To anyone who wants to do this mod to an auto truck be EXTREMLY cautious as you can collapse the column itself when trying to seat in the bushing.

To be fair there is a warning of just such an occurance in the instructions but that's what happens when you don't read everything before you start. I had to get a new column due to my failure to pay attention to detail, lesson learned.

If I had to do this again I would not pull the column, it is a very simple install, just remember the steering shaft cannot be too clean or lubed to help the install of the bushing.

 

OK.....what years does this affect? ( I know...read at the top of the thread!) Auto and Manual? I just dont want to waste my time makeing one if it aint going to work for my truck and some others in Houston! haha....

 

I don't know the specific years but I think they are listed here. You can also do a search because this has been discussed several times and maybe you can find different info.


http://www.rocksolidramtrucksteering.com/

 

Yeah....i found it. BUT to bring it out in the open:

ALL 2nd gen trucks

Auto or Manual.

 

What do y'all think about a hose clamp on the shaft right under the bushing to keep it from sliding down?

 

I dont see any issues with it........BUT i have yet to install mine....will be here today or tom when i do it....ill see about getting some pics if my wife remembers to leave the camera for me!

 

I don't see how its possible for the bushing to "fall out"; there is an included locking tang that is supplied with the kit. It prevents just that.

 

Mine didn't come with a "locking tang", I just used a zip tie. If you use a hose clamp be careful not to put it right up against the bushing because the hose clamp will turn with the shaft and the bushing stays still.

 

Must be something else going on, here - my (and I'm several digits away from the original owner) '96 3500 manual has 210,000 miles on original steering column with no slop\play between the shaft and bushing\housing.

The rubber-isolated intermediate shaft has some wear at the upper insulator assembly, but not noticeable with the stock 2.15-16 Michelins - it's only evident when the shaft is grabbed and rocked\twisted.

Is this bushing failure maybe from the extra action required in the column shifter for the automatic trans versions - or\and running oversized tires - or\and jacked suspension?

The article clearly shows the automatic column shift lever\shaft with a replacement bushing.

 

FYI if your trying to make your own of these, the automatic trucks have a different sized neck than the manuals due to the shifter linkage. We found that out the hard way on my truck after we removed the spring and old bearing. We used the above specs and it worked great in the manual trucks but the auto's are different. So we had to go and beat the stock bearing back in place after pulling the column and put a tack weld on it to keep it in place until I can get a new bushing.

 

Got any dimensions? I'd like to make one myself.

Thanks

Doug

 

Towards the bottom of the first page there are dimensions but they won't fit an automatic. At least not mine. My buddy is going to measure it at the shop and get the dimensions for an auto. After looking at my old bearing I have no doubt that this bushing won't help. My bearing has a TON of slop in it.

 

So im guessing you made it home ok then.....yesterday morn was not a good morn....

When i find the spec for the autos....ill throw them on here.

 

For those with an auto, use alot of care when installing the bushing into the column. A couple guys on TDR sheared a rivet or something by pounding too hard while installing the bushing, and this caused the shift column not to work properly. Also, if the bushing on the auto is too tight, the friction can cause the truck to shift ranges when you turn.

Waylan

 

Im guessing you are talking about the plastic rivet they put in the colapable column? Yeah...i broke mine....but this was due to the shaft spec on my bushing being less than 1". The bushing got stuck on the shaft....and the column had to be pulled to remove the bushing. When pounding on mine...i noted when the thing broke. Thing is, just dont pound on the shaft going into the column. That is the only way you can brake the rivet. The bushing should not drag at all on the shaft. If it does...you spec is too small.....

As long as you have no drag on your steering shaft to bushing, I dont see this being much of an issue. And my truck is just fine with that rivet broken. Just make sure the ID spec is 1" or just a smidge bigger....then hit it with some Scotch brite and smooth the crap out of it......get ANY grease and grime off the column shaft anyway you can. The cleaner the better......