What would it take to run low 13's in 1/4?
#6
A 2wd 12 valve can easily make it into the 13's. A new plate (#100), a built automatic tranny, new turbo(s), and a set of 370 injectors and your there. With a 24 valve you'd need an edge comp, a set of mach 4's or 5's, a b-1 or twins, and a built auto.
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#8
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Originally posted by BigBlue
A 2wd 12 valve can easily make it into the 13's. A new plate (#100), a built automatic tranny, new turbo(s), and a set of 370 injectors and your there. With a 24 valve you'd need an edge comp, a set of mach 4's or 5's, a b-1 or twins, and a built auto.
A 2wd 12 valve can easily make it into the 13's. A new plate (#100), a built automatic tranny, new turbo(s), and a set of 370 injectors and your there. With a 24 valve you'd need an edge comp, a set of mach 4's or 5's, a b-1 or twins, and a built auto.
#9
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A 24 valve with all that will run deep in the 12s possibly 11s. My truck is in the high 12s with Mach 3s, drag comp, Sledpuller 66, and a DTT tranny. I ran a 13.18 last Saturday with the drag comp on 5X3 experimenting and that was into a 20 mph headwind. And I weigh in at 7116 pounds in race trim. Race trim What a term for a 7000 + pound truck.
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12 vavle is cheaper to bomb but a 24 valve is more streetable and can be adjusted on the fly to turn down the power, plus the 24's box will control timing the 12 valve has to be set for one setting and left there
#13
Here is some rough information based on calcualtions.
To take a 6700lb truck (roughly the weight of a 4x4, regular cab) and run 13.50 in the 1/4 you need roughly 540HP to get there.
This info is based on mathmatical calculations. From what I have seen of 4x4 regular cabs you can run a 13.50 with a slightly less HP than 540.
To take a 6700lb truck (roughly the weight of a 4x4, regular cab) and run 13.50 in the 1/4 you need roughly 540HP to get there.
This info is based on mathmatical calculations. From what I have seen of 4x4 regular cabs you can run a 13.50 with a slightly less HP than 540.