Black and Gray Water Holding Tank Maintenance
09-14-2007, 09:53 AM
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Black and Gray Water Holding Tank Maintenance
The Geo Method
By Charles Bruni
cbruni@mindspring.com
Black and Gray Water Holding Tank Maintenance
Everyone who owns an RV should be concerned with maintaining its wastewater tanks. Problems with wastewater tanks can and should be avoided. Wastewater tank repair is expensive. Due to health concerns, many service facilities will not work on wastewater tanks and lines until the tanks have been completely emptied and sanitized. This may be quite difficult when the tank(s) is in need of repair. So, common sense dictates that the tanks should be kept relatively clean at all times. Additionally, improper use of the wastewater tanks can lead to a build up of solid wastes, which in itself may cause the system to fail.
I've discovered very simple, effective, and inexpensive methods of maintaining my wastewater tanks in a relatively clean condition at all times. I developed these methods myself through my understanding of chemistry, physics, and biology with a smidgen of common sense thrown in for good measure. I also read my RV owner's manual. Although we are not full time RVers we use our fifth wheel camper at least one weekend a month. We never use public bathing and toilet facilities. In other words, our wastewater tanks are fairly heavily used. Since I've met a number of RVers who don't seem to know how to maintain their wastewater tanks I thought many RVers would find my tips useful. If you have not been maintaining your tanks I believe you will be pleasantly surprised the first time you employ these tips. I do these things and they work.
RVs are equipped with waste water HOLDING tanks; NOT septic tanks. Those holding tanks are nothing more than chamber pots. Chamber pots should be cleaned and sanitized after their contents are disposed of. The Geo Method is based on this fact.
1. DUMP A FULL TANK
When you are camping and your RV is connected to a sewer/septic intake, leave the drain valves closed until the tank is full and ready to dump. Dumping a full tank provides a sufficient quantity of water to flush solids from the tank. Leaving the drain valves open allows the water to drain off without flushing out solid waste. That solid waste will collect in the tank(s) and cause problems over time. If your tanks are not full when you are ready to dump them, fill them with fresh water first, and then dump them.
2. DUMP TANKS IN ORDER FROM DIRTIEST TO CLEANEST
In other words, dump the black (commode) water tank first, then dump the galley tank, then dump the bathroom tank. This way you will be flushing out the dirtiest water with progressively cleaner water.
3. USE WATER SOFTENER, DETERGENT, and CHLORINE BLEACH
**Calgon Water Softener link**
**How does chlorine bleach work? Great link!**
**How Do Detergents Clean? Another link!**
This stuff is amazing and it works. Buy a couple of boxes of powdered water softener at the grocery store. You'll find it located with or near the laundry detergent products. I prefer Calgon Water Softener because it dissolves quickly in water. Cheaper water softeners work just as well but dissolve more slowly. Dissolve two (2) cups of the water softener in a gallon of hot water. Then, pour the solution down the drain into the empty tank. Use two cups of softener for each wastewater tank in your RV. The tank's drain valve should be closed otherwise the softened water will just drain out. Then use the tank(s) normally until it is full and drain it normally. Add a cup of laundry detergent to the black (commode) water tank at the same time you add water softener. This will help clean the tank. The gray water tanks should already contain soap through normal use.
The water softener makes the solid waste let go from the sides of the tanks. If you've ever taken a shower in softened water you know that after rinsing the soap from your body your skin will feel slick. That's because all the soap rinses away with soft water. Softened water also prevents soap scum from sticking in the tub. Get the connection? With softened water gunk washes away instead of sticking. The same thing applies to your RV's wastewater tanks.
