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Pac brake on a Cummins OR diesels in the mountains

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Old 01-16-2005, 10:10 PM
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Pac brake on a Cummins OR diesels in the mountains

Hi everyone, I asked about this under "general discussion" and it was suggested to me to ask about it here. I also asked about this a few hours ago in the rv.net fifth wheel forum and it started a heated (but friendly) debate. I don't have a solution. . .

I don't have a truck and am considering the Cummins 3500 to pull a 12,000 (MAXIMUM lb.) fifth wheel. BUT I go to the mountains primarily. I'm getting the impression that it isn't so great trying to drive a diesel on a steep grade (I have instructions on how to do this and I'm not thrilled to buy a new truck and have to go through trying so painstakingly to control it). There is debate as to whether a Pac brake on the Cummins actually DOES void the warranty or not, but just the fact that there is debate makes me not want to buy a Dodge. But there is no other diesel I want. So it's: resolve this problem or buy a gas truck.

To those of you who drive your diesels in the mountains, WHAT DO YOU DO? Do you install Pac brakes and hope they don't damage the transmission (apparently you have to add all kinds of hardware to be safe)? Do you creep down mountains while you pray? WHAT DO YOU DO? Because I'm going to have to do the same thing you are doing, and I don't want to shoot over 30,000 dollars and buy a truck before I figure out if that's acceptable to me or not!

Thanks! Eileen
Old 01-16-2005, 11:22 PM
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You can get a new truck, stick shift, with an exhaust brake! If you want an auto you need to lock the auto up for it to work, and unlock before you shift or stop or you can break your transmission. I don't think warranty will cover you breaking your automatic.

Gas engines don't have exhaust brakes! Gas engine won't hold back 12k much better.

Without an exhaust brake you will have to go down the hills slowly or you can burn up your brakes. I just pull in behind a loaded 18 wheeler and follow it down, usually pretty slow and will have something to stop me if I burn up my brakes.
Old 01-16-2005, 11:34 PM
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Dodge actually recommends the use of an exhaust brake, but for sticks only. The Jacobs brake will not void your warranty. It is approved by both DC and Cummins.

Jim
Old 01-17-2005, 12:04 AM
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I had an exh brake on another truck and now this one, It really helps and I highly recommend it. Never had one on an automatic.
Old 01-17-2005, 12:08 AM
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The Jacobs brake will not void your warranty.
Likewise, I can't imagine the PAC Brake voiding it either as it is dealer installed as well. Only for manual transmissions though.

Basically what everyone's saying is that for towing heavy in mountainous areas, a manual transmission is the way to go so you can get the benefit of having the exhaust brake. I would guess that this would hold true for Chevy and Ford as well.

Gas engine won't hold back 12k much better.
And a gas engine won't get you to the top of the hills as easily or efficiently either or hold up as well over the long term under heavy use.

From reading your previous posts, I know you abhor the idea of driving a manual transmission, but I do encourage you to test drive on first. These engines are a breeze to drive with a manual as the only way to stall one is on purpose and then you have to try pretty hard to do it. I compared both transmissions before buying my truck and decided on the manual for two reasons: 1. I felt the automatic shifted kind of rough/jerky. Mind you it wasn't towing anything, this was just a test drive. And 2. The reason the wife and I bought a diesel truck was for towing and so I wanted the extra control that a manual transmission can give you (and that goes for any brand of truck).
Old 01-17-2005, 08:21 AM
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I have a Pacbrake on my auto, BUT I also did the mods to beef up the transmission. If you do the mods to the transmission to make it strong enough, I wouldn't hesitate to get a Pacbrake. I love mine. If your truck is still in warranty, the dealer won't fix it if you break it. With the mods, though, the chances of breaking it are remote. It really depends on how bad you want to stick to the auto. I got through the Smokies just fine without the Pacbrake, but I wouldn't want to attempt the Rockies without one. People do it all the time, but I'm a "better safe than sorry" kind of guy. I'd rather risk my transmission warranty than my rig, or my life.

