okay noticed something interesting today while tuning the ol mule. I was screwing around with the new plate and decided to look at gov arm when running. I expected to see the arm hit the plate as soon as the truck started, but this didn't happen at all, the lever doesn't even move when you give it throttle slowly.....it stays tucked away. The only time it moved is if I stabbed the throttle, or had it in gear and put a little load on it. Anyway this is not the topic....

For ever, I adjusted plates to ensure gov arm contact alignment with the engine off and solenoid energized, throttle open. I never though of the idle rpm changing lever height until today. With the engine at idle rpm "P" (950) the lever is a whopping 3/16 higher up the plate when it swings out. This means all this time I have been completely bypassing the hook at the bottom of the plate and going right into full fuel off idle. I moved the plate back so the lever was in the right place WHILE THE ENGINE WAS RUNNING. I took it out and viola, I could tell the difference. Now I need to adjust the lever height to be able to put the plate back where I want it. Just though I would let you all know this little tidbit. If you're setting gov arm/plate alignment with the engine off, You might be completely missing the lower portion of the plate. Take off the AFC sometime and try it, don't worry oil won't start spraying out 'till higher rpm. Lean over and partially stab the throttle....just enough to make the lever travel and look at what I mean. I would be curious what you find.

Chris

 

Thanks, I am gonna try that here, if it warms up at all!

 

OK, let me get my fireproof suit on, but what you are saying is leave the air horn on, take off the afc cover and fire it up? Do you take the cover off and then reinstall the solenoid without the cover?

I am really interested in this, sounds like the ultimate way to get it adjusted just right. Thanks, Kevin

 

You can shut the engine off manually so no I would not worrie about putting it back on.
DM01

 

I just put the two solenoid screws back in loose, just to keep the bracket from pulling. And yes leave everything intact (i can take off my AFC w/o removing anything at all). Start the truck as normal.....no oil came blasting out of the cavity at idle, and only a slight amount escapes at rpm.....just put a rag behind the solenoid to catch it. I didn't worry about the open boost line, as no boost was going to built anyway to worry about. Now lean over the driver fender with a flashlight and look into the cavity. Notice there is no gov arm there at idle. Now give a quick jab to the throttle. Don't let it rev up, just pop it. Look at where that arm strikes the plate compared to how you set it with the engine off!!

Chris

 

Does anyone have pictures of the internal workings of the P-pump. I just had mine apart for the first time the other day and couldn't even see the lever arm. Almost confused myself when I put it back together, and put it in backwards.
Heath

 

Try clicking this http://www.piersdiesel.com/TechLeverAdj.htm

 

Cool, Thanks infidel, just what I was looking for!!
Heath