I use a clear plastic elbow connector to attach my sewer drain line to the wastewater outlet on my RV. It allows me to see how well things are progressing during a wastewater dump. Before I began using water softener regularly the black water tank's water was brown, the galley tank's water was brownish, and the bathroom tank's water was white. The first time I added water softener to the tanks the water coming from the black water tank was actually black (not brown) and the kitchen tank's water was also black (not brownish). The bathroom tank's water remained white. That told me that the water softener had actually done what I had intended for it to do and made solid waste, which had been stuck to the interior of the tanks, let go and drain away. I added water softener (and laundry detergent to the black tank) to all the wastewater tanks for the next few dumps to be certain all the solid waste possible had been cleaned away. The wastewater only appeared black on the initial treatment. I now add water softener and detergent to each tank once after every few dumps to maintain the system.
Too little water softener may not be of sufficient concentration to work effectively. Too much water softener will NOT hurt the tanks. So, if the amount you used didn't quite do the job, then use more.
By Charles Bruni
cbruni@mindspring.com
Black and Gray Water Holding Tank Maintenance
Everyone who owns an RV should be concerned with maintaining its wastewater tanks. Problems with wastewater tanks can and should be avoided. Wastewater tank repair is expensive. Due to health concerns, many service facilities will not work on wastewater tanks and lines until the tanks have been completely emptied and sanitized. This may be quite difficult when the tank(s) is in need of repair. So, common sense dictates that the tanks should be kept relatively clean at all times. Additionally, improper use of the wastewater tanks can lead to a build up of solid wastes, which in itself may cause the system to fail.
I've discovered very simple, effective, and inexpensive methods of maintaining my wastewater tanks in a relatively clean condition at all times. I developed these methods myself through my understanding of chemistry, physics, and biology with a smidgen of common sense thrown in for good measure. I also read my RV owner's manual. Although we are not full time RVers we use our fifth wheel camper at least one weekend a month. We never use public bathing and toilet facilities. In other words, our wastewater tanks are fairly heavily used. Since I've met a number of RVers who don't seem to know how to maintain their wastewater tanks I thought many RVers would find my tips useful. If you have not been maintaining your tanks I believe you will be pleasantly surprised the first time you employ these tips. I do these things and they work.
RVs are equipped with waste water HOLDING tanks; NOT septic tanks. Those holding tanks are nothing more than chamber pots. Chamber pots should be cleaned and sanitized after their contents are disposed of. The Geo Method is based on this fact.
1. DUMP A FULL TANK
When you are camping and your RV is connected to a sewer/septic intake, leave the drain valves closed until the tank is full and ready to dump. Dumping a full tank provides a sufficient quantity of water to flush solids from the tank. Leaving the drain valves open allows the water to drain off without flushing out solid waste. That solid waste will collect in the tank(s) and cause problems over time. If your tanks are not full when you are ready to dump them, fill them with fresh water first, and then dump them.
2. DUMP TANKS IN ORDER FROM DIRTIEST TO CLEANEST
In other words, dump the black (commode) water tank first, then dump the galley tank, then dump the bathroom tank. This way you will be flushing out the dirtiest water with progressively cleaner water.
3. USE WATER SOFTENER, DETERGENT, and CHLORINE BLEACH
**Calgon Water Softener link**
**How does chlorine bleach work? Great link!**
**How Do Detergents Clean? Another link!**
This stuff is amazing and it works. Buy a couple of boxes of powdered water softener at the grocery store. You'll find it located with or near the laundry detergent products. I prefer Calgon Water Softener because it dissolves quickly in water. Cheaper water softeners work just as well but dissolve more slowly. Dissolve two (2) cups of the water softener in a gallon of hot water. Then, pour the solution down the drain into the empty tank. Use two cups of softener for each wastewater tank in your RV. The tank's drain valve should be closed otherwise the softened water will just drain out. Then use the tank(s) normally until it is full and drain it normally. Add a cup of laundry detergent to the black (commode) water tank at the same time you add water softener. This will help clean the tank. The gray water tanks should already contain soap through normal use.
