,000lb. trailer GVW allowance on a class C license. I guess I'll have to peel off that ski trailer gvw sticker. I will never go over 2,000 lbs anyway. Big trailer GVW is 8,000 and ski will be 2,000.....10,000....legal now? LOL!

 

here to double tow the last trailers chains must be wrapped around the first trailers frame, and the first trailer i think needs to be 5er. otherwise its looks pretty good.

 

That looks like a nice setup, how do you like that Kawi ski? I have not heard to much about them..

 

That is a nice set up!

I have been wondering about doing something like that too.

My truck is a quad cab short bed, trailer is a 24ft, and then a 12ft boat. I haven't checked total lengths for each, but did not know if it was even legal in CA to tow two bumper pulls.

So for CA is there a max length that you can have?

Do they have to be "Bolted" together?

If I had a 5th wheel trailer would it be any different?

 

I can't find anything in the book about having to have the first trailer be a 5th, but it would surely tow better As long as neither are over 28 ft long, you could be 75ft. total in CA.

I know I'm pushing the law, but we'll see how it goes. I'm into it for $50 since I had all the parts lying around.

I chose to "Bolt" them together so I could avoid getting a class A that is required to tow double in CA.

 

The 260X is a pretty cool ride. It drinks 20 gals fuel per hour though, so that bites. It is better suited for the ocean due to it's hull shape, so it is kinda wasted in the fresh water lake I ride in.

The early 250X's cracked heads like crazy, but I guess they have since fixed that issue I hope! If I like it after this season, I will buy the extended warranty since if the head cracks, it is a $7500 fix by the time it's done.

 

The chains are hooked to the receiver hitch. And since it is bolted to the frame, it is part of the frame. I just want to attach them to one more spot to shorten things if there is a failure.

The jury is still out on the fiver having to be first. Can't find it in the book anywhere.

 

Did you think about flipping the rubicon joint 90 degrees and drilling another hole in the square tube to make it none articulating so when you backed the
trailer, the other trailer would back the same way as the primary trailer.

It would also let the touge move up and down on hills and differant grades.

I can't tow a double in Florida, but if I could that's the way I would have it. I would also need a battery in the second trailer and the trailer would need to have break away brakes.

I read what you said about the Class A. It seems to me that if everything is in the same line and won't sway a Class A should not be needed. But your in California. I never checked that out here.

 

If the joint was turned 90, the trailer would still be able to wiggle since the joint has 32 degrees of range. I think it would break if subjected to binding at all. I added the strap to the sides since the tube was only 3/16" thick and figured it was good to be on the safe side.

 

I'v never seen anything like that joint in the back of the trailer. Pretty interesting.

It looks like you have a Grade 8 bolt through that joint. I would be more inclined to use a grade 5. 8's are extremly strong in tension (clamping). In double shear they're pretty strong, too - as long as the joint is tight. But they tender to fracture in lateral stress. If you're joint gets stretched to 34* (like at a gas station entrance), the lateral stress could damage the bolt, leading to failure.

5's, OTOH, are not nearly as strong in tension. That's OK, because your application doesn't really require tension or clamping force. You could eliminate the nut/bolt and use a pin. In lateral stress 5's tend to deform long before they break. You'll be able to see any deformity every time you un hook it.

Carroll Smith is quoted as saying, "There's no room on a (race) car for a grade 8 bolt". I don't fully agree with that statement, as there are a few exceptions.

BUT.... I've never even seen a joint like that, much less used one. So I could be wrong.

 

Here I am at 74' (9' over legal limit) but I don't normally use the boat anymore. The other weekend I had my son's Honda 300 ATV in the bed, the camper and my 13' trailer with my RZR behind the camper. She did beautifully!!!

 

Agreed on the bolt grades. I felt the supplied grade 8 on the joint was good for that application since it was supported on both top and bottom. The bolt and joints hold up in Jeeps as suspension joints with 10's of thousands of lbs. force applied by gear multiplication. I felt the grade 5 bolts on the stinger mounts were the right application so they would bend instead. A hitch pin is soft....maybe even more so than the grade 5 bolt, so I figured that was safe.

The was I have the joint orientated now, it has 32 degrees up and down motion...more than enough. The jack would drag the ground before that could happen. 200+ degrees for turning side to side......the tool box would make contact before that.

Should be interesting........

Keep you guys updated when I get a long trip under my belt.

 

Boy, that is long. You get used to it though.

Sure is strange to look in the mirror and see the second trailer entering the intersection and the truck is out!

 

Just an update.....

Took this setup out for a weekend camping/skiing trip in September to Trinity Lake. I had my wife's ski on the trailer this time, so the ski trailer tracked straighter instead of off to the left a few inches.

Before the trip, I installed a cheap friction sway control on the ski trailer to minimize any sway. Also welded another point to shorten and tie the safety chains to in case things came apart. This way it can't really go anywhere. I didn't use the gas can rack on the ski trailer either. Figured that extra 200lbs would be better off in the bed.

Overall, it was a pretty good experience. It was 150 miles round trip on tight twisty mountain roads. I found myself trying to avoid looking at the rear trailer as it moved around a little more than the first, but that was to be expected. My average trip speed was 8 mph slower than normal, partly due to I was being more cautious, and that extra 2500lbs. put me right between 4th and 5th gears.

I have started studying for the Commercial Class A exam, since I know it will be just a matter of time before an LEO wants to have "relations" with me for not having one while operating this combo.

At least now I know it pulls fine and am ready for a trip to Lake Powell this summer. Can't wait!

 

I would find something stronger than the D links I see on the safety chaines,They won`t hold much if something does go wrong. My .02