I need to pick up a brake controller right away. How is the Tekonsha P3? Is it the hot setup and worth upgrading to it over the other Tekonsha models?

I'll be installing it in my '02 2500 w/ factory towing package.

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If you can possibly swing it, get a Maxbrake controller. They are expensive (about $350), but well worth it. I had a Jordan controller for years and was quite happy with it. I've had my Maxbrake for about a year and I cannot believe how smooth the braking action is. I tow a 12,000# fifth wheel with a '06 2500.
Southwest Wheel has next day shipping. Good luck on your choice-John

 

Nope, I'm not going to be able to swing a $350 controller. I thought the P3 was expensive. Lol

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If you do any amount of towing the MaxBrake is the way to go. Little more expensive now, but you'll make it back by not flat spotting your tires (no flat spots from skidding) and much easier on trailer suspension. There is no jerking, pulling, etc. A well made unit that works well. I've installed 5 units and everyone complained how expensive it was until they used it the first time and then there is no more mention of the cost.

“The bitterness of poor quality is remembered long after the sweetness of low price has faded from memory.”

 

I vote for the MaxBreak also, I installed it this winter and just smile now when I haul my fiver. I don`t get any noise for the pin on the fifth wheel and the breaks are great. Its worth every cent. My .02 Later Don T

 

listen to klx he is giving you very good advice. the maxbrake and the smartbrake are the only good safe controllers on the market

 

So basically, you're all telling me the only way I can safely tow an electric brake trailer is with a $350 controller? Geez, it's a wonder my dad, myself, and many others are even alive. Thanks for the help fellas.


I can not justify a $350 controller on a vehicle I've owned for 15 months and have put about 6000 miles on.

 

To me, there are three levels of controller. The cheapies- they are the $50 specials that have the pendulum inside. They work somewhat, but are crude and I would generally stay away from them. The next level is the electronic accelerometer based unit, like the Prodigy and the P3. They are the best of the "mainstream" controllers. Fairly sophisticated, pretty smooth and do a very good job. The top level is based on a pressure transducer that reads your tow vehicle's brake pressure and uses that to provide a proportional output to the trailer. Naturally they work the best, but are very expensive. My feeling is that as long as you stay away from the first group, you will be fairly happy with one from the second group. It will do everything you ask of it, perhaps not as well as the third group, but it will do the job for years, as mine has. Then if you decide to upgrade one day you can.

 

No need for a sarcastic comment. You asked for opinions on brake controllers and got them.

Both units you specifically asked for are very good controllers and will work adequately. I'd go with whichever one is less expensive at the time of purchase. But to say you can't 'justify' $350 to stop a trailer reliably each and every time you need it to stop is rather callous. I have had the Prodigy fail to be adequate in several circumstances. I've had the cheaper units just plain not work. While I'm sure the Max Brake and Smart Brake are capable of malfunctioning and/or not working, I think the possibility of this circumstance is greatly reduced. Add to that the fact that they make the stopping of a trailer feel like it has its' own integrated hydraulic or air system and the safety factor goes up ten-fold. I know from first hand experience that even a 7 or 10 thousand pound trailer can be hard to stop or control in a panic stop. I like to minimize that effect as much as possible in order to be responsible and safe. When I need my trailer to stop NOW, I like the peace of mind I get from knowing that it will! I used the cheap controllers for years, then the Prodigy for another good length of time before I got a Max Brake. I also used to tow heavy loads with a 1967 Chevy 3/4 ton pick up. Just because I used to have this equipment and didn't die because, (or in spite!), of it doesn't mean I'm still willing to use it. There are safer things out there now.

 

I've had Drawtite controllers for 15 years. From the old school dial up to the newer digital model, I've always had great luck with them. You can get one for around $150.00

 

I'm seriously considering the Maxbrake as the built in controller is not all that great. I have read the Maxbrake web, but have a question. On the newer trucks with built in controllers, do you have to disable the built in controller to use the Maxbrake? If so, how do you do that, with a programmer or will the dealer need to disable it?

Just my 2 cents, $350 is very cheap insurance to pay considering the cost of the truck and the trailer it is pulling.

 

My dad had the integrated controller (on his 2010) and had it removed due to the inconsistent and non-confidence inspiring performance (he has a MaxBrake on his 05 1 ton). The dealership was not impressed that he wanted it removed and said there would be no warranty on the entire truck if he installed his own brake controller. Dad called BS on that, we ordered the Maxbrake and installed it and now all is well in the kingdom. They had to disable it in the software.

 

for what it's worth, I tow about 7k pounds with a Tekonsha Voyager, basic proportional unit.. Works fine for me..

Not fancy in any way, no digital readouts... just works..

oh and it's about $85...

If I was towing heavy I may consider something more expensive..

 

Very Well Put Chaikwa.
I made the switch and find myself wondering if the guy behind me can stop as well as I can, and my rig is NOT a lightweight by any means.

 

i second nascarcamper. chaikwa gave a very clear explanation of what we have discovered going to the smartbrake or maxbrake