brakes needed on 1 axle or 2 for towing 10k lbs?
#1
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brakes needed on 1 axle or 2 for towing 10k lbs?
brakes needed on 1 axle or 2 for towing 10k lbs?
looking at a 20ft tandem axle trailer with no brakes and 15in wheels. need to figure cost of putting brakes on one axle or two.
or passing on this trailer completely and finding a trailer with brakes on both axles ready to go.
16in wheels of course would be better, but do I need 16in wheels for towing 10k lbs?
thanks in advance...
looking at a 20ft tandem axle trailer with no brakes and 15in wheels. need to figure cost of putting brakes on one axle or two.
or passing on this trailer completely and finding a trailer with brakes on both axles ready to go.
16in wheels of course would be better, but do I need 16in wheels for towing 10k lbs?
thanks in advance...
#2
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I think it depends on what state you're in. In CO, i think you do. I'd say it's always better to get both brakes than just one. It's not too terribly expensive to put them on.
I tow the jeep w/ 2 quads on a 18 ft with both brakes. It's nice to have help stopping. It all holds fine on 15inch D range tires. Next time, I'll go with E though.
So I guess, if the trailer (plus brakes) is a good price and you like it, go for it.
Good Luck
I tow the jeep w/ 2 quads on a 18 ft with both brakes. It's nice to have help stopping. It all holds fine on 15inch D range tires. Next time, I'll go with E though.
So I guess, if the trailer (plus brakes) is a good price and you like it, go for it.
Good Luck
#4
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Darkvader beat me to it.
Axle ratings are easy to identify. Rule of thumb: 3500lb axles generally have a 5 bolt pattern (although there are a few with 6), 5200lb axles have a 6 bolt pattern, and 7K and most 10K axles have 8 bolt patterns, (although some 10K axles have 10 bolt hubs).
So one can generally just glance at the wheels on a trailer and determine it's capacity. Once you know that, subtract the weight of the trailer, and you know how much load that trailer can safely carry. . . ., that is how the DOT does it!
Now, about the brakes. If you are hauling for hire, you MUST have brakes on all axles. Many states also require that of all trailers, commercial and personal (such as CO). So even if your state doesn't have that requirement, if you cross state lines I would strongly urge that you have all axles braked anyway.
Some states don't have a brake requirement at all. But if you have never tried an emergency stop with even a partially loaded trailer, you can easily understand why it is good common sense to have as much brake as possible. "Not enough" brakes can kill you or somebody else whether or not there are laws requiring brakes. The difference in axles with brakes and those without is normally no more than $35 or $40 anyway - - small price to pay for the increased benefits.
Hope this helps
G
Axle ratings are easy to identify. Rule of thumb: 3500lb axles generally have a 5 bolt pattern (although there are a few with 6), 5200lb axles have a 6 bolt pattern, and 7K and most 10K axles have 8 bolt patterns, (although some 10K axles have 10 bolt hubs).
So one can generally just glance at the wheels on a trailer and determine it's capacity. Once you know that, subtract the weight of the trailer, and you know how much load that trailer can safely carry. . . ., that is how the DOT does it!
Now, about the brakes. If you are hauling for hire, you MUST have brakes on all axles. Many states also require that of all trailers, commercial and personal (such as CO). So even if your state doesn't have that requirement, if you cross state lines I would strongly urge that you have all axles braked anyway.
Some states don't have a brake requirement at all. But if you have never tried an emergency stop with even a partially loaded trailer, you can easily understand why it is good common sense to have as much brake as possible. "Not enough" brakes can kill you or somebody else whether or not there are laws requiring brakes. The difference in axles with brakes and those without is normally no more than $35 or $40 anyway - - small price to pay for the increased benefits.
Hope this helps
G
#5
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There's just no good reason not to have brakes on every axle - it's safer, easier on the truck and much more pleasant to haul that way.
Don't forget to setup your controller to "lead" the truck while stopping.
Don't forget to setup your controller to "lead" the truck while stopping.
#7
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Set the controller so the trailer's brakes grab harder than the tow vehicle's, like throwing an anchor out to stop instead of "pushing" the truck, keeps the rig more stable when stopping, especially quickly, and saves wear & tear on the truck. Ideally, brake force should match the axle weight...