The water softener makes the solid waste let go from the sides of the tanks. If you've ever taken a shower in softened water you know that after rinsing the soap from your body your skin will feel slick. That's because all the soap rinses away with soft water. Softened water also prevents soap scum from sticking in the tub. Get the connection? With softened water gunk washes away instead of sticking. The same thing applies to your RV's wastewater tanks.
I use a clear plastic elbow connector to attach my sewer drain line to the wastewater outlet on my RV. It allows me to see how well things are progressing during a wastewater dump. Before I began using water softener regularly the black water tank's water was brown, the galley tank's water was brownish, and the bathroom tank's water was white. The first time I added water softener to the tanks the water coming from the black water tank was actually black (not brown) and the kitchen tank's water was also black (not brownish). The bathroom tank's water remained white. That told me that the water softener had actually done what I had intended for it to do and made solid waste, which had been stuck to the interior of the tanks, let go and drain away. I added water softener (and laundry detergent to the black tank) to all the wastewater tanks for the next few dumps to be certain all the solid waste possible had been cleaned away. The wastewater only appeared black on the initial treatment. I now add water softener and detergent to each tank once after every few dumps to maintain the system.
Too little water softener may not be of sufficient concentration to work effectively. Too much water softener will NOT hurt the tanks. So, if the amount you used didn't quite do the job, then use more.
09-14-2007, 10:35 AM
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Cleaning the tanks
I allways refill my black tank about 1/3 full of clean water & drive home & dump it in the pasture. It keeps the black water tank very clean.
09-14-2007, 10:55 AM
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I have been using a variation of the GEO method for 2-1/2 years now. I never use chemicals and odors are never an issue. The key is to use lots of water when dumping.
09-14-2007, 11:43 AM
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Another tip I have followed for many years. It uses less chemicals but is not useful for the full timer.
On the day you are heading for home, dump tanks in the progression as discussed, rinse completely (assumming you have a rinse), then put in 5 gallons of fresh water in each tank. Mix up a solution of RidX in a waste basket and put 1/2 in each tank making sure some goes down each drain (shower, vanity, kitchen). RidX is available in most hardware stores.
Leave this mixture in the tanks until the next time you are ready to head out. RidX uses enzymes to break down residue in tanks and make it a liquid. Driving home sloshes that mixture all up the sides of your tanks. It takes about two weeks for the enzymes to "do their thing". My tanks stay very healthy and even the indicators usually show correctly.
Bob
On the day you are heading for home, dump tanks in the progression as discussed, rinse completely (assumming you have a rinse), then put in 5 gallons of fresh water in each tank. Mix up a solution of RidX in a waste basket and put 1/2 in each tank making sure some goes down each drain (shower, vanity, kitchen). RidX is available in most hardware stores.
Leave this mixture in the tanks until the next time you are ready to head out. RidX uses enzymes to break down residue in tanks and make it a liquid. Driving home sloshes that mixture all up the sides of your tanks. It takes about two weeks for the enzymes to "do their thing". My tanks stay very healthy and even the indicators usually show correctly.
Bob
09-14-2007, 03:25 PM
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I tried the GEO method one summer. After buying all the products it was cheaper to just use Thetford, the blue powder stuff.
What a hassle to store all those chemicals and then take the time to mix them when needed. Careful with that bleach when transporting it from sink to sink. Even just a drop on the carpet will bleach it out, no pun intended.
The waste tanks use to have odors and the sensors never worked properly no matter what I used, TST, enzyemes, even the GEO method.
Since I have been using thetford the tanks no longer stink.
What a hassle to store all those chemicals and then take the time to mix them when needed. Careful with that bleach when transporting it from sink to sink. Even just a drop on the carpet will bleach it out, no pun intended.
The waste tanks use to have odors and the sensors never worked properly no matter what I used, TST, enzyemes, even the GEO method.
Since I have been using thetford the tanks no longer stink.