JMHO

DeWain
Old 01-17-2005, 08:26 AM
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With the upgrades on the new 48RE tranny, does one need to touch the tranny other than putting on the lockout switch to feel pretty comfortable with installing an Ebrake? And we keep saying Pac brake - - can't it be the Jacobs, a brake more quickly accepted by Cummins and Dodge?

Just asking 'cause I'm a hand shifter man.
Old 01-17-2005, 08:38 AM
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Thanks everyone. DPG, could you tell us what you did to strengthen your transmission on the automatic? I have that info from 2 other people and I'd like to have your list so I can compare them all. I'll also try driving a manual, but boy, I've sure hated that every time I've done it since I was about 20 (I loved shifting until I was about 20 or so!).

Thanks, Eileen
Old 01-17-2005, 08:50 AM
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The pedal pressure on the clutches in these trucks is very light. Much better then a lot of vehicles from 20 yrs ago. The Pacbrake or Jacobs or US Gear all have their qualities and set backs. Their function far outweighs any issues.

I have towed heavy with 25 trucks to date and all had an exhaust brake. All where Dodge diesels and most of them had well over 250,000 miles. One had over 400,000. All but one had the manual transmission. The 96 had the auto and I sold it within 8 months due to the plastic connectors cracking and leaking as well as the constant hunting from drive to overdrive.

Also, a manual trans with an exhaust brake and a good brake controller like the Brakesmart [fiverbob wants one] is a real nice set up for going down the steep grades. I have travelled all over in the Rockies of Canada and the USA. Be safe and watch your speed coming over a grade and all will be fine.

Its nice to see you are doing your homework before dropping the cash.

Seriously consider the manual trans.

Scotty
Old 01-17-2005, 09:19 AM
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I could have swore that the 04+ autos (with 48RE) were rated for exhaust brakes FROM THE FACTORY Nobody saw that commercial?
Old 01-17-2005, 01:59 PM
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eileeneh:

I have DTT (Diesel Transmission Technology) torque converter and valve body. This firms us the shifts, and increases line pressure to help prevent slippage under higher torque loads. I don't know what year truck you have, but if it's a second gen, I highly recommend aftermarket transmission upgrades. It doesn't have to be DTT, although they have worked very well for me, there are other quality companies offering what you would need. Also, we've been talking Pacbrake, but there are many exhaust brakes to choose from, Dodge even offers the Jacobs as a dealer add-on.

If you are buying a new truck, I can't be much help as I don't know anything about the 48RE tranny.

I hope that this helps.

DeWain

Crimedog, I seem to remember hearing that the 04 48RE were exhaust-brake-ready, but I can't say that with any degree of certainty.
Old 01-17-2005, 02:51 PM
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Thanks everyone. I'm continuing to read your messages and sort through all this. I'll try driving a manual, but don't expect to like it! Eileen
Old 01-17-2005, 04:32 PM
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Dodge even offers the Jacobs as a dealer add-on.
I think this depends on availability. My PAC Brake was installed by the dealer because the Jacobs was on back order.
Old 01-18-2005, 02:24 AM
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I think the general statement that diesels don't have the engine braking of a gasser is way overblown. No gasser is gonna hold back a 12k trailer either.

Just be careful of the speed you carry over the grade and downshift (auto or manual) early. It's more matter of gearing than "engine-braking".

E-brakes won't help much below 2500 rpm anyways.
Old 01-18-2005, 05:04 PM
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Originally posted by Rattletrap1
E-brakes won't help much below 2500 rpm anyways.
The Jacobs Ebrake works "better" at higher rpms, just like the truck accellerates better at higher rpms. However, mine works very good at all rpms, and I find it very useful at rpms down as low as 16 - 1700. In fact, I don't see all that much difference between 2500 and 2900 in its ability to hold back the rig.


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