Symptoms after 4K GSK Install
Symptoms after 4K GSK Install
Hey All, I installed my 4kgsk this past weekend. I tried to measure stud protrustion, and came out with close to 50 thousandths on both sides. When pulling everything out, 2 shims came out from under the largest spring. I left them out, but put the large spring back in, along with my 3 new springs. I set the protrusion back to factory settings, and my idle was real low.......just over 500 rpm, whereas before installation, it was around 750 to 800, which is spec for my engine. I adjusted the rpm and now it wants to either high idle or else back down to the 5-600 rpm range. Also, in second gear going slow, it seems as though I have engine vibration....like loping. I used the search function and read every post regarding gsk installs and cannot make heads or tails as to what I need to do.......some say tighten nuts, others say loosen.......some say both. Anyway, any help is greatly appreciated.
Waylan
Waylan
Why did you remove the shims under the big spring? Says right in the instructions to leave big spring installed....that also means the shims underneath them. Only shims that get removed are the ones under the smaller springs. Put the big spring shims back in, that should solve your idle problems.
I tried to leave the big spring installed, but it stuck to my magnet and came out with the other springs. Then while I kept fishing, the shims came out as well. I adjusted the idle some at lunch today, and it seems better. It will be this weekend before I will have time to put the big shims back in. Thanks for the response.
Rick, you're gonna confuse the issue. The shims under the big spring stay in. Only pull out any shims that are under the 2 or 3 smaller springs.
The big spring controls idle, by removing the shims underneath it, you lessen the preload on it [assuming you're at the same stud protrusion as before] if you want, you can tighten the adjuster 1 click, on each side, that should get your preload back to spec's.
The big spring controls idle, by removing the shims underneath it, you lessen the preload on it [assuming you're at the same stud protrusion as before] if you want, you can tighten the adjuster 1 click, on each side, that should get your preload back to spec's.
fast 5.9
Read the instructions from PDR website! Piers cut his teeth on replacing governor springs! No confusion here..
http://www.piersdiesel.com/TechGSK12V.htm
Rick
Read the instructions from PDR website! Piers cut his teeth on replacing governor springs! No confusion here..
http://www.piersdiesel.com/TechGSK12V.htm
Rick
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I learned to do the springs from Piers himself while holding a flashlight to see down the throat of the pump! All done with a heavy duty telescoping magnet and a screwdrive that had been ground out to fit the slots in the retainer nut on the springs.
That was fun!
Rick
That was fun!
Rick
I took out all the shims and springs. I had a lope problem and it took about a year trying different clicks to get it right. I found that two clicks looser than stock works on all the trucks I have put a 4k kit on sofar. I measured mine when I put them in and it idled fine but after you got past 1k rpms it would jump to 1800. I loosend them all the way and just clicked them back in until I was happy with the way the truck ran.
DM01
DM01
Originally posted by rharveysr
fast 5.9
Read the instructions from PDR website! Piers cut his teeth on replacing governor springs! No confusion here..
http://www.piersdiesel.com/TechGSK12V.htm
Rick
fast 5.9
Read the instructions from PDR website! Piers cut his teeth on replacing governor springs! No confusion here..
http://www.piersdiesel.com/TechGSK12V.htm
Rick
3 years ago after reading the directions, I called Piers and he told me to leave shims under the large (idle) spring.
Fast forward to last month. JJW was working to cure an idle surge problem. He called Piers and asked if removing the shims would help. Piers said it would be worse. The problem was solved by loosening the springs 2 clicks.
Waylon;
Put the shims back under the large springs. Set the tension 2 clicks looser and try again. You want idle speed completely controlled by the idle screw. Throttle response should be very linear.
does someone have PICS of these springs?? 3k's vs 4k's vs stock??? i keep hearing about em but have never seen them...are the 3k's tighter than stock?? and the 4k's even tighter?? is that it?? or do u add more springs to add more resistance/tension?....could u create something similar at home with store bought springs?? or maybe if u have extra springs from another pump at the wreckers??
educate me
Andrew
educate me
Andrew
Here are some pics that may help.
3K GSK
And another thread. https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...threadid=57453
Also see my gallery pic.
I also pulled all the shims per instructions. Piers said no problem as long as it runs ok. He said "No need to add the shims under the large spring" The trucks idle was too low after installing the kit. I went back in a tightened the keepers TWO clicks. PERFECT. Hope this helps.
3K GSK
And another thread. https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...threadid=57453
Also see my gallery pic.
I also pulled all the shims per instructions. Piers said no problem as long as it runs ok. He said "No need to add the shims under the large spring" The trucks idle was too low after installing the kit. I went back in a tightened the keepers TWO clicks. PERFECT. Hope this helps.
so basically the kit is changing the "inner" springs to springs with a bit more tension? so the governor takes longer to reach cutoff sortaspeak than before right?....so u could infact make a 5k GSK or 3.5 k GSK by playin with different tension springs huh


