Before using a gooseneck converter on a 5th wheel pin box, I would suggest doing a LOT of research. As a moderator on iRV2.com, I've seen a number of members post regarding damaged 5th wheel frames caused by the additional moments (torque forces) imposed by the gooseneck adapters. You can also find others who have experienced this problem on a competing Dodge/Cummins forum.

One of the RV Techs on iRV2.com queried the major 5th wheel RV manufacturers on the use of gooseneck adapters. None of them approved them, and all stated that use of such adapters would void structural warranties on the frame. A few of the RV manufacturers stated that they could custom-build gooseneck-type RVs, but their standard 5th wheel frames are not designed to function as gooseneck trailers.

Caveat emptor!!

Rusty

 

I have a 2003 dodge quad cab shortbed. I got the B&W hidden hitch. it will be 6 inches in front of the rear axle, making it useless. they will offer you a adapter hitch that will set it back 4 inches (for $295). check out the sliding hitch they mentioned. B&W won't tell you that their hitch is useless, if you call them, and then you will be out about $500 (with instll, and acc's)

 

I have a drawtite removaball and really like it. Some people tell me they have less trouble with the release freezing and sticking and so forth (as compared to the bw)
The drawtite release from the top.
You don't have to reach under the slimy dripping mud encrusted fender to release it.

Just another option.

 

is very true , call the customer service department of the manufacturer of the trailer that you own or, are going to buy. I have a 29 foot holiday rambler savoy 5er with a goosneck adapter onit , Holiday Rambler says no problems at all with the factory warranty. But others may be different.
Eric

 

Can anyone tell me what my options are for a 5er... my truck came with a WELDED in gooseneck hitch.

 

My 99 has the hidden hitch and is not welded but bolted to the frame (was installed by Ashland Hitch in Richmond Va). I personally would not let anyone weld to the frame on my truck but others have with success. My 92 had a hitch just bolted to the sheet metal in the bed. Never trusted it and only used it once to pull some tools about two miles up the road on the GN. My sons 94 has the B&W turnover and it seems to work real well. We towed my truck out to Scheids on my GN and it performed very well. Guess you have to do the research and decide on the info you get which one you end up getting. Just make sure it is installed right and enjoy.

 

Just a bit of info- the RV frame is made to support the housing unit on top and the housing unit on top becomes part of the integral structure for strength. By using a ball type hitch which puts the actual trailer connection 14-16" lower in the truck AKA longer, the torsional stress on the trailer frame is increased when pulling on the coupler point. This transfers the stress to the "gooseneck" section and will sometimes crack in the upper corners of the frame just above where the jack legs mount or the spot where the hitch is welded above the coupler. Secondly a ball coupler supports all the weight on the very top (approx. 3/4") vs a rv hitch which with the right pin coupler spreads the tongue weight over 12" of surface. A ball hitch is mounted by a 1 1/2" threaded stud max vs a pin coupler having a minimum diameter of 2" at the groove for coupling and a mounting surface of 3-8". The gentleman with the hitch mounting at 6" ahead of the axle center this is too far ahead and you will overload the front axle- 3" is about the best keeping your front axle loading to the 5200lbs it is designed for. The welding of the frame unless done properly comprimises the frame integrity by putting stress around the weld unless stress relieved by a qualified person. In 03+ the frame design became a hydro-formed box making the overall thickness of the walls less than 1/2 of the original web thickness of the old frames making weld stress much more critical and prone to stress cracking. Those big heavy hitches are designed that way for a reason as inconvenient as they are, ball hitches (farmer hitch) were a comprimise to accomadate uneven ground and bed space. I personally run a flatdeck mounted 18" commercial hitch which folds into my deck capable of supporting 9000lbs vertical and 26000lbs pulling with jaws that completely lock around the pin. Costs less than most of the "RV" multi function hitches is approved by the DOT and has never failed to close with 10-12" of difference on uneven ground. Personal choices, incorrect sales people and poor research of what is actually needed can cost you more than inconvenience, the BW unit is well built and respected but has a specific purpose. DOT specifications along with engineered RV frames and hitches are there for a purpose to protect everybody think before you comprimise please. PK

 

How long does it take to install a B&W hitch, and where can you get them online?

 

www.turnoverball.com