I finally got my hands on some H2 take offs. And what wonderfull news. With my 2" lift they wont fit. So it looks like im going to be forced to spend more money and go up higher. I was considering a skyjacker because everyone seems to have them but I ran across fabtech 5.5" and a dick cepek 6". The fabtech and cepek lifts use the "long arm" control links that mount back on the frame. I hear that designe is better for some reaosn. I was able to find them all for around the same price. Does anyone have any experance or horror stories with any of thies lifts? Any opinions of any kind would be nice.
Thanks all
Chris

 

Had Fabtech 5.5 performance Dual shock with rear block installed about a month ago. Truck rides smoother and noise level has decreased. Have a little shudder on accelleration. Thought it might be axle wrap so i installed ladder bars, did not solve problem. Truck going into Unitrax for driveline check on Monday. Unitrax said it could be angles or driveline length.

 

Let me know how it turns out. I know my dad's bds rides like it has no suspension at all. Hes afraid stuff is going to start breaking becaues it vibrates so much and hits so hard.

 

http://performancelifts.com/cgi-bin/cart/20-2005.html theres the link to the cepek one. I heard that that style of long arm links was a good setup. Its an afully big lift though. I question the angle on the drive shafts and there longevitiy. I really love romping in the snow in 4wheel drive and im sure I'm not as nice to my 4wheel drive train as I could be. What do you guys think? or should I stick with a skyjacker or fabtech or some other brand.

 

No problems with my SkyJacker. If you're not rock crawling the thing, some of the others are overkill. Click sig...

 

I found the directions for the dick cepek lift. Besides being what I think is to high it requires a 3" hole saw to cut a huge peice out of the frame.. I dont like that. I'll pribably end up with the skyjacker. I dont think that requires any drilling/cutting (except for the lower trac bar bracket witch i dont need) and i've heard very few horror storys about it.

 

I found the directions for the dick cepek lift. Besides being what I think is to high it requires a 3" hole saw to cut a huge peice out of the frame.. I dont like that. I'll pribably end up with the skyjacker. I dont think that requires any drilling/cutting (except for the lower trac bar bracket witch i dont need) and i've heard very few horror storys about it.

 

You dont have to drill the frame, u need to notch the cab mounts.......In which they give you reinforcement brkts to bolt inside the cab mounts to keep the integrity....Its a sweet lift....But there are tons of other ways to get lift.......The DC kit has its own problems.....really the only good from it is the Long arm setup....Most guys use SJ parts with that kit....

Do yourself a favor.........Just order a 3" Perfromance ACC body lift and be done...... For around 250.00 with the the rear bumper brkt kit youll have a cheap 3" lift...

They dont sell for a CTD but just order for your year 2500 and all u need to do is cut 1.5" off each end of the upper innercooler tube. Slide the boot down over the 2nd rib and be done with it....

Works sweet and looks great........Super easy to do.

Good luck

 

Thanks for the info z1bigtom, I was looking for something so I could fit my 35s nicely, I wanted just a body lift, but I couldnt find anything for the diesel, they all said except for diesel. I will be ordering that lift probably. Do you think I could 37s with that 3 inch lift, I found a really nice set of 37 inch Goodyears that are an on road type tire for $50 a tire and they have 75% tread left. They have a 16.5 inch rim I guess. Anyways, will they fit with the 3 inch lift, and also will they run nice with my 3:54 gears?

 

diesel-kid.......... to be honest i'd have to say.....NO!

I have 6" and i'm runnin 35's.........It's not the problem when the wheels are straight, its when u turn and compress the suspension.

I know u can fit 315's with a 2" coil spacer on a 8" wide wheel....With a 10" wheel like mine u need more lift....

You might get away with 37 x 12.50 on a 8" wheel with 6" but if u wheel it hard its def gonna rub.....

i have 3.54's and i havent noticed any diff in performance but i have the comp box so its fine....

37's i dont know............

 

Its offical I have to do something. Finally got around to hacking up my h2 take offs and no deal. They wont fit with 2inch spacers. I get around half a turn and they rub all over the place. and thats with tires worn 1/8" allready. I'm not even sure I can run 33's I'm going to try a set of those with about 6000miles on them. see how they turn. Kinda crappy. I was hopeing it would all work out for once so I wouldnt have to do anything/spend any extra. I should have known when the hacking only took 6hours to do a wheel

 

Hmmm, lots to think about. I think I will just got with the 3" body lift and 35s. As many of you guys are running them and they look really good too. Is a body lift very hard to put in. Also bigtom, can you go more into detail as what you were talking about cutting the intercooler tube to make this body lift fit. Thanks

-Jared

 

My roommate is running 16x10's with 35's and a 4.5 inch skyjacker kit on his and he has minimal rub at full turn and full compression. When I say minimal, I mean it is very hard to notice. Only way we knew he was rubbing was when we saw the paint scraped off the lower control arm.

 

Say no to body lifts.....

I ran the 4.5" SJ lift, 35x12.5 tires, and wheels with 4.5" of backspacing with only a slight passenger rub in a hard locked right hand turn. This was all on my 99.

Matt

 

Ditto, except my tires are 35x11.5


phox