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09-18-2007, 12:35 PM
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Regardless of what chemicles used, or methods, dumping a full tank is the single most important technique. Even though it is a holding tank and not a true septic, septic action does occur, that is, solids are digested by the inherant bacteria, and a slurry dumps when emptied.
I usually refill at least 10 or 15 gallons in the black tank (while the grey is draining) then shut off the grey, and re-drain the black. Then I shine a light into the hopper, and check to see that I have a clean tank. Always clean!
fill all tanks with 5 gallonsof fresh water, add chems if you use them, and move on.
We mostly use the rig during September, at hunting camp. We drain tanks at the first town, fill with 5 gallons, and chems, and redrain at home, after filling with fresh water to the top.
Again add 5 gallons of fresh water, so the seals stay moist, and don't dry out and leak later. That lets it sit with clean fresh tanks, until we leave for the winter, When moving every day, I drain every day, so I don't have to haul the weight, but I always flush the tanks first with a hose (for a fast fill) before draining, so I am draining at least 25 gallons. Since we are hooking up each night, I rarely fill the fresh water tank during the winter trips.
I usually refill at least 10 or 15 gallons in the black tank (while the grey is draining) then shut off the grey, and re-drain the black. Then I shine a light into the hopper, and check to see that I have a clean tank. Always clean!
fill all tanks with 5 gallonsof fresh water, add chems if you use them, and move on.
We mostly use the rig during September, at hunting camp. We drain tanks at the first town, fill with 5 gallons, and chems, and redrain at home, after filling with fresh water to the top.
Again add 5 gallons of fresh water, so the seals stay moist, and don't dry out and leak later. That lets it sit with clean fresh tanks, until we leave for the winter, When moving every day, I drain every day, so I don't have to haul the weight, but I always flush the tanks first with a hose (for a fast fill) before draining, so I am draining at least 25 gallons. Since we are hooking up each night, I rarely fill the fresh water tank during the winter trips.
09-20-2007, 12:01 PM
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To clean the black water tank without using chemicals, just dump the tank, add about 5 to 10 gal of water, dump a bag of ice cubes down the toilet, drive around the block and do a final dump. Does a nice job at cleaning the monitor pickups also, if your getting wrong readings.
09-20-2007, 01:32 PM
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My Holiday Rambler has i common drain connection from all 3 tanks. I added a valve so I can 1. Dump the black water (always full) shut the dump valve, open the grey water tanks and the grey soapy water feeds back into the black tank filling it about 1/2 way. This does a great job cleaning the black tank, then open the dump valve and out it comes. Frank
09-20-2007, 02:07 PM
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My Holiday Rambler has i common drain connection from all 3 tanks. I added a valve so I can 1. Dump the black water (always full) shut the dump valve, open the grey water tanks and the grey soapy water feeds back into the black tank filling it about 1/2 way. This does a great job cleaning the black tank, then open the dump valve and out it comes. Frank
The problem with that is it allows black water into you grey water tank. I don't do mine that way 'cause I don't want black water anywhere but the black water tank.
09-21-2007, 08:01 AM
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If you read his post he dumps the black tank first. Then shuts off the main drain. Then opens the grey tank so it flows into the black. Then opens the main drain to dump everything. Sort of reverse cleans black tank. Nifty Idea if you don't have a black tank flush kit.
09-21-2007, 08:27 AM
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I use a flush king to clean out the black and grey tanks and it works great. Here's a link if anyone's interested. http://www.flushking.com
09-21-2007, 10:25 AM
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I read the post and understand what he's doing. Even though he dumped the black first, he's still allowing anything left in the tank to backwash into the grey tank. But if he's good with that...cool. I wouldn't do it though.
09-21-2007, 02:44 PM
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Im not letting any black water back into the gray tanks. I still have all the original valves in place to isolate each tank. When I let the gray into the empty black tank the flow of water is grey into black tank by just the force of the volume of grey water. Then shut the gray tanks, drain the black tank again, then finish off the gray tanks. So easy a Caveman could do it.
