Since Piers is closed today I just wanted to make sure.
3 inner springs come out and two go in right?

Thanks

 

Everything comes out except the biggest outer spring,leave it in the whole time.Stack half the springs that came in your kit on one of the new lower retainers and slide them all in one piece into the big spring you left in there and over the shaft ,then replace the upper retainer and nut.I have a thread in the performance forum here on doing a 4gsk there are some good tips in it.

 

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...threadid=57038

 

thanks

 

How does the 3k kit do with a stock plate? I know most run a plate, and a bost elbow. Is it a bad idea with a stock plate (moved foreward some). Thanks, Kevin

 

I don't know about the stock plate but I put a #10 in with my gsk and all I can say is !!WOW!!

 

Today is Boxing Day Holiday for Canadian (Piers) or Canadian based business (me).

Yes, on a GSK installation you remove 3 of 4 springs plus the shims and spring seats (2 pieces) under the inner springs.
The shims and washers under the largest spring remain. A magnet to retrieve the hardware is really nice after pulling the nut and top washer.
After many GSK installations, I have seen a lot of variation from none to multiple shims under the inner springs.
For a 3k GSK you add the Piers spring seat plus 2 springs.
For a 4k GSK you add the Piers spring seat plus 3 springs.
(Yes, the smallest spring is the 4k.)

Really well. The driveability is much better.
Really bad . Peak horsepower changes.

Kevin;
I have the same basic truck & Cummins as you.
My peak horsepower jumped to 2,700 rpm with 3k GSK and then to 3,200 rpm with 17° timing.
The good news is the stock trany & torque converter accepted the change.
I went to a #4 plate which compliments a GSK and puts peak hp back to around 2,200 rpm, but the added power blew the stock converter and I roasted my lock-up clutch.

 

Here are some pics that may help.

3K GSK

 

Hey guys, thanks for the info regarding stock plate. Yes, I am gonna get the 10 plate, just everytime I think I have the extra cash, the wife comes up with something original to spend it on.

The latest is her method of externally oil cooling her car! A chunk of ice "jumped in her way" and punched a hole in the oil pan. 160 bones for the stock cast aluminum pan, 40 for oil and shop supplies to change it out, and 100 for a lower valence.

Hmmm, the exact same price as a plate. Like I said, hmmm. I getting mad again!

Last month when I went to change the oil, I find all this deer hair stuck to the under carriage. I asked her about it and she said "oh yeah I forgot too tell you, I ran over a dead deer". My answer to that was, "I can understand forgetting about running over a squirrel or a possum, but not a deer!"

Can't live with em, and ya can't run em thru a wood chipper either. There I feel better now!

Trying to nurse the tranny as well. When you say raises the peak horsepower, the reason I'm getting the GSK is so I have some oomph when getting on the freeway towing my 5'er. With the stock setup, it defuels right when I'm at about 55mph still in 3rd. The engine just won't give me any more till I get to od/lockup. I'm hoping the GSK will help with this? Thanks, Kevin

 

You will like the 3K GSK read the posts everybody likes them and the autos are better cause the line pressure is higher with the higher RPMs I am guessing MPGs will drop as a result of hot footing it though. All said and done definitely worth it.

 

I have a fuel plate, but man what a difference after the 3k GSK!! It will GO now Definatley an awesome mod. My truck was like yours before. 60mph was about all i could do with a load in 3rd gear. 63mph was tops without a load, now it will pull right up to 80mph which is 3k rpm's and on the redline Im sure it will do better pulling a load to, just havent tried it yet. Get one!

Eric

 

Anybody put a 3k kit in with a #6 plate from tst. The guys at tst said it dont work well and to put in a #4. why?

 

Dalee: I have the #5, and the reason they say it doesent work well i think is because it fuels to hard on top and causes high EGT's. Thats iskinda what my #5 does anyway. 1450 degree EGT's are pretty easy. Before the GSK 1200 degrees was hard. Also, how do you like your TCI converter and where did you get it from? Jegs sells them,a nd ive been thinking about getting one. Does it hold better than the stock one? How is the stall speed? Thanks

Eric

 

Thanks 635, To answer your questin the stall on the tci with my setup and 22000lbs is about 2k floored lockup is tight and now NO slip at all,infact its so tight if your not carefull with load you will bark the turbo. For the price through jegs a great converter. Call tci and get there HD unit # with heaver parts they call it there moterhome unit for about $425. And A Questin for you is if I dont run my moter long above that 2100 but use that 3k kit to help my auto shift cleaner and not lag at the top of gears do you think I will still have problems?

 

The only time I have problems with EGT's is when i mash it, and the stock converter lets it go to about 2700RPM's. Also when im pulling, i cant mash it and keep it there either or they will get out of hand. But, it might be alright since your converter stalls so much lower than the stock one, and doesent pull to 3k RPM's. I can use most of my pedal, and not really have problems. Its just when i bury the pedal completley into the mat, that EGT's get out of hand . I think you would be ok EGT wise with one, but the only true way to find out would probably be to try one. Thanks for the info on the converter. Jegs also sells one with a billet cover. Maybe thats the heavy duty one? Its $475. Im thinking about getting on, but i dont know. How many miles do you have on your converter? thanks

Eric