Did a few pump tweeks yesterday and went for a spin, mashed the skinny pedal hit 2nd gear the truck died like a head shot squirrel, no gauges, no ignition nothing except headlights. I jumped the FSS to battery jumped the starter then limped her home, all fusible links checked out so I dropped the fuse box and here's what I find (2nd pic) someone had cut the black w/pink wire and spliced it to the black w/white wire thereby causing it to be the constant hot. the first pic shows the plugin for the ignition switch' the red wire should be constant hot as well as the 4th wire in that is slightly burnt, but the way they had it wired the blackw/white was constant and the red was keyed hot. I would like to just run two new wires for the constant hot from the battery, should I fuse them and if so what amp do you think I should use?

 

I forgot this is for the 1992

 

Well I brought 12 volt from the battery to the two wires in the top photo put them on a 15 amp fuse just to make sure I didn't have another short somewhere, it fires right up all gauges, radio, heater motor and windows work but now no charging, is there an exciter wire from the ignition switch. I also reconnected the wire that had been cut off in the second pic to the empty lug

 

What kind of pump tweaks did you do?

 

I had the full fuel screw at 2 turns in had the star wheel all the way to the top smoke screw flush with the inside of the cap was still smoking too much so I turned the full fuel screw back in half a turn and was taking it out for a spin when this happened. I found one fusible link blown (it's the one that feeds the charging system as well as the cruise control, jumpered that with a 25 amp fuse everything started working again but it keeps blowing the fuse so I put a 25 amp from the battery to the red feed wire on the back of the ignition, it's holding but getting warm so I have more digging to do. Unfortunately it's my daily driver so will be really digging this weekend

 

No telling what the other guy did to the wiring. Check your auto shut down relay, make sure it's good. Next step would be to take the dark blue with yellow stripe wire on the auto shut down relay and ground the relay side. That will bypass the PCM.

 

so far every thing is working, I ran a tempoary 10 gauge wire from the battery to the red wire and the pink w/black stripe wire on the back of the ignition switch, these have to be constant hot, as near as I can tell the pink w/black stripe powers the starter,heater controls and I'm not sure what else but it only gets hot if I run the fan on high, no other setting seems to heat it up, so I'm stumped, the fan doesn't seem to be dragging so not sure why it's heating the wire up so bad I don't have a ohm meter.

 

Put the fan on relays to take the load off the crappy factory wiring

 

Mark,I agree as well as the headlights, I just procrastinated to long and it bit me in the, well you know. The funny thing is I was just commenting to the wife two days before it happened that I was so lucky that the wiring was so nice and had never been butchered up by the PO like some guys trucks. Well you know the rest now its just a matter of gathering relays and parts to replace the fusible links as well.
Vern

 

Yeah that happens to me a lot.

I used these when I did my headlights.

https://theelectricaldepot.com/relay...1dbb36d1ab19bc

https://theelectricaldepot.com/relay...1dbb36d1ab19bc

https://theelectricaldepot.com/relay...1dbb36d1ab19bc

 

"...like a head shot squirrel"


Love the metaphor!! Cracked me up man. Still chuckling.