I know this subject has been beat to death but doing a search on these forums is not getting me the info i would like. On my 97 i have the afc full forward and the plate full forward. To my knowledge these are the only 2 ways to "turn up" the pump. But this kid that went to be a diesel tech keeps telling me there is another way to turn up this pump. I have searched the internet high and low and i cannot find a way to turn up the pump any more without after market mods. So my question basically is how many ways can you turn up a p7100 without going aftermarket.

 

It woulld help if you went to the user control pannel and filled in the details of truck signature to help answering ? there's a thing called the star wheel that adds more fuel , I don't have a lot of info for ya but it should come up in search, then theres timing also , it depends on what you mean by after market , there are a lot of parts that can be added that are OEM , but for performance the after market has more opptions that have been proven if that is your consern.

 

By aftermarket i mean plate, delivery valves, gsk, ect. I turned up the star wheel if by star wheel you men the gear in the afc housing and i slid the plate forward. And i dont want to touch timing because the truck is not ready for it yet. I want to know how else you can modify the pump by just poping the hood and using your good mechanical skills and not spending a dime. He told me there was a screw on the back underside of the pump you turn to get more fuel but i cannot find it. I will fill out mu sig once i figure out how.

 

Here's a good place to start:

http://www.dodgedieseldatabase.com/index.html

What kind of gauges are you running??

Here is another little piece of info:

http://www.thedieselgarage.com/forum...ead.php?t=1878

You really need to know what your doing before you start mesing around with things. Be carefull, Piers has a few tips on their website as well.

 

Quit being cheap! Go buy you a plate and some governor springs.

 

I agreee with the last post.....you take advantage of years of knowledge for upgrades that will not hurt your truck.....unless your right foot gets crazy! BUT if you want to cheaply mod your truck......the only way i that i can see is pull the stock plate and fill with a welder and grind in a more agresive profile on the plate. This is by far the cheapest and safest way to get more power.....i would not screw with the GS's.....go buy them from Peirs. I have heard a cheap way of modding them.....but man! That is really playing with fire! Thoes things are humming in that pump and IF they let go...............you dont want to go there......other mods are done by the delivery valves.....and other internal mods that are better done by a pump shop.

As far as i know....you frined might be thinking about the VE style pump with external screws to adjust fueling. I dont know of any external screws on the P7100 that turn up the fueling.

Bump your timing a bit...you dont have to get crazy (I would talk to some 12 valver's that can tell you the limits good taste).....Look at the 24V's. They pick up 65hp just on timeing alone with the EZ Module........i know that is apples to oranges....but you get the point.

 

I guy I know that is a H/D mechanic told me the same thing. Glad he doesn't work on my truck. Search the 1st gen forums for old smokey pin.

http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/more_power/Power_ve.htm

You don't need a welder to grind a plate. Easy to do. Search on that as well for some pictures of different profiles. BUT make sure at the least you have a pyro.

A stock 12 valve will benefit from advancing the timing.

Couple of other links with good info

http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/more_power/power_p7100.htm

http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/FAQ/timing.htm

 

Hold on there everybody! I only referred to my truck not needing timing yet becaus i did not read correectly. Secondly i want to know to settle a bet. The kid told me he knew more then me about cummins just because he went to diesel school and i told him he didnt. And the only way i could get it accross what info i wanted was to fully explain i didnt want to spend money or i would have ppl coming back telling me to buy things and that would of course not tell me the info i wanted. And lastly Cheap i am not. Last time i looked i spent about almost 23000 on this truck by the time i pay it off. If i was cheap i would have bought my next door neighbor PSD for 3500. So ask questions before jumping to conclusions.

 

Dude...just working with the available info you gave us. You asked, and we told you some things you can do. You need to take these suggestions with a grain of salt and pick which ones work best for your situation. Don’t take everything personal. 90% of this site is drawing conclusions.....because, lets be honest here, We dont know you or your truck, and you dont know us. Aight? Cool! We didn’t mean to offend. We all have one common goal on this thread....more power!

Dan

 

So you want to get more power without spending a dime. Take out the stock plate and grind it into a "(" like the profile of a #10 plate.

If you are trying to settle a bet there is info in the first link of my first post is what you 'kid' is talking about. It is not applicable to the P7100.

Hope that helps.

 

No you don't have to weld the plate. If you had to weld the plate to get your desired profile throw it away cause ya screwed up and it's no good any more. Check my photo gallery

1) You can tighten up the gov. springs to get a few more r's out of it, I did no explosions yet, I think as I recall I went 1-1/4 turns or simply replace them with the 3k or 4k ones.

2) AFC springs, or as I've read "gut" the AFC I wouldn't but hey it's a mod

3) Jack up the timing

4) Adjust the gov. lever for better plate contact

5) Then of course the ol' plate & AFC hsg slide forward trick

6) Crank up the pre-boost "smoke screw"

These are what come to mind

 

"......pull the stock plate and fill with a welder and grind in a more agresive profile on the plate. "

Yes, you can just grind. BUT when compaired to TST, BullyDogs, and Peirs plates, they are longer at the base when compaired to stock. (i would assume that is for the less agresive profiles) I just felt that i would rather imulate a plate that is proven to work with out shelling the pump....due to my limited knowledge of the inners of the P7100.....and not to mention my limited budget......basicly, no one ever told me differant and results were positive.

 

No need to explain I understand and I'm not trying to attack anyone here as THAT IS NOT MY INTENTION but my iGnOrAnT mind says "if a zero works any profile works"

PS a stock plate has ample material to duplicate the length of a "factory" hot rod plate, just depends on what you're using for a stencil some of the plates I've ground have been longer and some shorter, I find the 96 and newer manual tranny plates have a little more meat on'em so the end result is a longer nose but then again it has to do with the stencil I made. My 100 plates tend not to be straight llike this " \ " but for lack of a better character on my keyboard like this " ( " crude idea I know but what I'm trying to emulate here is my plates are not a flat line on the fueling ramp but yet are more curved on the ramp check my gallery and you'll see what I mean

All of this is JMHO

Cheers,
northslope

 

Dan i was not jumping to conlclusions.And i know that im not the only person whos ever been frustrated because some people dont know what i mean because i could not articulate what i wanted well enough. After rewading what i said i realize how unclear i was.

 

I tick off folks all the time, don't mean to it's just the frame of mind when I'm typin, can come off real ****ish sometimes we're all human afterall

PS it takes 24 hours for the first Monday to end, more arguments happen on Mondays Get it