Adjusting electric brakes
Thread Starter
DTR's Night Watchman & Poet Laureate
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 2,156
Likes: 1
From: Lyndon KS
Adjusting electric brakes
OK, I had to install a new axle on the Horse trailer with LQ, an AL-KO 6000 lb torsion axle.. it came complete with hub/brake assymblies.
Got it installed and did the recommended 200 mile break-in, and adjusted the brakes per the manual that came with the axle..
problem is they are dragging enough to get the hubs hot.. wont burn ya, but after a 70 mile drive, they were too hot to leave your hand on them comfortably!
So whats the trick to properly adjusting them? the manual said to tighten the brake until heavy drag, then back them off until the tire spun"freely" 3/4 to One full rotation... doesnt say how hard ya should have to push it though
Here's the owners manual copied and pasted:
1)Lift trailer as outlined on page
Do notremove the wheels or hub/drum assembly.
2)Locate the adjusting slot at the
remove the protective cover.
3)While spinning the wheel, use
a standard brake adjusting tool or the
blade of a screw driver to rotate the
star wheel until there is a heavy brake
drag.
4)Loosen until the wheel turns
freely about 3/4 to one full turn.
5)Replace the protective plug to
keep dirt and moisture out.
6)Repeat procedure for other
wheels. Never adjust just one brake.
It is recommended that all brakes on
the trailer, or at least both brakes of
7)Replace all parts and lower
trailer as outlined on page 24
"Completing Service".
any thoughts/suggestions?
Got it installed and did the recommended 200 mile break-in, and adjusted the brakes per the manual that came with the axle..
problem is they are dragging enough to get the hubs hot.. wont burn ya, but after a 70 mile drive, they were too hot to leave your hand on them comfortably!
So whats the trick to properly adjusting them? the manual said to tighten the brake until heavy drag, then back them off until the tire spun"freely" 3/4 to One full rotation... doesnt say how hard ya should have to push it though

Here's the owners manual copied and pasted:
1)Lift trailer as outlined on page
Do notremove the wheels or hub/drum assembly.
2)Locate the adjusting slot at the
remove the protective cover.
3)While spinning the wheel, use
a standard brake adjusting tool or the
blade of a screw driver to rotate the
star wheel until there is a heavy brake
drag.
4)Loosen until the wheel turns
freely about 3/4 to one full turn.
5)Replace the protective plug to
keep dirt and moisture out.
6)Repeat procedure for other
wheels. Never adjust just one brake.
It is recommended that all brakes on
the trailer, or at least both brakes of
7)Replace all parts and lower
trailer as outlined on page 24
"Completing Service".
any thoughts/suggestions?
Proprietor of Fiver's Inn and Hospitality Center
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 2,506
Likes: 22
From: Sarasota, Florida
Suggestion - - are you sure the controller is not holding the brakes on when the ignition is turned on? After you jack up a wheel, spin the wheel - - does it spin easy? Then, go turn on the key - - does it still spin?
Bob
Bob
Administrator / Free Time Specialist
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 7,707
Likes: 16
From: Birmingham, Alabama
Chris, if you've got a pendulum type controller make sure you're adjusted correctly there first. The next thing is to make sure you've wired in the new axle correctly and not accidentally crossed the wires. I'd also loosen the brake adjusters and make sure the problem isn't in the bearing. Just a thought, if you've got to "push" the wheel much at all, they're most likely too tight.
I generally turn them out until you can't turn the wheel forward by hand, or it is very difficult. This gets the shoes centered in the drum.
Then back the wheel off until there doens't appear to be any drag, and a good 5 or 6 bites with the adjuster more. There shouldn't be any notable reduction in drag.
They have to be underadjusted quite a bit for it to degrade performance, so if in doubt back it off a bit more.
Ditto on the post suggesting to also check wheel bearing tightness. Make sure the axle nut is one flat backed off from no play.
Then back the wheel off until there doens't appear to be any drag, and a good 5 or 6 bites with the adjuster more. There shouldn't be any notable reduction in drag.
They have to be underadjusted quite a bit for it to degrade performance, so if in doubt back it off a bit more.
Ditto on the post suggesting to also check wheel bearing tightness. Make sure the axle nut is one flat backed off from no play.
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Thread Starter
DTR's Night Watchman & Poet Laureate
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 2,156
Likes: 1
From: Lyndon KS
OK, theres still a lot of noticeable drag, so my guess is I need to back them out more, its easy to hear the shoes scraping on the drum.
Coming from the factory prelubed and such, I wouldnt think its the bearings.
Thanks!
Coming from the factory prelubed and such, I wouldnt think its the bearings.
Thanks!
Don't count on the factory to have assembled them correctly.
If you can't get the drag to go away by backing off the adjuster, pull the drum. You may have a spring unhooked or something similar.
You will still hear some dragging when properly adjusted, from the magnet skiffing along the armature.
If you can't get the drag to go away by backing off the adjuster, pull the drum. You may have a spring unhooked or something similar.
You will still hear some dragging when properly adjusted, from the magnet skiffing along the armature.
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