Never been very happy with what seems to be lack of really good braking on the drum brakes on my Exiss. Have heard about the conversion kits to disc. Sounds a bit pricey but the "pucker factor" into Telluride last week was bit much, especially for the wife looking for the mystery brake pedal from the passenger seat. Anyways, has anyone ever done this conversion, any better braking power, worth the money? My Prodigy has been in for 8 years and I think it is working fine, can feel all of the boost level adjusment differences.

Thanks

 

best i can do
http://www.trailerpartsdepot.com/ite...atus=0&Tp=&Bc=

 

Keep in mind brakes are biased ~60% more to the front. You may also need to just adjust the rear brakes on your truck. I found I had to do that on my F150 every 6 months.

Before investing in the conversion to rear disc:

Call http://philsinc.com/

Inquire about the CHP rotors: drilled and slotted front rotors. I can't tell you how much of a difference they make. My '97 F150 had them and took about 15-20 feet off the stopping distance; absolutely made towing fun again (until I got the cummins). No more warped rotors, and MUCH improved pedal feel.

Basically the drilling and slotting allow the rotor to cool better and last longer. Less heat = more braking. By design, braking force is a function of pad area, not so much the rotor area...to a point.

I have had 3 friends install them over the last 6 years. Everyone loves them and has no issues and finds the braking to be much improved!

Tony

 

>> Inquire about the CHP rotors: drilled and slotted front rotors. <<

Drilling rotors is only done for bling. They have absolutly no effect on cooling or performance. But, they do create a stress riser. You're much more likely to develops cracks in a short period of time.

Slots act like a cheese slicer. They shave off a small amount of pad material. In a high performance application, this is a good thing. In a heavy duty or DD application, that's a bad thing.

Braking force is partly a function of pad/rotor contact area. If you drill holes in the rotor, you decrease the surface area of the rotor.

If you want better cooling, add some cooling ducts.

I believe the OP was talking about improving braking on his trailer by converting to disc brakes. Disc brakes have a couple of advantages: they cool better, resist water better, and are easier to service. If your brakes are occasionally overheating, I would fab some cooling ducts. A lot cheaper than discs.

To make sure your trailer brakes are working correctly, see if the can lock the tires at low speeds in the dirt, or in the rain. If so, they're probably working correctly. If not, then you need to start looking things over very carefully to find out why.

 

Thanks for the replies, I am asking about the brakes on the trailer, just did all 4 corners of the truck so I am good there. Just seems to me that disc brakes are much more efficient than the drums, hence my inquiry.

 

I went from drums to discs on my boat trailer. The difference is night and day. My boat trailer actually stops like it should now.

I went with the Kodiak brand discs. Great products and great customer service.

 

We have a few options you can do. One is convert the drum to disc. Make sure you if you are using a hydraulic actuator that you change out your master cylinder from a drum brake to a disc brake setup and add a backup soleniod. If converting to electric/hydraulic with disc brakes, I suggest you take a look at the ultimate kit.

 

Once you go with disc you will never go back, they are self adjusting, cool quicker and stop mucho better..

What axles do you have under your trailer? the mfr should have components as well.. I prefer the Carlisle brand elec / hyd actuator..

Actuator:



Dexter 12K HD axles with the disc option, I used all SS tubing and hoses as well..



You might want to upgrade to a P-3 when you convert as it is more user friendly with the elec / hyd brakes

 

River Ram - Looks like a nice set up!!, I have 2 - 7 K torsions. Me thinks that is the way i am going to go. Thanks for the comments

 

Thanks Mule Skinner..

I'm assuming you have Dexter axles?

Here is the link to their website:

http://dexteraxle.com/products___literature

And the link to the 5500-7000 axles

Disc brakes are shown toward the bottom, call or email Dexter they are good people to work with..

http://dexteraxle.com/i/u/1080235/f/...0-7000_lbs.pdf

 

They are dexters, I will prolly order parts next week thanks

 

I too was looking at the disc conversion on a trailer with Dexter axels. Too expensive for me. But I did like the concept. I found my brakes inadaquate when I got the trailer last winter. Before departing on a trip west I took it all apart and re-did the bearings and brakes. I found that the brakes on one axel seemed to not be working. I did feel some stopping when applied but not as much as I should have. That would explain it. Anyhow, I replaced everything with pre-assembled and self-adjusting brakes. The cost was very little over the non self-adj. brakes and if they work will make a towers life much easier. I haven't had them long enough to vouch for their effectivness. They did however work much better than those removed and I have confidence in them while on the road. So far So good.

So, that may be a much less costly route, that is, unless you are dead set against the drum brakes. Then, of course the disc route is the other option.

Good luck with your brakes.

 

There is no comparison in the braking ability of disks versus even good drum brakes on a trailer. However, make sure your drums are working correctly before investing in a bunch of money. Plus, you might need to reconsider your driving habits. Don't be coming down hills on your brakes - - adjust your gearing so you don't touch your brakes coming down.

I agree with the poster who said start with checking your adjustment, then the slide test at slow speed on dirt. Did all four wheels slide? How much current is your brake circuit pulling - - your Prodigy is not going to tell you that. You should draw 2 1/2 - 3 amps per puck (wheel) - - 10 to 12 amps total if you wiring is all in shape.

Bob

 

Slow in responding due to computer being down, anyways, thanks for all of the replies. the dirt slide test shows all is working so ????? Need to give this a little thought.