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#8
Brakes, brakes and more brakes!!! You can not have enough stopping power but you can have too little. 5 tons behind you and a down hill slope during an emergency stop can make you dirty your shorts. Also remember most other drivers don't let you maintain much of a safe stopping distance. Leave that space between you and the vehicle in front and some one will jump in.
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Set the controller so the trailer's brakes grab harder than the tow vehicle's, like throwing an anchor out to stop instead of "pushing" the truck, keeps the rig more stable when stopping, especially quickly, and saves wear & tear on the truck. Ideally, brake force should match the axle weight...
#10
If you are thinking about changing axles, here is a link to some affordable ones. I always buy the torsen with brakes when I build a trailer.
http://www2.northerntool.com/cat-1/166839+166843.htm
http://www2.northerntool.com/cat-1/166839+166843.htm
#11
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The main thing to consider, when looking to buy a trailer, be it new, or used, is to make absolute certain that it has SIXTEEN INCH WHEELS.
Good used fifteen-inch tires are a thing of the past, as no new vehicle has had them in several years.
Sixteens, on the other hand, are a dime a dozen, because many, many trucks are out there that run them.
Also, sixteen-inch tires can be had up to 14-ply rating, whereas a fifteen is hard to find in ply over six.
As far as brakes are concerned, the more, the better.
There is a picture of some prissy looking kid up in the middle of an old man's porch that thought he didn't need brakes.
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I was told years ago when I started driving big rigs by an old timer "it ain't what you can haul it's what you can stop". If I did more driving with either of my trailers I'd add an exhaust brake, too, and both my trailers (2 axle & 3 axle) have brakes on all axles, and I check my adjustment(controller) on dry pavement before I head out each time.
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brakes needed on 1 axle or 2 for towing 10k lbs?
looking at a 20ft tandem axle trailer with no brakes and 15in wheels. need to figure cost of putting brakes on one axle or two.
or passing on this trailer completely and finding a trailer with brakes on both axles ready to go.
16in wheels of course would be better, but do I need 16in wheels for towing 10k lbs?
thanks in advance...
looking at a 20ft tandem axle trailer with no brakes and 15in wheels. need to figure cost of putting brakes on one axle or two.
or passing on this trailer completely and finding a trailer with brakes on both axles ready to go.
16in wheels of course would be better, but do I need 16in wheels for towing 10k lbs?
thanks in advance...
http://www.roadmasterinc.com/laws.htm
#14
I agree with the advice given and add this: When decelerating with a trailer it wants to run forward and push the tow vehicle. It will try to push in a straightline of whatever direction it is traveling, instant by instant! Thinking of making a turn and the road a little slick or even bone dry and you see the problem as the trailer attempts to push the back end of tow vehicle in trailer's direction of travel: uh-oh...but having trailer brakes 'leading' tow vehicle brakes causes it to be pulled through the turn instead of pushing tow vehicle. Simply [?] physics at work.
Also, many/most trailer brake system are wired such that wiring goes down one side of trailer frame and then on each axle from one brake to the other. This can mean that a loose or broken wire or failed brake on one side loses ALL braking on that axle!! Ask me how I know? Found out when I rolled the whole rig a few years ago, badly damaged a very good truck [currently being rebuilt and restored with a Cummins!!!] and totaled a good trailer. Also with both axles braked a failure on only one side can sometimes be overcome and vehicle straightened by the other 3 brakes. Can't do that with only one functioning brake.
The day I wrecked, but for the Grace of God Almighty, I would have taken out all 5 cars coming in the opposite direction through a narrow canyon in a big hurry. Had to lay it down, no choice......
Believe me, you don't want to go there.
JimmieD [and thanking God every day!]
Also, many/most trailer brake system are wired such that wiring goes down one side of trailer frame and then on each axle from one brake to the other. This can mean that a loose or broken wire or failed brake on one side loses ALL braking on that axle!! Ask me how I know? Found out when I rolled the whole rig a few years ago, badly damaged a very good truck [currently being rebuilt and restored with a Cummins!!!] and totaled a good trailer. Also with both axles braked a failure on only one side can sometimes be overcome and vehicle straightened by the other 3 brakes. Can't do that with only one functioning brake.
The day I wrecked, but for the Grace of God Almighty, I would have taken out all 5 cars coming in the opposite direction through a narrow canyon in a big hurry. Had to lay it down, no choice......
Believe me, you don't want to go there.
JimmieD [and thanking God every day!]