They are showing for me. Try cleaning the cache on your computer or smart phone. As long as flickr doesn't touch them, they are pretty safe because I cannot remember my login data and am afraid to try to recover the account for fear of losing them ...Mark

 

They work for me.

 

Hi guys.
I'm gearing up to do this work.
I've bought the Yukon kit from 4wfactory.com, and 7/8th hex
I think I'm pretty well sorted except for one question.
The spindle shaft seal as seen here



I don't think that came in the kit.
OK I need to order that.
Can you tell me which part that is?
https://www.4wdfactory.com/store/cat...-Mud-slingers/

Thanks.

 

It looks like the other small one is missing this is the kits I got for my spindles. https://www.4wdfactory.com/store/pro...-Seal-kit.html

 

I guess it makes sense that since I have the spindles off I should replace the needle bearing in there. We're at 360k.
I did the brake rotors, and wheel bearings April 2014.

Drats. Should have ordered that when I got my king pin kits.
Oh well.

OK anything else I should get before ordering again?

 

I am replacing the U joints too. A spindle bearing is the main reason I am in there so it's king pins spindle bearings and U-joints and a stub axle.

 

At the risk of inappropriately reviving this old thread, here goes:

I am FINALLY getting around to this job, after putting up with "death wobble" for years. But I can't haul any kind of trailer now without the death wobble on braking, and in fact, I'm getting it on high speed braking without a trailer now, too, and it just has to get done. So today, I tore into it.

I'm still in the disassembly phase, which seems absent from this fantastic write up. How on God's green earth do you free up the lower king pin on a rig that has not been touched for almost 300k? I did manage to get the driver's side upper cover/steering arm off, but only because I had the leverage of the steering arm to tap on and rock back and forth. I have no idea how I will do the other side without that advantage, nor can I figure out how to budge the lower kingpin at all.

I'm thinking heat will be my next move, but I figured I would ask here. I can't be the only one who has a 300k mile truck with shot king pins...

Also need tie rod ends, but those are going to be a snap after this burly mess.

thanks in advance!

 

No thread is too old if it's still relevant.
I used a 3/4" drive breaker bar, and a 6' piece of schedule 40 steel pipe.
I got my wife to push while I pulled. I wish I had video of that.
600 ft lbs of torque baby!

 

I got the bolts out with the impact wrench. The lower kingin/cap itself seems frozen in place, though. I haven't even gotten to the part of unscrewing that uppper cone, waiting on the special socket to get here.

 

IIRC, the nut / lower KP just loosened up on mine @ just under 200k miles.

The upper cone? Well that took a huge pipe on the end of a 4' breaker bar and 3/4" drive allen key I bought off of Amazon.

 

I soaked mine with PB blaster then used a hammer and a brass rod about 4" long to finally the pin to rotate. New ones are available if you screw one up.

 

I soaked mine with penetrating oil several times, heated it several times, and had a pipe wrench on a 30" piece of pipe, and got nothing Went to NAPA and bought a 6' long piece of square tubing and used that as a pipe wrench extension, and eventually I was able to get a little bit of rotation out of that lower KP. I'll keep at with that and the oil and heat, and hopefully I'll finish this job before the truck rusts away completely... ;-)

 

I thought I was going to screw mine up getting them off. but the finally gave up the fight.

 

Yeah, once I got it moving, I was finally able to get it out. Hopefully the other side is the same way. Thanks!

 

When mine broke loose, I was afraid that I was going to smash my knuckles on my Fairlane. The Dodge has lived all of its like in no rust land, so once the pins broke loose, they just spun out by hand. They spun right in also, so I don't really know how you guys deal with rust. ...Mark